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Old 05-22-2012, 04:18 PM   #6151
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This may be a dumb question but has anyone tried using Associated Front wheels?? I have a ton of Fr.Wheels for my B4.1's and i would love to find some bearings that would let me run them on my 210.. Any suggestions?? Thanks
Yep same tresrey axles. I have a lot of cougar wheels which I reuse on my rango too!
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Old 05-22-2012, 06:23 PM   #6152
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Thanks guys .. just ordered a set...
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Old 05-22-2012, 06:52 PM   #6153
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Yep same tresrey axles. I have a lot of cougar wheels which I reuse on my rango too!
The offset is correct?
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Old 05-22-2012, 06:57 PM   #6154
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The offset is correct?
The fronts are perfect. Great job by tresrey. Can buy local sourced wheels to support my track .

The rears I used dex410 v1 type orange wheel cones. The rim offset on that is off by 2 mm. So the axle sticks out just a wee bit.

The track width is about same since the rear b4/schumacher wheels are concave. If I am not feeling lazy, one day, I will build up my spare car with the cougar wheels to compare
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Old 05-22-2012, 07:30 PM   #6155
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Hey, Gents.

I just bought a dex210 (off tech.net) and it will be coming assembled as mid motor (not sure how many gears).

Since it's arriving mid motor I'd like to try a mid motor setup for a clay track; specifically WCRC in Southern California.

Can anyone suggest a good starting point?

The track is clay, and typical in size for indoor. I thought mid motor may be interesting to try because I find that more steering and quicker response would be better than say a little more top speed.

I'm hoping that the mid motor balance will put the front wheels down on the ground where they can steer a little quicker than if the weight is on the rear.

Thanks.
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Old 05-22-2012, 08:24 PM   #6156
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Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
The fronts are perfect. Great job by tresrey. Can buy local sourced wheels to support my track .

The rears I used dex410 v1 type orange wheel cones. The rim offset on that is off by 2 mm. So the axle sticks out just a wee bit.

The track width is about same since the rear b4/schumacher wheels are concave. If I am not feeling lazy, one day, I will build up my spare car with the cougar wheels to compare
I was going to start using the AVID rear rims for the B4/22 and then use the AVID SC10 hex. This combo gave the perfect offset vs using the B4 hex (too narrow). Team this with the AE yellow rims and Tresrey axles. Hopefully a hex conversion from TD comes out soon. The TD rims are not the most true and round rims. roll some rims across a table, looks like they belong on a clown car.
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Old 05-22-2012, 08:36 PM   #6157
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I was going to start using the AVID rear rims for the B4/22 and then use the AVID SC10 hex. This combo gave the perfect offset vs using the B4 hex (too narrow). Team this with the AE yellow rims and Tresrey axles. Hopefully a hex conversion from TD comes out soon. The TD rims are not the most true and round rims. roll some rims across a table, looks like they belong on a clown car.
AGREED!!! I thought I was the only one with bad TD wheels hehehe. I dyed 2 rear sets to rit black and one set had huge imperfections. For the life of me I cannot remember whether it was before boiling or after and I assumed the heat warped it (which still might be the case ).

I am hoping the new SC and ST will bring in front hubs with floating axles which we can port to the buggy (assuming hubs are same sized). Randy has said already in the SC/ST thread that both 2wd would have hexes .
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Old 05-22-2012, 08:52 PM   #6158
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I just installed the titanium shock mounts for the rear. It replaces the plastic one. After installing the titanium ones I realized that there is nothing to mount along with the top of the shock/shock cap to the mount. There is way too much play.

What have you used ?
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Old 05-22-2012, 10:07 PM   #6159
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I just installed the titanium shock mounts for the rear. It replaces the plastic one. After installing the titanium ones I realized that there is nothing to mount along with the top of the shock/shock cap to the mount. There is way too much play.

What have you used ?
You have to use the type d pillow balls. Its says so in the lunsford kit I bought.
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Old 05-22-2012, 10:21 PM   #6160
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You have to use the type d pillow balls. Its says so in the lunsford kit I bought.
Which are out of stock everywhere I have looked. Early June being the timeframe for them to get restocked. The plastic ones work fine for right now so I can hold off.
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Old 05-22-2012, 10:28 PM   #6161
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Originally Posted by Woulvesbaine View Post
Hey, Gents.

I just bought a dex210 (off tech.net) and it will be coming assembled as mid motor (not sure how many gears).

Since it's arriving mid motor I'd like to try a mid motor setup for a clay track; specifically WCRC in Southern California.

Can anyone suggest a good starting point?

The track is clay, and typical in size for indoor. I thought mid motor may be interesting to try because I find that more steering and quicker response would be better than say a little more top speed.

I'm hoping that the mid motor balance will put the front wheels down on the ground where they can steer a little quicker than if the weight is on the rear.

Thanks.
Your going to have to throw alot of weight on the rear end of the car to keep it from stepping out in the turns. I would honestly put it back in rear motor config. Its not really worth all the time and effort to get a mid motor car working on a track it's not designed for. A very good buddy of mine is working on a mid-motor setup and he's almost got it perfected, but he has alot of aftermarkert stuff on the car. In my old Schumacher days when I ran the Cougar at the beginning of the day when the track (WCRC) was wet I had good enough traction to get around without too much stepping out, after it dried a bit, I had no rear traction at all. Schueys and rangos in mid motor will excel on blue groove tracks here like Hot Rod Hobbies once the groove has formed. As I said in another post before Losi has basically given up on the 22 in mid motor (more of a gimick, then an actual mid motor car), everyone here who runs on clay runs rear motor. Im not trying to discourage you, by all means go for it if you want, just be prepared, as the track changes so will the stability of the car immensly.
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Old 05-22-2012, 11:46 PM   #6162
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So today was a super bad day I got all of my electronics in and as I started breaking in the diff I noticed a super bad vibration I checked everything atleast 2 times and I still have no idea on what it is....anyone have any ideas on what it could be?? I'm running the rear motor setup if that helps
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Old 05-23-2012, 05:03 AM   #6163
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Originally Posted by Doitinthedirt View Post
So today was a super bad day I got all of my electronics in and as I started breaking in the diff I noticed a super bad vibration I checked everything atleast 2 times and I still have no idea on what it is....anyone have any ideas on what it could be?? I'm running the rear motor setup if that helps

I'm guessing your tires are balanced so try and raise the arms to level while testing the motor. The extreme rear droop and cvd angle can cause this. Also check that the cvds are not binding at the axle.
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Old 05-23-2012, 05:35 AM   #6164
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So today was a super bad day I got all of my electronics in and as I started breaking in the diff I noticed a super bad vibration I checked everything atleast 2 times and I still have no idea on what it is....anyone have any ideas on what it could be?? I'm running the rear motor setup if that helps
Vibrations from where? Did you remove the wheels and recheck? Did you.compress the suspension by hand and recheck?
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Old 05-23-2012, 05:43 AM   #6165
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I'm guessing your tires are balanced so try and raise the arms to level while testing the motor. The extreme rear droop and cvd angle can cause this. Also check that the cvds are not binding at the axle.
....I'll double check the rear droop I had it on my stand while I was breaking the diff so that might be a good possibility
About the droop/angle....and both tires are good/balanced
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