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Old 05-05-2012, 11:20 PM   #5776
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Originally Posted by BOLISARIO View Post
Yeah keep us posted. I just ordered my 210 kit today and can't wait to hit up the local So Cal tracks with a good baseline setup.
Front: Light Red springs 30 weight Losi oil, 30 degrees caster, 4X1.3mm pistons.

Back: Dark Blue 30 weight, 3 degrees anti-squat 3 degree toe, 4X1.3mm pistons.

Speed control was changed today to add a bit more drag break. Went from 5% to 10% on Orion R10Pro. Car handles really nice, gobs of rear traction, and humongous amounts of steering. No weight added anywhere.

Short Lipo is a must. I wouldnt even bother with a full stick pack. I am thinking of going back to the stock o-rings instead of the Kyosho rings I have in there now. They are ever so slightly leaking, after 3 long 6-7 hour practice days getting about 7 full packs in a day they need to be topped off. Would just preffer they not leak at all if thats possible

I've owned pretty much every car you can buy save an X60 conversion and this car is hands down the best I have ever driven (I thought my old RB5 with big bores, would be heard to beat, as well as the turning of my former car B4.1 with extended chassis) This car has both suspension and stability of an RB5 with the steering of a B4.1 (I wont even talk about Losi, that 22 lasted 1 day for me, Junk, pure junk!). It could use a longer chassis, but it's not a deal breaker for me. It's fun to see the AE and Losi guys comment on the car saying it looks really good out there. You'd think they lived under their respective rocks not knowing there is a good 3th buggy out there (Kyosho is out since we see maybe one or two, 3 if we are very lucky at OC/RC).
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Old 05-05-2012, 11:33 PM   #5777
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How about the rear camber link mounts, has anyone found an alternative or fix for the broken mounts? I know RC Shox has a temporary fix, but is there a mount that completely replaces the stock mounts so you don't have to go through the hassle of changing gearboxes?
I had an 8th scale land right on top of my going full speed and with alot of height. Nothing happened to my car. Im beginning to think that the durablility issue of the car is alot more driver related then it is car related. I have everything box stock except the ackerman plate which needed to be replaced because I forgot to put in a washer and it chewed it up. Other then that, no breaks, had one ballstud pop off, Thats all, and I have taken some pretty hardcore tumblers with it, cased some pretty big jumps when I got off my line. The car is just as durable as a B4 without the slop.
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Old 05-05-2012, 11:33 PM   #5778
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Short Lipo is a must. I wouldnt even bother with a full stick pack.
.
What do you like better about the shorty pack?
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Old 05-05-2012, 11:37 PM   #5779
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5 guys, I am coming too.....
That was fun, need to do it again sometime. And hit me back about the Losi spring setup you were using. I LOVE the way my car is now, but if a set of springs will make it just that much better, it's worth the $6.00 investment.
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Old 05-05-2012, 11:39 PM   #5780
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What do you like better about the shorty pack?
Ability to change the weight distribution of the car, can run it fully forward against the servo if you need more weight up front, or all the way back for mid-motor. With Long packs your pretty much stuck (change shift them around a little bit, but not to the degree you can with a shorty). It's a tuning option, but one that the guys I run with all agree is a must. Rear or Mid config. The weight savings is also a big deal. The car is on the heavy side, with the short pack and my setup, it's much more nimble without sacrificing rear traction or steering.
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Old 05-06-2012, 09:58 PM   #5781
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1 View Post
I had an 8th scale land right on top of my going full speed and with alot of height. Nothing happened to my car. Im beginning to think that the durablility issue of the car is alot more driver related then it is car related. I have everything box stock except the ackerman plate which needed to be replaced because I forgot to put in a washer and it chewed it up. Other then that, no breaks, had one ballstud pop off, Thats all, and I have taken some pretty hardcore tumblers with it, cased some pretty big jumps when I got off my line. The car is just as durable as a B4 without the slop.
I would agree with this. I have not broken anything that would not have broken on any other car. Mainly a tower that snapped after casing a large triple going very fast and on clay surface. I seen several other towers snap on the same are. This car is very stout.


And about the shorties. I would agree their just a great tuning option. I do not have any shorties yet but the next packs I purchase will be shorties. The lower Mah wont be an issue what so ever since I get 28 minute run times with my Protek 5000mah packs lol before it hits cutoff.
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Old 05-06-2012, 10:21 PM   #5782
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@jp couldn't run my mmm mod motor this weekend no racing. My local track had power issues Will try to get some practise time this week though!!
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Old 05-06-2012, 10:25 PM   #5783
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I would agree with this. I have not broken anything that would not have broken on any other car. Mainly a tower that snapped after casing a large triple going very fast and on clay surface. I seen several other towers snap on the same are. This car is very stout.


