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Old 01-12-2012, 04:59 PM   #3496
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What? the ones in your kit were messed up?
Mine had some rust on them as well... only on one side, so i flipped it.
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Old 01-12-2012, 05:04 PM   #3497
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Nice vid and smooth driving Teeforb
That green buggy does not look like it's got 17.5 blinky.
Funny how he blasts thru the rythm section multiple times and take you out half the time.
Wish we had a 17.5 blinky at our local track.
We barely get any buggies to come out and it's almost always mod.
That looks like SDRC.. iv been there!

That guy in the green buggy was cracking me up.
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Old 01-12-2012, 05:05 PM   #3498
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Mine had some rust on them as well... only on one side, so i flipped it.
Lol, maybe the rust will be better with the ceramic balls..I usually always sand my rings, but my first car I didnt, car#2 I did..well see if there is any difference..Brandon, YGPM
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Old 01-12-2012, 05:35 PM   #3499
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx View Post
by shaving off the bottom of the cap it puts more pressure on the sealing surface of the bladder. the bottom of the cap stops on the shock body , not the bladder. no need for inserts with open bladder.
Received my Turnigy Nano-tech 6600mah 65C-130C battery. Weights right at 292g. 90g more than the shorties I have, but its full length in my current setup, and the extra weight might help my traction issues. Definitely a nice battery though.

Oh, you shaved off the bottom of the cap, not the body? That makes more sense. I bought the TL22 bladders today though too. Going to put them in tonight.

More mid-motor track report:

-Track has still not been watered daily so it is super slick right now but has a groove going already. I wore down two sets of tires bald already in one day.
-I'm down to 0mm rear inner shims and on the 3rd outer hole on the hub. This helped a lot with rear traction and kept the rear-end from rolling over as much.
-Battery all the way back against the motor helped keep the rear-end more planted. However, this makes the car bottom out easier.
-Back to Losi Red F/Losi Grey Rear. I'd really like a softer front spring but that's the lowest Losi goes, so going to have to order some Durango springs.
-Using the RW 81 spur now, with the AE pads. They fit snug enough so that you don't have to hold them in place with the slipper plates. Makes rebuilds easier.
-On the SC10 diff, I moved to 7k oil, and it was much better than 3k, but still not enough. I picked up 10k Mugen oil and going to run that on Saturday.
-I've lost a 2nd rear axle pin, which I then lost another rear wheel nut. It's always the one side. Going to try a drop of CA glue to hopefully hold them in.

Currently, I think this setup is working pretty good so far, but it's also getting better.

Front:
-37.5 oil, RCShox pistons, 1.2/1.3 6 hole
-Losi Red spring
-Inner shock/outer arm mount
-Full trailing axle
-35 caster
-2 camber
-slight toe out
-flipped inner tie-rod ballstud, forward hole, no shims on outer block. This eliminated most of the bump steer, but there is still slight toe-out bump steer. Not sure where to go from here to get rid of it.

-Rear:
-35 oil, 1.2/1.3 6 hole pistons
-Losi Grey spring
-no shims on inner mount
-1.5 anti-squat
-3.5 toe
-Hubs all the way forward
-middle/middle shock mount

Again, the setup still needs a lot of work, but it's getting close. I have a local guy that drove for XFactory and helped develop the X60 chassis, and he has a ton of knowledge on mid-motor cars, so hopefully going to talk to him in a few days and get some feedback.

Things I want to do still:
-Get rid of bump steer
-I want to raise the rear roll center more but not sure how. Might also move to the 4th outer hole on the hub.
-Going to move back to the 3 anti-squat bar.

If anyone has any suggestions on what I could do to improve rear traction (without going RM) I would appreciate any help.

Thanks.
-Auto
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Old 01-12-2012, 06:00 PM   #3500
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More mid-motor track report:


If anyone has any suggestions on what I could do to improve rear traction (without going RM) I would appreciate any help.

Thanks.
-Auto
I've only run the car in mm4 config on astro.

The x factory guys over here say the x6 has a weight distribution of about 65r/35f. When I weighed the car with a full size battery (4850mah nano tech) it had a weight distribution of about 60/40 (1610 grams total weight). I bought some short lipo packs from pro match racing and now the car is at 62/38 (1550 grams). After adapting the setup (higher roll center in the rear) to get some steering back, the car was a lot better than with full size lipos. A lot more grip, and much calmer to drive.

