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Old 01-13-2012, 08:54 PM   #3541
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Looking for some suggestions to fix my screw up. I made the holes to big on the wing for the body post and now theres some movement in the wing. Do I need a new wing or is there a trick I cant think of to fix it?
Ha, I did something similar, I followed the magic dots on mine, and guess what?? They dont line up with the mounts...I ovaled them out a bit, and used some soft foam underneath the wing to help hold it firmly..works fine, and the wing is crazy durable...
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Old 01-13-2012, 09:09 PM   #3542
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Ha, I did something similar, I followed the magic dots on mine, and guess what?? They dont line up with the mounts...I ovaled them out a bit, and used some soft foam underneath the wing to help hold it firmly..works fine, and the wing is crazy durable...

Me too. Lol

I used double sided servo tape under the wing on the wing mount and the wing.
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Old 01-14-2012, 02:50 AM   #3543
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It comes from ARRMA which is a sister company of Team Durango.
It drops right in with no shimming needed. I run it with 3000CST oil and it works great. You can get all the parts from Tower Hobbies for about $24.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...MA&S2=&S3=&S4=

You'll need the ARRMA Diff Gear Idler Gear Set, ARRMA Diff Gear Outdrives and the ARRMA Diff Gear Maintenance Set. It all goes together very easy, just add the diff oil of choice.

Just make sure you put the 210 Diff bearings on the idler gear before you install the outdrives as the bearings won't fit over them.

BTW, the ARRMA slipper clutch pads are the same as the 210's. I haven't tried their spur gears yet....
Bought all the above gear set, fitted it all properly before running the car......crunched it (plastic idle gear) in less than 2 mins. It's not a perfect fit, close but not close enough. Will wait until Durango actually release their complete gear diff.
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Old 01-14-2012, 07:23 AM   #3544
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Bought all the above gear set, fitted it all properly before running the car......crunched it (plastic idle gear) in less than 2 mins. It's not a perfect fit, close but not close enough. Will wait until Durango actually release their complete gear diff.
Honestly I like the SC10 diff. Yea, it needs shims, and slightly noisy, but it fits perfect other wise.

I'm sure the official TD diff will be 100x better, of course; whenever that is finally released.
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Old 01-14-2012, 08:24 AM   #3545
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Bought all the above gear set, fitted it all properly before running the car......crunched it (plastic idle gear) in less than 2 mins. It's not a perfect fit, close but not close enough. Will wait until Durango actually release their complete gear diff.
Hey Damit, Sorry to hear that

Mine has been running fine for weeks now.
Are you running the 3 or 4 gear setup? Also Did you break the Diff in a bit as the O Ring seals on the out drives are a bit stiff until you work them in some.

Do you have some Pics of what it did to the Idler Gear?
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Old 01-14-2012, 08:56 AM   #3546
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I ordered a arrma diff , will give it a try for $24 doesn't break the bank.
How you running it in? a few nice laps or on the bench?
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Old 01-14-2012, 09:44 AM   #3547
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I ordered a arrma diff , will give it a try for $24 doesn't break the bank.
How you running it in? a few nice laps or on the bench?
Since Damit had some issues right away, Start with it on the bench to break in the out drive O-rings a bit, this will help loosen up the diff as they can be very stiff at first. Hold one wheel then the other to get them loose, then hit the track. I run 3000wt oil in the diff. Had no problems to date running a 3 gear setup. As I told Damit, Also make sure when you build it to put the 210 Diff bearings on before you install the out drives on as they won't fit over the out drives.

This is an all metal Diff so with metal on plastic we do run the risk of eating the plastic Idler Gear with too much power to it. Check the Gear mesh it should fit well but it won't be as tight at the Original Ball diff gear.

