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Old 01-13-2012, 10:52 AM   #3526
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Those Associated o rings stretch around the top of the durango shocks. They are leaking from the top where they go together. No I don't think there are any burs on the shock caps. the o-rings are squishing out.
When the caps are installed on right the oring want squish out at all. I have my shock caps super tight an my orings don't stick out at all. Try install the cap again... it takes a couple tries to get them right sometimes.
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Old 01-13-2012, 10:58 AM   #3527
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I take a hobby knife and slightly bevel the inside edge. This pushes the ring inward and allows you to tighten them more.
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Old 01-13-2012, 11:03 AM   #3528
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Put some shock oil on the o-ring then tighten it down. Had the same problem the first couple of times
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Old 01-13-2012, 11:22 AM   #3529
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Put some shock oil on the o-ring then tighten it down. Had the same problem the first couple of times
+1

Allows it slip on the cap. Without a light coat of oil, the cap will grab it and it will move it around. Tighten it up by hand and you should be good.
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Old 01-13-2012, 11:57 AM   #3530
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Originally Posted by Atomicsickness View Post
I take a hobby knife and slightly bevel the inside edge. This pushes the ring inward and allows you to tighten them more.
I had to do the exact same thing to keep the oring from squishing out
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Old 01-13-2012, 11:57 AM   #3531
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I rebuilt my shocks with TL22 bladders last night instead of the TSR ones, for those running bladders, and they fit much better. No leaks, no shock rebound.

Also, rebuilt my SC10 gear diff with Mugen 10k oil. Feels a lot better on the bench than Losi 7k. Got my box of shims from A Main today as well. Currently running ten on each side, with the gear teeth backing cut out.

Racing tomorrow morning, so will be able to report on how I do with mid-motor finally in a race. As long as the track gets watered I think I should have a good chance of getting better traction than other buggies.

Also, picked up a Tekin RS because my Viper stopped working. Running it with my Trinity 6.5.
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Last edited by Autocratic; 01-13-2012 at 03:31 PM.
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Old 01-13-2012, 04:39 PM   #3532
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thanks for all the help guys
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Old 01-13-2012, 04:57 PM   #3533
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Honestly I think the shock cap o-rings are too small. I've been looking for some thicker ones.

Beveling the shock cap inside is a nice detail too. If I have more issues with my caps leaking I'll try that next. Although, mine haven't leaked since I first built them. I've just been having issues with the bladders leaking. Hopefully that issue is solved now with the TL22 bladders.
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Old 01-13-2012, 04:58 PM   #3534
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Autocratic View Post
I rebuilt my shocks with TL22 bladders last night instead of the TSR ones, for those running bladders, and they fit much better. No leaks, no shock rebound.

Also, rebuilt my SC10 gear diff with Mugen 10k oil. Feels a lot better on the bench than Losi 7k. Got my box of shims from A Main today as well. Currently running ten on each side, with the gear teeth backing cut out.

Racing tomorrow morning, so will be able to report on how I do with mid-motor finally in a race. As long as the track gets watered I think I should have a good chance of getting better traction than other buggies.

Also, picked up a Tekin RS because my Viper stopped working. Running it with my Trinity 6.5.
Have you used bladders before? I was thinking of trying them, but don't really need another area to do R&D..My shocks seem to want a refresh of oil a little more often than my "K" cars did..I am thinking its the cap orings letting some air in, as they dont feel real positively sealed.

Tekin and a 6.5 in a 2wd, you must be a heck of a driver to be able to hang on to that thing..
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Old 01-13-2012, 05:12 PM   #3535
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Autocratic View Post
I rebuilt my shocks with TL22 bladders last night instead of the TSR ones, for those running bladders, and they fit much better. No leaks, no shock rebound.

Also, rebuilt my SC10 gear diff with Mugen 10k oil. Feels a lot better on the bench than Losi 7k. Got my box of shims from A Main today as well. Currently running ten on each side, with the gear teeth backing cut out.

