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Old 05-07-2012, 02:14 PM   #5806
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How can you tell when the pads are beyond the point of rescue?
When you tighten the nut all the way and it is still slipping. Mine did same thing twice. just use the AE pads, they work good and are readily available.
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Old 05-07-2012, 02:24 PM   #5807
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I'm almost done building my DEX210 and was wondering if anyone had advice setting up the front camber... This is always the part of the build that I struggle with. This buggy is different than my RB5 since the turnbuckles slant downwards... i'm also not using the stock turnbuckles... I had a brand new set of Lunsford ones for my Kyosho and they match perfectly to the diagram in the instructions (with the ball cups on). The measurements for the Lunsford's is 1 1/2" (Punisher Titanium Turnbuckles (Steering, Front & Rear Camber) for all 6).
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Old 05-07-2012, 02:50 PM   #5808
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When you tighten the nut all the way and it is still slipping. Mine did same thing twice. just use the AE pads, they work good and are readily available.

Garodisc are readily available and work much better than the AE ones! they never fade or wear out
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Old 05-07-2012, 04:36 PM   #5809
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I just got the bfast pro diff build kit. Am I supposed to use the stock thrust races? My BFast came with two flat washers with the ceramic thrust balls. What purpose do they serve? Are they to be used instead of the normal races?
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Old 05-07-2012, 05:04 PM   #5810
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The 56 pistons I drilled have a little smaller holes than the ones you glue so thats why I had to run 22.5 but the smaller holes and lighter oil gives the car more pack which helps with it bottoming out but not make the shocks feel sluggish like a heavier oil. I tried the yellows in the rear but with the shorty pack mounted all the way forward I liked the whites better but either should get you close just depends on track layout and traction.
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Old 05-07-2012, 05:12 PM   #5811
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Yes you don't need the "race" to keep the balls riding on the thrust washers.
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Old 05-07-2012, 07:50 PM   #5812
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Thanks I just assembled the bfast ... fricking thing feels like a ball bearing with the diff action.... broke it in and its butter!!!
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Old 05-07-2012, 07:59 PM   #5813
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Im running 9.5 reedy and have an 87 spur, any idea where I should start with pinion?

Last edited by meddman; 05-07-2012 at 08:16 PM. Reason: Edit
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Old 05-07-2012, 08:47 PM   #5814
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Im running 9.5 reedy and have an 87 spur, any idea where I should start with pinion?
I tried an 87/18 the largest that would fit, and I was slower then stock with an 8.5. I bought and reemed out an AE 81 tooth spur and used a 26 tooth pinion. Im at the same speed as the really fast mod guys. Motor stays very cool as well (Reedy Sonic). You would need some boost to get it to go fast enough to get any decent speed out of it. Try the RW spur gears, quiet and truer then most spurs.
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Old 05-07-2012, 08:50 PM   #5815
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Originally Posted by Jeremy Blair View Post
The 56 pistons I drilled have a little smaller holes than the ones you glue so thats why I had to run 22.5 but the smaller holes and lighter oil gives the car more pack which helps with it bottoming out but not make the shocks feel sluggish like a heavier oil. I tried the yellows in the rear but with the shorty pack mounted all the way forward I liked the whites better but either should get you close just depends on track layout and traction.
The track im current focusing on is medium bite clay with no real slingshot jumps, but very technical.
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Old 05-07-2012, 10:58 PM   #5816
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Originally Posted by meddman View Post
Im running 9.5 reedy and have an 87 spur, any idea where I should start with pinion?
I run 83/25 with 8.5(reedy sonnic, 40 timing and medium boost via sxx) and do 25 minute runs and motor/esc come off under 110f. LIke suggested above ream out an AE gear or purchase an rw racing gear you would like to run be it 81 or 83.
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Old 05-08-2012, 06:22 AM   #5817
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Hey fellas, do you have any tips on how to properly use a soldering iron to seal/melt shock piston holes?
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Old 05-08-2012, 06:58 AM   #5818
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Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
Might sound funny but you sure the diff is not slipping? Did that to my last diff rebuild kit from bfast today!!
Hope not, as I'm on the geardiff... Thanks though!
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Old 05-08-2012, 11:15 AM   #5819
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Hope not, as I'm on the geardiff... Thanks though!
i wanted to try out the gear diff but super happy with the bfast upgrade on the regular ball so will see. If it lasts me a month then no gear diff
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Old 05-08-2012, 12:10 PM   #5820
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Originally Posted by LoudOne View Post
I'm almost done building my DEX210 and was wondering if anyone had advice setting up the front camber... This is always the part of the build that I struggle with. This buggy is different than my RB5 since the turnbuckles slant downwards... i'm also not using the stock turnbuckles... I had a brand new set of Lunsford ones for my Kyosho and they match perfectly to the diagram in the instructions (with the ball cups on). The measurements for the Lunsford's is 1 1/2" (Punisher Titanium Turnbuckles (Steering, Front & Rear Camber) for all 6).
Do you mean how to actually adjust it, or what camber setting to start with? Make sure to grease the threads before assembly for smoother adjusting, I like to run the turnbuckle in and out a few times with a drill prior to final assembly.

I would start at 1 degree all around. To set front camber/toe I always turn the car on with the rack centered and start from there- makes life much easier.
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