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Old 01-14-2012, 05:41 PM   #3556
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I have a shopping cart of items at amain but can't for the life of me find the X-ray clip on their site.
I dont think they have them, I got mine at speedtech, but they are out of stock atm.. YGPM
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Old 01-14-2012, 05:50 PM   #3557
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I dont think they have them, I got mine at speedtech, but they are out of stock atm.. YGPM
Thanks!
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Old 01-14-2012, 06:45 PM   #3558
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I noticed a few guys running the rear front suspension holder made from aluminum who makes that and where can I get one? Thanks guys
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Old 01-14-2012, 06:49 PM   #3559
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I noticed a few guys running the rear front suspension holder made from aluminum who makes that and where can I get one? Thanks guys
There is a guy on this thread making them. Tresrey will be making one as well that has 2 degrees on anti-squat. http://tresreyusa.blogspot.com/2012/...ts-almost.html
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Old 01-14-2012, 07:00 PM   #3560
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I noticed a few guys running the rear front suspension holder made from aluminum who makes that and where can I get one? Thanks guys
Yeti made a few, see if he is till doing them otherwise Tresrey has them coming in a few weeks ..
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Old 01-14-2012, 07:57 PM   #3561
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Any idea on some good ball cups to use mine keep popping off
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Old 01-14-2012, 08:09 PM   #3562
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I noticed a few guys running the rear front suspension holder made from aluminum who makes that and where can I get one? Thanks guys
Fixed
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Last edited by netmaster; 01-14-2012 at 08:35 PM.
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Old 01-14-2012, 08:20 PM   #3563
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Team Durango ones are also now available.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...nsion-Hanger-3
That is the rear rear toe block. It's not an option part.
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Old 01-14-2012, 08:36 PM   #3564
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That is the rear rear toe block. It's not an option part.
Oops, thanks for catching that.
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Old 01-14-2012, 08:55 PM   #3565
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Hey fellas,

I bought my buggy used and just now got it all together. The diff does not feel right. It seems to tighten up pretty bad once every revolution and then break loose. It feels tight enough over all. I think I am just going to tear it down and rebuild it. I have watched the video and know about using a new clip. I have experience doing diffs and in my last car(tlr 22) I had it buttery smooth for months with the bfast pro diff kit.

Has anyone else had a diff feel this way? Thought I would ask before I start taking out screws.

Matt
YES I HAVE!!!! it is the thrust bearing cage, take the apart, remove the balls out of the cage and just lay them into the rings with some thick grease. put back together and rock and roll!!
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Old 01-14-2012, 09:09 PM   #3566
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GREAT DAY OF TESTING TODAY!!

A few pages back i posted that i was going to copy someones setup (i cant remember who it was but he posted it) well i did and i also did the bump steer mod by drilling another hole 4mm towards the outside. the car was the best it has ever been! steering was perfect and i was able to beat my best lap time by 4 tenths on a track that was not anywhere near as fast as it was with my other lap time! I think apples to apples its about a second quicker. On a bad note my "sand the shock bodies to keep the TSR bladders from imploding" mod did not work so i had to put the bleeder screws back in on the rear. The car felt much better with them out but it would only last for a few laps before they bled out.
shock setup was also lightly different from the copied setup as i have stock front springs losi red rears with 27.5wt front 1.1/1.2 6hole and 20wt 1.2/1.3 rear.
Tekin redine 10.5 with 29/83 and 35* of boost.

Ok one more thing, how in the hell are you guys running 3 and 5k on the gear dif? I tried it today and it was awfull and barely driveable???? I went back to just the AE grease (which is really nothing) and the car was soooooo much better, this is on hardpack ,dusty clay with SS suburbs and 3ribs on the front.

I also tested the RCshox gearbox fix bar and i had no breakage to day with plenty of high and low speed crashes (its an 1/8 track with triples!!) so its a go on them, I will have them on the site in a few days!

I will say it again .....BADASS CAR!! i love it!
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Old 01-14-2012, 09:40 PM   #3567
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I actually raced today on mid-motor.

Did terrible. Struggled all day with getting something that was decently drivable even though the track got watered and traction came up some.

Heat 1 got better after some improvements from early morning practice.
Heat 2 couldn't get any fast laps because somehow I had a low volt battery.
Heat 3 I had a ball cup come off, guy in the pit couldn't get the driveshaft back in. Finally fixed it and my ESC turns off because the power button got loose.
Main was basically the same thing as Heat 3.

I started to feel the car get faster in Heat 1&2 and decided to keep moving in the same direction with adjustments. Made it worse in the end and the Main was just a bust for me anyway.

Going back to rear-motor. Mid just doesn't work on my track. I had the car tweaked as much as I could after reading a few things that worked on the XFactory cars, and they helped, just not enough.

I'm re-building the car, again, and going back to complete stock setup with 35w/27.5w oil. This also means I'm taking out the dual pistons (for now, sorry Marcus), but I will put them back in eventually when I feel more comfortable with the car, and my ability to judge and make changes gets better.

Also, Heat 2 & 3, both rear shocks blew the bladders and puked out all the oil my shocks possibly could. Still have no idea what's going on. I bought another set of brand new TL22 bladders. I beveled the inside edge of two brand new shock caps, and oiled both sides of each bladder. The first one I fixed hasn't blown, which is a good sign. Need to do the same on the second.

Marcus, for me, the 3k and 7k oil was too light earlier on in the week when the track was very dry. I ran 10k all day today and after tearing down the transmission tonight it still feels very smooth and makes no noise.

I ran Heat 1&2 today on Losi pink 3-ribs/AKA Soft Impacts. Heat 3&Main I ran on Losi pink Taper Pins/HB ink Gigabites. I think I should have stayed on the Impacts, as they seem to give a little more bite in slightly damp dirt. the Gigabites are really good when it's try/dusty.

That's it for my report tonight. No hate Marcus, I just think I need to learn to drive this car in kit form and not with anything fancy right now. I never really got to see how RM/kit settings worked because I built the car with soo many different pieces.

-Auto
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Old 01-15-2012, 06:12 AM   #3568
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Why use bladders?
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Old 01-15-2012, 06:37 AM   #3569
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Why use bladders?

he uses 2 stage pistons which control rebound and work better with bladders.

Auto, no worries i understand! your going to like RM much better, i am really liking the traction of RM4.

I dont think i would start off with 10k on the RM though, you may end up back that high but i didnt even like 3k!!
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Old 01-15-2012, 06:59 AM   #3570
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I seem to be nosing up on the jumps and I cant seem to control it as much as with my sc truck using brake. Was thinking of trying some weight up front, where are you guys putting it, right in front of the servo? If so how much?
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