jpcopeland1

iTrader: (166)

Not crashing is easy, just drive slow

Jonny5

iTrader: (19)

More red sexiness from Tresrey: http://tresreyusa.blogspot.com/2012/...shing.html?m=1

jpcopeland1

iTrader: (166)

Inserts. Standard foams cut down for the front? Or closed cell?

aloksatoor

iTrader: (43)

haha now that is just a waste of money :P how can that part ever wear out. Buy a good servo and be done with it!!

magoo_lc1

iTrader: (5)

Im getting back into the hobby after 15+ years away. I was going to buy an associated but i like the looks of this and the cougar sv2. I know schumacher has been around a long time but if i buy a durango how long have they been in business? I dont want to buy a car and then i cant get parts. I wont have 10 cars like some of you my wife will not like that alot...lol. I like being a bit diffrent and the quality of these 2 intrigues me. There is no dealer that i can find near me here in st louis. Is it hard to get parts? If so what should i buy in advance to have on hand? Im guessing a-arms and other suspension parts. Anything else? If you have or have ran both cars id really love to hear how they compare. Thank you.

jpcopeland1

iTrader: (166)

I had a Schumacher Cougar SV. Could not get mid motor to work unless I was on a high bite blue groove track. As far as spares, towers (unless you go the Tresrey route and get carbon fibre towers), Ball cups in case you pop one off, Upgraded Ackerman link (a few different companies make aftermarker parts like Tresrey, FTW, etc...) Mine has been rock solid out of the box, only thing I changed was ackerman plate and I have taken some nasty tumbles that would have broken any other car. Got landed on my an 8th scale car trying to quad a set of doubles was going very fast and got mega air, no problem. The car in stock form is very tough. I would also HIGHLY recommend you get a b-fast diff kit for it, the stock steel balls will fry on you if you dont watch out for how tight your diff is. Car likes a tight diff.

jpcopeland1

iTrader: (166)

Kinda have to agree with aloksatoor ( as much as I hate to do it ). Just seems like Bling or Blings sake.

dirtydan

iTrader: (47)

+1

Jonny5

iTrader: (19)

No worries on the parts availability since Hobbico purchased the company. If your local shop doesn't carry Durango you can get everything at Tower and have it in 1-2 days to St Louis. Must haves are the ackerman plate and RF hinge pin holder, but those coupled with carbon towers make it almost bulletproof. A-arms are always nice to have, but it takes a pretty gnarly wreck to break them- probably among the toughest of all buggy arms.

Dog Runner

iTrader: (23)

Had the Cougar SV a long time ago. The Durango 210 is hands down the better and more durable car.

Woulvesbaine

iTrader: (12)

What about the Durango in mid motor? My local track (WCRC) is clay and a bit tight. I have often thought that a mid motor would have a bit more stearing and would calm down sooner permitting quicker turning.

Thoughts?

aloksatoor

iTrader: (43)

Agreed on the durability. The rango's front end is a 1/9th scale car instead of 1/10!! The way it handles bad driving (by me) is amazing.

I was replacing cougar arms almost every race weeked with a mod motor (that car is now retired to 17.5 blinky duty if enough ppl show up at my track to run that class!!). In 3 months with around 10 race/practice days, I have broken one rear arm while testing a brand new 6.5 crashing sideways.

With regards to handling, I still like the cougar better (have never run the rango in mid motor). Parts quality and fit and finish on the cougar is still better than the rango and if you plan to run ONLY indoors on super high bite tracks as jp had mentioned then this car is good.

As an all rounder (with hopefully LHS support soon) I would go with the rango 9 times outa 10

magoo_lc1

iTrader: (5)

Im guessing you mean get the durango from this its a bit hard to tell because i dont know all the lingo yet...lol. I love the look of the durango

jpcopeland1

iTrader: (166)

I ran a Cougar at WCRC. When the track was wet and traction was up , the car was good, when the track dried out and traction went away so did the car. Outdoor blue groove, and indoor carpet, astroturf, is what the car was designed to be run on, and that is where it excels. Any other condition and mid-motor is pretty much useless due to the rear end stepping out on you under accelleration exiting turns. They jump better, and turn better, But I have yet to see a mid-motor configuration that works on clay tracks due to the unstableness of the surface it's self. Hell even Losi gave up on trying to get the 22 to work on clay in mid motor.

zylstra

ya the durango is tuff havent broken a thing yet but pop ball cups off put the b-fast diff in but the carbon thrust balls and washers must be shorter cant get it to tighen up.or the circle clip is bent only have one. anybody tell me whats up with that.do i have to use the original washers?