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Old 03-29-2012, 09:59 PM   #5131
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Thanks for the responses, just need to sell my tlr 22 now. Also can the shorty lipos be used in the 210 or is it better to use full size packs?
IMO, the shorty pack works better with this car, than the one it was designed for..
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Old 03-30-2012, 01:04 AM   #5132
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Thanks for the responses, just need to sell my tlr 22 now. Also can the shorty lipos be used in the 210 or is it better to use full size packs?
it all depends on what soil you race.
the dex feels a bit heavy in the rear but it is where it gets its rear traction from..
I like my dex heavy with fullsize stickpacks, I get the feeling when I make it lighter ( using short lipo's ) I loose a bit of traction.

I run on hardpacked low/mid grip tracks.

I do not use extra weights or what so ever.

so for me it is yes to fullsize and no to shorty's
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Old 03-30-2012, 05:02 AM   #5133
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IMO, the shorty pack works better with this car, than the one it was designed for..
+1. My experience was that the car in RM configuration was a little ass-heavy with a regular pack (maybe a lower MAH pack would have helped me in hindsight but only have 5000mah packs).

With the Shorty mounted at the front it jumps level and I can really drive it hard. I didn't want to buy yet another lipo-format but heard so much about them in this car that it seemed worth it.
Got a 65C 4000mah shorty from pro-match for $60.
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Old 03-30-2012, 05:55 AM   #5134
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+1. My experience was that the car in RM configuration was a little ass-heavy with a regular pack (maybe a lower MAH pack would have helped me in hindsight but only have 5000mah packs).

With the Shorty mounted at the front it jumps level and I can really drive it hard. I didn't want to buy yet another lipo-format but heard so much about them in this car that it seemed worth it.
Got a 65C 4000mah shorty from pro-match for $60.
I've been running "shorty" packs from my initial build. The biggest thing is the shorty allows for weight to be added throughout the chassis without adding to overall chassis weight. It's a balance thing.
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Old 03-30-2012, 05:57 AM   #5135
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My dingo video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aLH57...e_gdata_player
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Old 03-30-2012, 06:15 AM   #5136
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Looks like Daytons old car! (Signature gearbox box fix)
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Old 03-30-2012, 06:30 AM   #5137
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A DEX210 Driver and Swans fan. Didn't think I'd come across another
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Old 03-30-2012, 10:07 AM   #5138
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Had a first day run with this car in RM4 stock springs and no upgrades. I am using this pack from hobbyking US http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html.

Also tried it with a protek 70C shorty. It was less punchy than the nanotech. Car RTR weight with those 2 is around 1590grams which is nice for the softer stock springs I thought. 8.5 murfdogg -5 endbell and 10 boost on the xerun geared 76/26.

Frankly I am amazed at the durability of this car.

The only issue is the stock spur is crap. I could not get the mesh to work, the car would only roll a few inches, so switched out with a rw spur and rw pinion and the car is whisper quiet.... The way this thing handles a badly timed jump is AMAZING I can just go on and on without worrying about upsetting it at all!!!

Durability is good too, took many tumbles, was tagged twice by heavy sctes thrown around by kids, took it all in its stride .

I have to rebuild the diff though. I got the car used and it had acer ceramics in the diff and on full power the diff barks a lot. I will probably end up putting the stock tungsten balls back in and sand the rings. My second chassis is being built for RM3 but hit a roadblock. My box did not have the shock piston screws in it so ordered extras from speedtechrc....
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Old 03-30-2012, 10:23 AM   #5139
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Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
Had a first day run with this car in RM4 stock springs and no upgrades. I am using this pack from hobbyking US http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html.

Also tried it with a protek 70C shorty. It was less punchy than the nanotech. Car RTR weight with those 2 is around 1590grams which is nice for the softer stock springs I thought. 8.5 murfdogg -5 endbell and 10 boost on the xerun geared 76/26.

Frankly I am amazed at the durability of this car.

The only issue is the stock spur is crap. I could not get the mesh to work, the car would only roll a few inches, so switched out with a rw spur and rw pinion and the car is whisper quiet.... The way this thing handles a badly timed jump is AMAZING I can just go on and on without worrying about upsetting it at all!!!

Durability is good too, took many tumbles, was tagged twice by heavy sctes thrown around by kids, took it all in its stride .

