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Old 02-02-2012, 05:32 AM   #4066
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what is that part for .... to the right ?
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Old 02-02-2012, 05:39 AM   #4067
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Rear weight.


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Old 02-02-2012, 06:41 AM   #4068
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Interesting....1/10th seems to now be taking on some features of 1/8th scale. Aluminum chassis, alum shocktowers, hubs etc..... I like it. Why not make these things beefy. We have the power to move em now with lipos and bl.
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Old 02-02-2012, 06:45 AM   #4069
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Interesting....1/10th seems to now be taking on some features of 1/8th scale. Aluminum chassis, alum shocktowers, hubs etc..... I like it. Why not make these things beefy. We have the power to move em now with lipos and bl.
+1
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Old 02-02-2012, 06:48 AM   #4070
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Does anyone have any rear shocks for sale or do you know of other shocks that would fit the rear? Thanks
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Old 02-02-2012, 07:28 AM   #4071
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Interesting....1/10th seems to now be taking on some features of 1/8th scale. Aluminum chassis, alum shocktowers, hubs etc..... I like it. Why not make these things beefy. We have the power to move em now with lipos and bl.
It's also a side benefit of the light batteries. With the extra weight advantage in hand weight can be "spent" for the benefit of the car's durability. The TLR22 is supposed to be a tank too.

Though for what it's worth, a properly engineered plastic part is usually superior to a cnc machined aluminum one (cost, weight, etc.). Aluminum is often a heavy "band-aid" on 1/8th cars and as they've gotten so much better over the last 5 years it's really been reduced to decoration.
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Old 02-02-2012, 08:51 AM   #4072
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Does anyone have any rear shocks for sale or do you know of other shocks that would fit the rear? Thanks
I prefer these on all my Durango's

http://www.tresrey-usa.com/mos-coate...-desc410-rear/
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Old 02-02-2012, 09:06 AM   #4073
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It's also a side benefit of the light batteries. With the extra weight advantage in hand weight can be "spent" for the benefit of the car's durability. The TLR22 is supposed to be a tank too.

Though for what it's worth, a properly engineered plastic part is usually superior to a cnc machined aluminum one (cost, weight, etc.). Aluminum is often a heavy "band-aid" on 1/8th cars and as they've gotten so much better over the last 5 years it's really been reduced to decoration.
+1. Aluminum for shock towers is way overkill. The stock shock towers are perfect. I have yet to break one.
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Old 02-02-2012, 09:24 AM   #4074
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+1. Aluminum for shock towers is way overkill. The stock shock towers are perfect. I have yet to break one.
then you must not ever crash or run with people that might run into you, I consider myself a good driver and I've still gone though 3 rear towers before I got ahold of a C/F one.
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Old 02-02-2012, 09:50 AM   #4075
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then you must not ever crash or run with people that might run into you, I consider myself a good driver and I've still gone though 3 rear towers before I got ahold of a C/F one.
You know its odd, that some have broken many rear towers, while some, myself included have not, and I have crashed very hard and often on a large track, with hits that make me cringe. I have even tried to clear the tripple(1/8 track) and sent my 210 flipping end over end. Mantisworxs is shocked that i haven broke the rear yet. we have been waiting for it to break so i can run his rear tower.....
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Old 02-02-2012, 10:23 AM   #4076
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So, I've been running my car a couple of weeks, and really like it. But there is one part that is a serious issue. The rear camber mount is junk. Why couldn't Durango make a bolt on alloy block or something other than the plastic ear. Does anyone make a alloy rear camber plate as a option. I've tried the others too, with no success.
I wouldn't call it a serious problem although a few have had some issues with that mount. I personally have taken some pretty good tumbles and have popped the inner link a couple of times but never had a problem with breaking the mount. Did you change to aftermarket ballcups and balls because it seems that most people that have broke that mount have done that. Just curious.

Of all the guys I know that have and drive the 210, I only know one that broke his and he had aftermarket ball cups.

I could imagine that the colder climate you race in may contribute to the plastic becoming brittle in the cold maybe?
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Old 02-02-2012, 10:50 AM   #4077
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What's the benefit of the MOS coating?
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Old 02-02-2012, 10:51 AM   #4078
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WTF does MOS stand for?
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Old 02-02-2012, 10:56 AM   #4079
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I wouldn't call it a serious problem although a few have had some issues with that mount. I personally have taken some pretty good tumbles and have popped the inner link a couple of times but never had a problem with breaking the mount. Did you change to aftermarket ballcups and balls because it seems that most people that have broke that mount have done that. Just curious.

Of all the guys I know that have and drive the 210, I only know one that broke his and he had aftermarket ball cups.

I could imagine that the colder climate you race in may contribute to the plastic becoming brittle in the cold maybe?
I really think the ball cups are designed to pop before something major snaps. I have the 4wd and the ball cups seem weak but I have never popped one under normal circumstances. I however popped multiple when I was was t boned by a Losi and it saved all the major parts
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Old 02-02-2012, 11:38 AM   #4080
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WTF does MOS stand for?
must
order
shnit
its a must have?
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