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Old 02-19-2012, 03:51 PM   #4501
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Originally Posted by jmackani View Post
Not sure I can believe this. The price on the DNX408 has dropped drastically and all the speculation is so HRP can dump what they have in stock in less than a month. They have not touched the other cars which are mostly out of stock anyway. As a matter of fact, the HRP distributor website shows every Durango vehicle out of stock.
Funny, I talked to two guys from HRP today.

They seemed hopeful about the Hobbico purchase, but said that Durango still needs to be sending them the stuff that is wanted by the public. If you look at TD's website, alot of the stuff is out of stock, so even if you wanted to spend the money on shipping, there's nothing to buy.

In my opinion, even after talking to both Hobbico and HRP, I think it's too early to tell at this point what's really going to happen.
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Old 02-19-2012, 11:28 PM   #4502
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Thanks guys! Comments:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Furtado66 View Post
Put some shock oil on the o-ring. That will solve the problem
I'll try that, but I think someone wrote earlier that they got this problem when they spilled oil on the o-ring during filling.

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Originally Posted by RacerMike42 View Post
Another thing you can do (what I did) take an exacto knife and chamfer the inside edge of the shock cap. It doesn't take much and solved the problem for me.
That's what I was planning with a dremel. I'll try this as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
Sounds like you built them incorrectly. The initial black disk that goes in first needs to be put in correctly, or the entire group sits out too far. Happened to me the first time too... didn't seem right... looked everything over again really closly and found the problem. Built correctly, the shocks go together like clockwork.
That's a great tip Captain, or should I say it would be - if my problem was the bottom of the shock, not the top. Thanks anyway!
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Old 02-19-2012, 11:53 PM   #4503
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take the bleeder screw out when putting the cap on. after a few times this stops, wanted to throw my 410 shocks against the wall after 10 times of this happening.
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Old 02-20-2012, 01:30 AM   #4504
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Originally Posted by jnslprd View Post
take the bleeder screw out when putting the cap on. after a few times this stops, wanted to throw my 410 shocks against the wall after 10 times of this happening.
That one I know from my AE shocks. With the screw in, you get pressure and push the o-ring out.
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Old 02-20-2012, 02:57 AM   #4505
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anybody has the 210 geardiff in stock ?
Im ready to buy one.
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Old 02-20-2012, 03:00 AM   #4506
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Trinity Revtech 7.5, High Velocity 4k 60c Shorties

someone told me to post that over here since alot of 210 guys are looking for shorties hah.
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Old 02-20-2012, 05:09 AM   #4507
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Team Durango DEX210 or TLR 22 can't decided HELP
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Old 02-20-2012, 05:15 AM   #4508
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Originally Posted by murky123 View Post
anybody has the 210 geardiff in stock ?
Im ready to buy one.
Me too!! But like most Durango parts. It's out of stock. Losi parts house has a listing for the set.

TDR210034 Gear Diff Set (DEX210) 28.99

Hopefully the hobbico purchase means we can have them within the month!!
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Old 02-20-2012, 05:19 AM   #4509
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Originally Posted by MrGidi123 View Post
Team Durango DEX210 or TLR 22 can't decided HELP
Parts support is defintly better for the 22. But having driven both. My personal opinion is the DEX. Even with terrible parts support, I believe the car is worth that headache!!

Again, just my opinion..
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Old 02-20-2012, 05:40 AM   #4510
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrEaKiShTuNER View Post
Me too!! But like most Durango parts. It's out of stock. Losi parts house has a listing for the set.

TDR210034 Gear Diff Set (DEX210) 28.99

Hopefully the hobbico purchase means we can have them within the month!!
I just ordered the Associated SC10 Gear Diff and HPI shims

ASC9827

HPIZ892 (2 packs)

The diff drops right in and I was told to use 10 shims on each side


I also ordered Associated Silicone Fluid in 1000 and 2000.
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Old 02-20-2012, 06:08 AM   #4511
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Originally Posted by Posvar View Post
I just ordered the Associated SC10 Gear Diff and HPI shims

ASC9827

HPIZ892 (2 packs)

The diff drops right in and I was told to use 10 shims on each side


I also ordered Associated Silicone Fluid in 1000 and 2000.

Nice!!! I will look into ordering that kit too!!

I know the guys over on the sc10 thread were mixing 3k and 5k to give them close to 4k. Thats how they were tuning their gear diff.. But thats a heavier truck. The 1k and 2k sounds like a good starting point..
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Old 02-20-2012, 07:59 AM   #4512
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has anyone tried the kyosho diff rings as a temp until durango gets them back out. I dont have any kyosho stuff laying around and was told it would work.
Anyone?
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Old 02-20-2012, 08:42 AM   #4513
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I had the same problem with the cap O-ring grabbing the cap too. I put some shock oil on it and it didn't really help, so I just tightened the cap down really slowly and carefully to the point where there was a decent amount of torque on it and left it. There is no way to get it tightened down so that the cap meets the body without creating more space for the O-ring. So far the caps haven't leaked at all and I don't think that they will. The issue is just that it's a weird design with the O-ring being sandwiched between two flat surfaces. TD should have added groove in the cap.
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Old 02-20-2012, 09:44 AM   #4514
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hi guys,
i m new to 2wd and i m planning to buy a dex210..

i ve just a couple of questions:

-do you think this electronic would be fine: lrp sxx stock spec, 10.5 gm motor,
servo sanwa 801??

-which pinions should i drive with the 10.5 (timing and no-timing)??
does it change anything in the ratio by changing the number of gears or the motor position??

-lastly, how is it to drive a 2wd buggy? is it fun? compared with the 4wd??
easier to maintain??

thanks so much to every one can help me..

thanks!!
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Old 02-20-2012, 10:50 AM   #4515
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Originally Posted by WheelNut View Post
I had the same problem with the cap O-ring grabbing the cap too. I put some shock oil on it and it didn't really help, so I just tightened the cap down really slowly and carefully to the point where there was a decent amount of torque on it and left it. There is no way to get it tightened down so that the cap meets the body without creating more space for the O-ring. So far the caps haven't leaked at all and I don't think that they will. The issue is just that it's a weird design with the O-ring being sandwiched between two flat surfaces. TD should have added groove in the cap.
I used the orings from a set of regular bores on my most recent shocks. It was really by accident- I misplaced the original orings and had a spare set of the regular bore ones on hand. They are a little thinner from being stretched over the larger body, but no leaks and the caps tighten nicely. I also trimmed the mold flash off the bottom of the cap like a few others have mentioned.
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