Let us know how it works for you.
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Old 01-14-2012, 10:22 AM   #3548
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Anyone try the B4 steering rack ackerman bar? My original broke during setup and I'm just now getting around to fixing it (2 months later) and the B4 one is the same size. It's a lot beefier too, just wanted to see if anyone else tried it before I put it back together and find out there's some weird clearance issue or something. On that same note, my 210 will be for sale shortly if someone is looking for a mint used buggy with zero track time on it. Bought it to check out the design and I've got all my Cougars back together now so this is going to end up as a shelfer. Drop me an email at [email protected] if you're interested before it hits the for sale thread.
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Old 01-14-2012, 02:19 PM   #3549
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A few new products from Diggity Designs..... I wasn't really on board with the front shock tower design moving the ballcups to the horizontal design but once installed it wasn't really as bad as I thought it would be and it fit perfect, looks good and is stiffer than the stock one.

http://diggitydesigns.com/D3_OffRoad...rango_210.html
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Durango DEX210 Thread-wp_001564.jpg   Durango DEX210 Thread-wp_001565.jpg   Durango DEX210 Thread-wp_001566.jpg   Durango DEX210 Thread-wp_001348.jpg  
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Last edited by hopsing; 01-14-2012 at 02:29 PM.
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Old 01-14-2012, 05:09 PM   #3550
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Default Diff rebuild

Hey fellas,

I bought my buggy used and just now got it all together. The diff does not feel right. It seems to tighten up pretty bad once every revolution and then break loose. It feels tight enough over all. I think I am just going to tear it down and rebuild it. I have watched the video and know about using a new clip. I have experience doing diffs and in my last car(tlr 22) I had it buttery smooth for months with the bfast pro diff kit.

Has anyone else had a diff feel this way? Thought I would ask before I start taking out screws.

Matt
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Old 01-14-2012, 05:25 PM   #3551
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Hey fellas,

I bought my buggy used and just now got it all together. The diff does not feel right. It seems to tighten up pretty bad once every revolution and then break loose. It feels tight enough over all. I think I am just going to tear it down and rebuild it. I have watched the video and know about using a new clip. I have experience doing diffs and in my last car(tlr 22) I had it buttery smooth for months with the bfast pro diff kit.

Has anyone else had a diff feel this way? Thought I would ask before I start taking out screws.

Matt
Seems like something is warped or not seated correctly. Check the rings to see if they are completely flat as well as the thrust washers. Check the diff balls are all there or if the diff screw is true.
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Old 01-14-2012, 05:35 PM   #3552
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Hey fellas,

I bought my buggy used and just now got it all together. The diff does not feel right. It seems to tighten up pretty bad once every revolution and then break loose. It feels tight enough over all. I think I am just going to tear it down and rebuild it. I have watched the video and know about using a new clip. I have experience doing diffs and in my last car(tlr 22) I had it buttery smooth for months with the bfast pro diff kit.

Has anyone else had a diff feel this way? Thought I would ask before I start taking out screws.

Matt

Yeah, if you use the stock clip, then def replace it every time, I would recommend the xray #966080 or fastenal spring steel clips, they are much better.. Once you get the hang of the diff, it is very good, and last a long time. As far as the tight spot, hard to say, may be a mesh thing, or a bad bearing somewhere..If it were me, and rebuilding a used car trans, I would upgrade to the Avid bearing or similar..
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Old 01-14-2012, 05:39 PM   #3553
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Hey guys, running into a little bit of a problem with my build.

In putting together the trans and adding the internal (silver) spacer to the top shaft the bearing actually pushes out of the the plastic piece that holds the motor plate to the transmission and won't allow any top shaft movement.

Now if I take the spacer out everything goes together smooth and the transmission spins freely. I've been told the spacer does needs to go in there but for whatever reason it's just not working.

Anyone else have this problem?

Running the mid-motor 3 gear setup.

here is a picture of the problem, you can see the bearing pushing out and thats not even tight (or threaded). That's only pushed onto the lip of the actual gear box. if I tighten it up or even thread the top 2 motor plate screws it's almost an instant drive line bind.





thanks for any tips,recomendations.
I built my back up kit last week, and ran into this. I am sure by now, you figured it out, but the bearing inside the tranny needs to be in the other case half-opposite the slipper output shaft, otherwise the aluminum spacer will cause the outer bearing (pic) to not seat into the case..
If you are looking at the pic above, the bearing protruding is in the correct spot, but the inner bearing needs to be in the righthand side case half, otherwise the aluminum spacer will push the outer bearing out..
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Old 01-14-2012, 06:29 PM   #3554
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Thank you guys. I will update you all as soon as it is apart.
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Old 01-14-2012, 06:39 PM   #3555
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I have a shopping cart of items at amain but can't for the life of me find the X-ray clip on their site.
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