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Old 02-11-2012, 05:38 PM   #4306
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Going more inline with your front axles won't give you more overall steering. If you have an on power push, and are running carpet... You should be running mm3... Also limiting your front droop will help. But I would definitly convert to mm3.
Did not even think of that. Thanks!
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Old 02-12-2012, 12:03 AM   #4307
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do you have a link to where you bought it from?
rcjunky is selling them i think
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Old 02-12-2012, 12:04 AM   #4308
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yep no worries, I found him on 'oople' after I posted
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Old 02-12-2012, 04:48 AM   #4309
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http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=92330

I'd rather if those interested pmed my on oople to help me keep things strait. I'm running low on some stock so I'll be updating quantities probably tonight.
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Old 02-12-2012, 05:46 AM   #4310
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http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=92330

I'd rather if those interested pmed my on oople to help me keep things strait. I'm running low on some stock so I'll be updating quantities probably tonight.
I saw your pics of your parts and they look great! One suggestion, slot the screw holes of the shims. Easier to insert by simply loosening the screws instead of removing.
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Old 02-12-2012, 06:09 AM   #4311
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I would not got to mm3 because traction is still limited there. What tires are you running. I have found once I figured out the shocks my car has been decent. But if you are running stock springs, stock pistons, wrong tires, and too much motor as most of the guys there run. Then it will be hard to get your car to work. I just adjust set up with tires from week to week.

And on a side note. Do not waste your money on trying a gear diff there.
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Old 02-12-2012, 06:13 AM   #4312
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I saw your pics of your parts and they look great! One suggestion, slot the screw holes of the shims. Easier to insert by simply loosening the screws instead of removing.
I thought about that, maybe I'll get that changed for the next batch, I still have a bunch of shims in stock though.
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Old 02-12-2012, 06:19 AM   #4313
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I thought about that, maybe I'll get that changed for the next batch, I still have a bunch of shims in stock though.
I like the shim concept better than the current system. To change it out you have to take apart the backend and is time consuming. Would like to see adjustability from 0, 1, 2, 3 degrees.
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Old 02-12-2012, 09:15 AM   #4314
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http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=92330

I'd rather if those interested pmed my on oople to help me keep things strait. I'm running low on some stock so I'll be updating quantities probably tonight.
Loving the look of these, but I am wondering - is alu or CF the best choice for the steering rack?
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Old 02-12-2012, 10:52 AM   #4315
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Had another DNS in a big race this weekend due to TD quality control issues... Wheel hex pin broken in two. Anybody know of any direct replacements for the hex pins?
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Old 02-12-2012, 11:06 AM   #4316
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Had another DNS in a big race this weekend due to TD quality control issues... Wheel hex pin broken in two. Anybody know of any direct replacements for the hex pins?
When I'm in a tight situation, I trim down an old body clip to fit
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Old 02-12-2012, 11:06 AM   #4317
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I would not got to mm3 because traction is still limited there. What tires are you running. I have found once I figured out the shocks my car has been decent. But if you are running stock springs, stock pistons, wrong tires, and too much motor as most of the guys there run. Then it will be hard to get your car to work. I just adjust set up with tires from week to week.

And on a side note. Do not waste your money on trying a gear diff there.
Thanks West. Yeah, just gotta work on it a bit. Just looking for that quick fix
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Old 02-12-2012, 11:07 AM   #4318
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Had another DNS in a big race this weekend due to TD quality control issues... Wheel hex pin broken in two. Anybody know of any direct replacements for the hex pins?
Wheel hex pin...that's a first.

I lost one of my pins, so I used a spare XXX-CR hex pin I had. Same size, just a little shorter. I put a dab of CA glue on each pin so they stay in.

I had a good 17.5 race this weekend.

New Revtech worked amazing. Geared 69/35 seemed to be the best, and stock timing. Took 2nd in the A-Main, but should have had first. I messed up the setup to our double/double jumps on one lap and had to roll all four. I was only 1.1 secconds behind the leader at the end who qualified behind me in 5th and was slower in Top 5 and Top 10 average laps by over 500ths.

Completely different setup from last week seemed to work out very well. Had tons of grip and tons of steering. Didn't make a single chassis adjustment all day. The car just wanted to go where I told it. Very happy with the end result.

Have a few things I'll be testing on it next time I'm able to practice. Same pistons front and rear but tapered. Should help make the car even more smooth in the bumps. 12.5 HT rotor for the Revtech and same gearing/timing. With a little more punch I should be able to clear a small single/double whoop section that most people have to roll 3xsingle.
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Old 02-12-2012, 11:39 AM   #4319
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Had another DNS in a big race this weekend due to TD quality control issues... Wheel hex pin broken in two. Anybody know of any direct replacements for the hex pins?
On my 210 and 410 I am using the J Concepts 12mm hex for the b4.1, spaced with the 2mm spacer. I use Associated roll pins for the hexes. Not one problem here, and putting down plenty of power..

I did have the opportunity to run a gear diff the other night. I filled it with Losi 5k, it defintetly accelerates faster, but steps out easier. I need to get that nailed down.
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Old 02-12-2012, 11:46 AM   #4320
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When I'm in a tight situation, I trim down an old body clip to fit
Yeah, Iv been running one of those for a while when I lost one of my originals. Ironically, I was worried about breaking the body pin, not one of the factory ones! Body pins are a bit small and create a bit of slop/play between the pin and axle. I was hoping to find an OEM type pin that fit better than the stock ones.
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