Racing tomorrow morning, so will be able to report on how I do with mid-motor finally in a race. As long as the track gets watered I think I should have a good chance of getting better traction than other buggies.

Also, picked up a Tekin RS because my Viper stopped working. Running it with my Trinity 6.5.
10k in the dif????? please get back to us on that!! i actually went as light as i possibly could and it feels much better than 2k in my yard track but tomorrow will be on an actual track wo we will see!! i am going to bring some 3 and 5k grease with me.
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Old 01-13-2012, 05:34 PM   #3536
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Anyone looking for a rarest of rare--a 4mm low torque rotor, I have one..
Durango DEX210 Thread-imag0232.jpg
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Old 01-13-2012, 05:43 PM   #3537
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Originally Posted by flame56mx View Post
Have you used bladders before? I was thinking of trying them, but don't really need another area to do R&D..My shocks seem to want a refresh of oil a little more often than my "K" cars did..I am thinking its the cap orings letting some air in, as they dont feel real positively sealed.

Tekin and a 6.5 in a 2wd, you must be a heck of a driver to be able to hang on to that thing..
I've used bladders before but it's been awhile. I was using the TSR bladders when I first built this buggy and they always seemed to leak. The TL22 ones seem to seal much better.

6.5 isn't as bad as you would think. I'm only running a little timing on the motor and that's it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MantisWorx View Post
10k in the dif????? please get back to us on that!! i actually went as light as i possibly could and it feels much better than 2k in my yard track but tomorrow will be on an actual track wo we will see!! i am going to bring some 3 and 5k grease with me.
I ran two complete days at the track on 3k and 7k. Both were controllable but with how slick the track has been this week I was getting too much "diffing out".

Overall I'm happy with the setup I ended up with Thursday. I really want to raise the rear roll center more but I've taken out all the shims. I was thinking of cutting the transmission case tabs down like 1mm or 2mm and see how it works.

Marcus, you using anti-roll bars yet? The kit I ordered for the DESC410 will work but the fronts need to be bent, and the rears need to be cut. Also, need to find a longer full-threaded screw to use for the mini-ballcups.

Quote:
Originally Posted by flame56mx View Post
Anyone looking for a rarest of rare--a 4mm low torque rotor, I have one..
Attachment 861754
Uh...free spin it at 100% or something? What rotor is that?
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Old 01-13-2012, 06:40 PM   #3538
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Looking for some suggestions to fix my screw up. I made the holes to big on the wing for the body post and now theres some movement in the wing. Do I need a new wing or is there a trick I cant think of to fix it?
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Old 01-13-2012, 06:49 PM   #3539
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Autocratic View Post
I've used bladders before but it's been awhile. I was using the TSR bladders when I first built this buggy and they always seemed to leak. The TL22 ones seem to seal much better.

6.5 isn't as bad as you would think. I'm only running a little timing on the motor and that's it.



I ran two complete days at the track on 3k and 7k. Both were controllable but with how slick the track has been this week I was getting too much "diffing out".

Overall I'm happy with the setup I ended up with Thursday. I really want to raise the rear roll center more but I've taken out all the shims. I was thinking of cutting the transmission case tabs down like 1mm or 2mm and see how it works.

Marcus, you using anti-roll bars yet? The kit I ordered for the DESC410 will work but the fronts need to be bent, and the rears need to be cut. Also, need to find a longer full-threaded screw to use for the mini-ballcups.



Uh...free spin it at 100% or something? What rotor is that?
nah, I was checking a speedo at about 50%, and it just locked..too many laps I guess..
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Old 01-13-2012, 07:22 PM   #3540
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Looking for some suggestions to fix my screw up. I made the holes to big on the wing for the body post and now theres some movement in the wing. Do I need a new wing or is there a trick I cant think of to fix it?
Make a new set of holes.

Moving the wing away from the tower will give you more rear traction. Moving towards gives less.
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