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Old 02-09-2012, 08:22 PM   #4276
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Can you get the gear diff yet?
I just rebuilt the ball diff with ciramic balls after grinding down the part of the diff that goes through the bearings and it still barks. Ant tighter and its posi.
I'm putting the SC10 diff back in.
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Old 02-09-2012, 08:37 PM   #4277
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Can you get the gear diff yet?
I just rebuilt the ball diff with ciramic balls after grinding down the part of the diff that goes through the bearings and it still barks. Ant tighter and its posi.
I'm putting the SC10 diff back in.
They just released the gear diff. I tried ceramics and they just do not work. Try carbide main diff balls and ceramic thrust. Some ball diffs just cannot use ceramics.
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Old 02-09-2012, 08:42 PM   #4278
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Has anybody had any issues with the doodad that holds the servo mounts mating properly with the chassis wings and lining up with the holes properly?
The right side seems to mate up just fine and line up with the steering rack mount, but the holes don't line up, and the left side just doesn't line up with ANYTHING.
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Old 02-09-2012, 08:43 PM   #4279
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If nolimit wants to split it, ThunderbirdJunkie will take the top body. He's not concerned with the bottom.
I would be willing to do that. Let me know how much. I'll email mantis also.
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Old 02-09-2012, 08:56 PM   #4280
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Default Broken Shock Mount

Where can I get one of these? Thanks for any help
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Old 02-10-2012, 12:32 AM   #4281
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I can get that parts tree but its more expensive than US prices plus shipping
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Old 02-10-2012, 12:39 AM   #4282
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hey guys im coming from a 2wd and 4wd sc

is this a good first buggy? any down sides to the buggy? easy to setup? i have a mmp and redline 8.5 to put in it. i can get rango parts locally and the price seems reasonable..

any advantages over the b4.1 or 22?
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Old 02-10-2012, 12:54 AM   #4283
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hey guys im coming from a 2wd and 4wd sc

is this a good first buggy? any down sides to the buggy? easy to setup? i have a mmp and redline 8.5 to put in it. i can get rango parts locally and the price seems reasonable..

any advantages over the b4.1 or 22?
compared to the 22, hmm... more nimble and quick exiting corners ( shorter chassis) , downside is rear link stud location if you break a stud need to change the gearbox, but guys are making a fix for this and the problem with TD's Ball cups is also not yet solve, need to change to AE (TC5 Studs) and Losi Cups(heavy duty or extra rigid). Parts availabality i think guys are finding it hard to get parts ( not for sure on your location), but normally i get mine thru Amain/Losipartshouse. you just need to stock up.
Kit has lots of tuning kits so basically it depends on you if you want to get the blings or just the spare.

So over all its a great kit, not sure about the B4 as i have yet to own one.Compared to the 22, well the 22 tuning kits are not plenty included in the kit, just the kick up plates and shims. and you tend to replace the stock steering link to Allu to solve the Binding issue, the Diff nut needs to be replaced to V2, you also need to change the King pins screw to threaded to solve the king pins being broken. Electronics placement for the 22 is also an issue unless you get LP servo and micro Rx and ESC's. But handling wise 22 is also a competitive car, but did not have the juice to pull of the recent Reedy race of champions though ( just my thought) hahaha , get my point .
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Old 02-10-2012, 01:09 AM   #4284
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good points. appreciate it. im in the LA area of CA so losipartshouse is the place for me

the ballcup gear box issue scares me...
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Old 02-10-2012, 01:30 AM   #4285
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good points. appreciate it. im in the LA area of CA so losipartshouse is the place for me

the ballcup gear box issue scares me...
a few threads back you can refer to the pics for the Gearbox fix, here what i did to mine, mine is still ok. Just reinforced the Rear link stud so that load will ease up on my gearbox.



From OOple.com

CF Rear Links


Raul Garcia and MantisWorks also manufactures these fix, so no worries for this problem.

Losipartshouse is a bit cheaper than Amain but the coupon discount and points is better at Amain.
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Old 02-10-2012, 05:32 AM   #4286
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I have been running the sc10 diff with 1000 diff oil for a couple of weeks. Having great success with it. I would suggest trying it.
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Old 02-10-2012, 05:42 AM   #4287
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I have been running the sc10 diff with 1000 diff oil for a couple of weeks. Having great success with it. I would suggest trying it.
Sorry to ask this as others have already but what size shims did you use for the sc10 diff?

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Old 02-10-2012, 07:49 AM   #4288
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Sorry to ask this as others have already but what size shims did you use for the sc10 diff?

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Old 02-10-2012, 08:32 AM   #4289
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Use motor spray to clean all the shock parts out. Let dry. Thread lock bolt and let sit overnight. Build the shocks the next day. Should be ok and don't use TD red threadlock - no good.

I have a setup question that I hope you guys can help me with.

I am running MM4 on our 40x100 asphalt/carpet offroad track.
Front: full trailing, 30 castor, spring stock, 1.5 camber
Rear: 3.5 toe, spring 1 harder than stock (light red), 1.5 anti squat, 1.5 camber

Car is good for me, nice to drive, and stable, quick enough.

The car pushes on-power. We have a lot of Durangos at or track - one guy said to run 3 trailing to help with the on-power push.

From what I have read, this seems counter-intuitive to me... I put 24g in the nose and it helped but not enough.

Should I go to 3 trailing??? I do not need any more turn in - car has enough now.

Any ideas? Thanks
Going more inline with your front axles won't give you more overall steering. If you have an on power push, and are running carpet... You should be running mm3... Also limiting your front droop will help. But I would definitly convert to mm3.
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Old 02-10-2012, 08:49 AM   #4290
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Originally Posted by slow_jun View Post
compared to the 22, hmm... more nimble and quick exiting corners ( shorter chassis) , downside is rear link stud location if you break a stud need to change the gearbox, but guys are making a fix for this and the problem with TD's Ball cups is also not yet solve, need to change to AE (TC5 Studs) and Losi Cups(heavy duty or extra rigid). Parts availabality i think guys are finding it hard to get parts ( not for sure on your location), but normally i get mine thru Amain/Losipartshouse. you just need to stock up.
Kit has lots of tuning kits so basically it depends on you if you want to get the blings or just the spare.

So over all its a great kit, not sure about the B4 as i have yet to own one.Compared to the 22, well the 22 tuning kits are not plenty included in the kit, just the kick up plates and shims. and you tend to replace the stock steering link to Allu to solve the Binding issue, the Diff nut needs to be replaced to V2, you also need to change the King pins screw to threaded to solve the king pins being broken. Electronics placement for the 22 is also an issue unless you get LP servo and micro Rx and ESC's. But handling wise 22 is also a competitive car, but did not have the juice to pull of the recent Reedy race of champions though ( just my thought) hahaha , get my point .
I run both the sct and the 4wd buggy and I am not having ball cup issues. If you hit the pipe that hard, they are going to pop off.
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