And about the shorties. I would agree their just a great tuning option. I do not have any shorties yet but the next packs I purchase will be shorties. The lower Mah wont be an issue what so ever since I get 28 minute run times with my Protek 5000mah packs lol before it hits cutoff.
I have a Losi shorty that I can get about 15 minutes out of before lipo cutoff hits, and that is with the speed controls lipo cutoff at 3.2 per cell.
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Old 05-06-2012, 10:26 PM   #5784
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@jp couldn't run my mmm mod motor this weekend no racing. My local track had power issues Will try to get some practise time this week though!!
I plan on going to OC/RC tomorrow to see if I can get a good clay setup with a full length pack. It was pretty dialed before I went to the shorty, Just want to have another option.
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Old 05-06-2012, 10:40 PM   #5785
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I plan on going to OC/RC tomorrow to see if I can get a good clay setup with a full length pack. It was pretty dialed before I went to the shorty, Just want to have another option.
I have a pair of really light 3300 nanotech soft full length packs which are around 18 mm high. My club doesn't enforce roar much. They offer amazing punch compared to even a protek 70c shorty. Thats my plan of action next . Have increased the anti squat to 2.0 with the tresrey bits for more on power.
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Old 05-06-2012, 11:17 PM   #5786
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I have a pair of really light 3300 nanotech soft full length packs which are around 18 mm high. My club doesn't enforce roar much. They offer amazing punch compared to even a protek 70c shorty. Thats my plan of action next . Have increased the anti squat to 2.0 with the tresrey bits for more on power.
Thats my next plan of attack too is to play with anti-dquat using washers, figure a 1/2mm washer and 1.5 degree block will give me two degrees. Looking for a happy medium between 1.5mm and 3degrees, maybe 2.5mm might be my best bet.
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Old 05-06-2012, 11:38 PM   #5787
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Thats my next plan of attack too is to play with anti-dquat using washers, figure a 1/2mm washer and 1.5 degree block will give me two degrees. Looking for a happy medium between 1.5mm and 3degrees, maybe 2.5mm might be my best bet.
I think they recommend not to use the shim approach for the front suspension hanger. It lifts up the gearbox. Maybe you can try 3 up front and raise the rear aluminum block 0.5 mm that should work the same way.
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Old 05-07-2012, 12:31 AM   #5788
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I think they recommend not to use the shim approach for the front suspension hanger. It lifts up the gearbox. Maybe you can try 3 up front and raise the rear aluminum block 0.5 mm that should work the same way.
Didnt think about that. Would be easier that way anyways.
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Old 05-07-2012, 06:03 AM   #5789
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Worked on my 17.5 blinky setup yesterday. The track was damp but rutted/bumpy. To be honest I think I've found a setup that's heads and tails above my previous buggys best setup. I started with the setup Cush runs. Then tweaked it until I got the results I wanted.

Front:
30*
TeamSR steering rack 2nd hole back
1mm forward spindle/3washers behind 1 in front
Middle tower/inside arm TeamSR front tower
Inside on tower/inside on caster block (no washers)
4mm bump steer
4 AE shock washers to limit shocks (no droop screw using Tresrey frt block)
27.5 losi oil with 1.3x4 pistons
Cut losi green front truck springs (2 coils cut)
28g weight under servo

Rear:
30wt losi oil 1.2x4 middle tower/inside arm TeamSR rear tower
3mm inside limiters no droop screws
Losi pink rear buggy springs
Tresrey rear camber mount. Outside on mount 2nd hole on hub
TeamSR 1.5 anti with 3* rear toe

69/33 gearing
Ballistic with tuning rotor timing at 45+
TrakPower shorty at middle location with sc10 foam block cut to fit
JC Finnisher body/wing
Panther Rattler/Bobcat with foams

Cutting the green truck springs not only allows them to fit the buggy, it also changes the weight. Silver fronts are 3.2 and green truck are 3.5. Cutting them should put them between the two springs....so maybe a 3.35ish.

This setup allows the rear to slide off power, to tackle the tight 180s. Under slight power the rear stayed planted on the tight sections. Car rotates well. Had severall wallflowers commenting that my car "should be fast since its a mod buggy"....until I took the body off and showed them it was a 17.5!
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Last edited by Ray Kindstrom; 05-07-2012 at 07:51 AM.
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Old 05-07-2012, 07:05 AM   #5790
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Originally Posted by Ray Kindstrom View Post
Worked on my 17.5 blinky setup yesterday. The track was damp but rutted/bumpy. To be honest I think I've found a setup that's heads and tails above my previous buggys best setup. I started with the setup Cush runs. Then tweaked it until I got the results I wanted.

Front:
30*
TeamSR steering rack 2nd hole back
1mm forward spindle/3washers behind 1 in front
Middle tower/inside arm TeamSR front tower
Inside on tower/inside on caster block (no washers)
4mm bump steer
4 AE shock washers to limit shocks (no droop screw using Tresrey frt block)
27.5 losi oil with 1.3x4 pistons
Cut losi green front truck springs (2 coils cut)
28g weight under servo

Rear:
30wt losi oil 1.2x4 middle tower/inside arm TeamSR rear tower
3mm inside limiters no droop screws
Losi pink rear buggy springs
Tresrey rear camber mount. Outside on mount 2nd hole on hub
TeamSR 1.5 anti with 3* rear toe

69/33 gearing
Ballistic with tuning rotor timing at 45+
TrakPower shorty at middle location with sc10 foam block cut to fit

Cutting the green truck springs not only allows them to fit the buggy, it also changes the weight. Silver fronts are 3.2 and green truck are 3.5. Cutting them should put them between the two springs....so maybe a 3.35ish.

This setup allows the rear to slide off power, to tackle the tight 180s. Under slight power the rear stayed planted on the tight sections. Car rotates well. Had severall wallflowers commenting that my car "should be fast since its a mod buggy"....until I took the body off and showed them it was a 17.5!
Nice. Was thinking about trying Losi prings, our tracks are usually very well groomed until the 8th scales get out there and blow/rut them out. I may try a few things off this setup, especially the 1 shim forward 3 shims back on the spindle. Definately need to turn the timing up on the sonic all the way marked on the can, or do the mod and go even farther. Those motors run very cool.
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