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Old 04-02-2012, 01:26 PM   #5176
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Looks like Team Durango has a TON of parts in now!! Even the Gear Diff and all sorts of parts. Cant wait till that plunder hits the states!
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Old 04-02-2012, 01:36 PM   #5177
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Looks like Team Durango has a TON of parts in now!! Even the Gear Diff and all sorts of parts. Cant wait till that plunder hits the states!
Still OOS on many options parts on the team site. Where did you get this?
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Old 04-02-2012, 02:17 PM   #5178
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Originally Posted by Autocratic View Post
I'm already at 3. I have to redo my battery wires but then I can move the shorty pack more forward, which will definitely help.
if more antisquat is what you desire, you can remove 1 mm from the REAR toe block to get 4 degrees.
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Old 04-02-2012, 03:02 PM   #5179
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Still OOS on many options parts on the team site. Where did you get this?
hmm, your right. Well, this morning they had a ton of stock... Must have been a glitch?
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Old 04-02-2012, 03:32 PM   #5180
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If you're after more on-power steering, DECREASE anti-squat or soften up the rear springs one rate. More anti-squat stiffens the rear under acceleration which pushes the tires harder into the ground and gets more of your power down, thus lightens the front end.

When I ran RM4 and ran 3deg kickup and harder rear springs it was a weapon if you rotated it hard into corners and punched it out, was awful if you didn't rotate it far enough and would push like the proverbial on power, so bad that if for some reason you over rotated it you couldn't just light the rears up to turn it around because it had so much fwd bite!!

I then went back to the std light blue springs and it was much better but still very flighty in the front end under power. I then reduced it back to 1.5 anti-squat and it was tickin all the boxes As a bonus, less anti-squat also equals more sidebite

Now that I'm loving MM4, I have gone back to the 3deg to help keep it hooked up as it has plenty of steering everywhere anyway Jumps heaps better then the RM4 too, almost feels like I'm driving a 4wd again!

This is all with Mod FWIW...
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Old 04-02-2012, 05:06 PM   #5181
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Originally Posted by hopsing View Post
Droop screws are for adjusting the droop and have nothing to do with antisquat.

Most everyone either took their screws out or has them screwed all the way and runs full droop in the front and rear...you shouldn't have any issues with the piston breaking.
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The droop screws in the arms are for adjusting droop/shock length and has nothing to do with caster or kickup. If using the Tresrey front bulkhead you need to add/subtract limiters inside the shock to adjust droop.

The 210 has no adjustment for changing the kickup, which is the equivalent of adjusting anti-squat in the rear. However you can easily adjust caster by swapping the inserts in the front caster blocks (where the steering arm mounts). In general, more caster (leaning further back) decreases entry steering and increases exit steering, while less caster (leaning further forward) increases entry steering and decreases exit steering.
Thanks guys for the info and help
I need a rc setups for dummys book
I'm still learning
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Old 04-02-2012, 05:13 PM   #5182
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When will these be hitting TowerHobbies, since Hobbico took Durango?
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Old 04-02-2012, 06:23 PM   #5183
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I just got a package today from Tresrey USA, recieved a 2* kickup block. Ill be installing that....

Hopsing., the reason I asked if you were using the Cream weights, my car exhibited exactly the same characteristics of your car. Darty off jumps, nose high, and intermittent steering loss. Adding the forementioned weights, all of the the problems I had experienced, had disappered. My car was transformed. BTW, say hi to Brandon D aka "LA CHOY" for me..
I think I am going to like the 2* anti-squat block.

Auto, did you get your handling resolved. ?
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Old 04-02-2012, 07:02 PM   #5184
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Thanks guys for the info and help
I need a rc setups for dummys book
I'm still learning
Bring that thing down to Leisure Hours and we'll get you set up. Cush just took the points race yesterday with his- we've got his setup down pretty good, and it worked at Trackside without changing anything major.
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Old 04-02-2012, 07:46 PM   #5185
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In general, more caster (leaning further back) decreases entry steering and increases exit steering, while less caster (leaning further forward) increases entry steering and decreases exit steering.
I thought it was the other way around.
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Old 04-02-2012, 07:55 PM   #5186
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I thought it was the other way around.
Johnny5 is correct. Also more castor settles the car on longer straightaways.
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Old 04-02-2012, 07:58 PM   #5187
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I just finished converting from RM3 to RM4 and can't wait to get it on the track tomorrow.

Should I move the rear hubs to center?, was running all the way back with 3 rear anti-squat.
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Old 04-02-2012, 08:01 PM   #5188
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More Caster will make your car easier to drive. It will also make it more stable on the straights and through bumpy sections. Less Caster will give the car more front bite into corners and make it react quicker to steering inputs. Less Caster will also make your car feel a little more twitchy.

http://www.competitionx.com/rc-racin...tuning-caster/
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Old 04-03-2012, 09:25 AM   #5189
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Originally Posted by Jonny5 View Post
Bring that thing down to Leisure Hours and we'll get you set up. Cush just took the points race yesterday with his- we've got his setup down pretty good, and it worked at Trackside without changing anything major.
Ok thanks I'm going to try and head down sometime ..
I did find a cool hudy offroad setup guide ..

So in my car I have the 1-4 inserts and there all the way back what do these inserts do adjustment wise ? Part # 330340-3
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Old 04-03-2012, 09:56 AM   #5190
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Ok thanks I'm going to try and head down sometime ..
I did find a cool hudy offroad setup guide ..

So in my car I have the 1-4 inserts and there all the way back what do these inserts do adjustment wise ? Part # 330340-3
The further back the axle is, the less aggressive and smoother the steering is. The further forward it is, the more aggressive it will be, and can also feel a bit twitchy. With the axle all the way back, the caster block should be all the way forward. If you move the axle 1mm forward, shim the caster block 1mm back. This keeps the wheelbase and steering geometry correct.
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