I have to rebuild the diff though. I got the car used and it had acer ceramics in the diff and on full power the diff barks a lot. I will probably end up putting the stock tungsten balls back in and sand the rings. My second chassis is being built for RM3 but hit a roadblock. My box did not have the shock piston screws in it so ordered extras from speedtechrc....
The stock diff balls are steel and not carbide. I tried ceramics in my diff and it barked no matter how tight I made the diff. Threw in some BFast tungsten diff balls and butta smooth.
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Old 03-30-2012, 10:26 AM   #5140
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The stock diff balls are steel and not carbide. I tried ceramics in my diff and it barked no matter how tight I made the diff. Threw in some BFast tungsten diff balls and butta smooth.
Where can I buy them?

Edit : Found em Thanks 2 buck shipping rocks!!

On another subject, what parts are needed to use B4 style rear wheels? I already have the front axles from tresrey to use b4 fronts. I am assuming this cone is needed http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...eel-Cone-Set-2.

Randy Pike had mentioned that you need a spacer too. Does anyone know what part number for that and the pin?
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Last edited by aloksatoor; 03-30-2012 at 04:14 PM.
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Old 03-31-2012, 05:14 PM   #5141
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You need the parts from the 410 or 410R



the pin
http://www.team-durango.com/part-inf...artNo=TD310135

the spacer
http://www.team-durango.com/part-inf...artNo=TD712003

the wheel cone
http://www.team-durango.com/part-inf...artNo=TD714002

the 410R the pin was 1.6 X 14(TD310135)

Last edited by fifi; 03-31-2012 at 05:30 PM.
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Old 03-31-2012, 07:05 PM   #5142
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I ran the Tresrey slipper hubs and topshaft with a JC Silent Speed spur gear today. Top notch and whisper quiet.

I also ran the flipped rear A arm mod today. It was on a smallish indoor track but it seemed to calm the car down. I have felt the 210 to be a little skittish like the previous B4. The mod adds roughly about 7mm of length. I will be running on a large outdoor track next Sat and should see how it does.
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Old 03-31-2012, 07:48 PM   #5143
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I too flipped my arms yesterday. I ran it like that in the last qualifier, to see the difference. I have the rear hub spaced 2/2, same spring , just more tension to get the height. Axle to axle, identical to my buddies 22. Now , it did a few things. Made the car longer, lazier, better at high speed sweepers. My fast individual lap, increased by .6 of a second, overall time fell off by 6 seconds due to altercations with moving obstacles on the track. I'm going to modify the ARM with new holes to keep the wheelbase, but keep the shocks foward.
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Old 03-31-2012, 08:06 PM   #5144
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Thanks man you just saved me a hundred bucks in tires

Quote:
Originally Posted by fifi View Post
You need the parts from the 410 or 410R



the pin
http://www.team-durango.com/part-inf...artNo=TD310135

the spacer
http://www.team-durango.com/part-inf...artNo=TD712003

the wheel cone
http://www.team-durango.com/part-inf...artNo=TD714002

the 410R the pin was 1.6 X 14(TD310135)
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Old 03-31-2012, 08:44 PM   #5145
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Here's a vid of my 210 from last nights club race at my local track. SDRC in San Diego, CA. Med grip, clay. I was running Super soft AKA Vektor fronts/AKA foam in front and ver1 MC Suburbs in rear with PL closed cell foam. Sauced front and rear with Trackstar Gold. I normally run either Rebars or Vektors but was doing some compound testing.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


I had a pretty solid first run (car was really good) and a DNF in the second run due to stupidity and qualified 3rd for the night. Car was stellar in the qualifier, not as good in the main. Track got a little bumpier as the night went on due the Intermediate SC classes (both 2wd and 4wd) not being very good at timing all the jumps and hammering the faces of most of them. Overall my car is really good there....I could use just a touch more mid corner steering and I have a few things I'm going to test soon.

My car needs a diff rebuild and new shock seals....I did a shock "rebuild" before the first qualifier and by the mains there was oil all over the lower shock cups The car was definitely not as good in the main. TQ was a +10 Kyosho and 2nd was a +8 B4.1....... on a big track like this, I need to try a long chassis We'll see....

I'll post up my qualifier as soon as its done processing
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Last edited by hopsing; 03-31-2012 at 11:19 PM.
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