If you look at other mid motor cars (except the Losi 22), they all have saddles mounted in the back of the chassis. So I think more weight in the back is the way to go for the 210 in mm.
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Old 01-12-2012, 06:15 PM   #3501
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I've only run the car in mm4 config on astro.

The x factory guys over here say the x6 has a weight distribution of about 65r/35f. When I weighed the car with a full size battery (4850mah nano tech) it had a weight distribution of about 60/40 (1610 grams total weight). I bought some short lipo packs from pro match racing and now the car is at 62/38 (1550 grams). After adapting the setup (higher roll center in the rear) to get some steering back, the car was a lot better than with full size lipos. A lot more grip, and much calmer to drive.

If you look at other mid motor cars (except the Losi 22), they all have saddles mounted in the back of the chassis. So I think more weight in the back is the way to go for the 210 in mm.
You have any other suggestions on getting more rear roll center?
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Old 01-12-2012, 09:56 PM   #3502
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Here is my bumpsteer elimination mod... vuala, zero bump steer.

-The entire assembly needs to be shimmed up 2mm under the two pivot arms.

-Flat/short metric non-locking nuts underneath the ackerman plate

-1mm spacer under the inner ball studs. Spacer height under the inner ball studs JUST high enough to keep the bottom of the ballstud from poking out the bottom of the nut ...needs to be flush (MAKE SURE TO USE BLUE LOCKTITE!) Clearance is VERY close to the control arms. I am currently running the rear ackerman hole (not set on it, but seems to provide very smooth steering)



-2mm normal-ol outer bumpsteer washers.

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Last edited by Cpt.America; 01-19-2012 at 11:07 PM.
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Old 01-12-2012, 10:51 PM   #3503
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Mine had some rust on them as well... only on one side, so i flipped it.
yea kit diff rings were pretty rusted. Sanded em good and the diff is beautiful. Never had good luck with ceramic diff balls they always seem to slip no matter how tight you went. With the tightness this diff requires I couldn't see ceramics working.


Car seems really good so far, very easy to drive and pretty smooth.
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Old 01-12-2012, 10:52 PM   #3504
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yea kit diff rings were pretty rusted. Sanded em good and the diff is beautiful. Never had good luck with ceramic diff balls they always seem to slip no matter how tight you went. With the tightness this diff requires I couldn't see ceramics working.


Car seems really good so far, very easy to drive and pretty smooth.
No, ceramics don't work very well. They do in the thrust however... for the 3mm balls, I am running carbides and they are flawless. The rust on my rings were not along the diff ball path, so it didn't affect the diff, sanded or not.
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Old 01-12-2012, 11:03 PM   #3505
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Here is a quick question if anyone has an opinion.

Im running custom 4 hole pistons , front is 30 associated oil losi orange spring

rear is 25 associated oil losi yellow spring

short lipo all the way forward.

The car feels bouncy in the front and feels like the front wheels easily leave the ground causing no steering for a brief second usally at the worst possible time.

Do you think the problem is the front or the rear, dont want to drasticaly change anything as the car feels reall good.

Thanks
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Old 01-12-2012, 11:06 PM   #3506
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
Here is my bumpsteer elimination mod... vuala, zero bump steer.

flat/short metric non-locking nuts underneith, 1mm spacer under the inner ballstuds. Spacer height JUST high enough to keep the bottom of the ballstud from poking out the bottom of the nut...needs to be flush (MAKE SURE TO USE BLUE LOCKTITE!) Clearance is VERY close to the control arms. I am currently running the rear ackerman hole (not set on it, but seems to provide very smooth steering)


2mm normal-ol outer bumpsteer washers.

I was thinking about this myself but then when I looked a Fischer's car a couple weeks ago i noticed he already mounted his rack below the bellcranks, but i think he was running 4-5mm spacers in between the ballstuds and the rack and no spacers on the steering spindles.
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Old 01-13-2012, 01:43 AM   #3507
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can someone help me on a part number for the shockboots / dustcovers that will fit the BB shocks on the dex210
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Old 01-13-2012, 01:50 AM   #3508
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http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ock-Boot-Set-2

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ock-Boot-Set-2
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Old 01-13-2012, 02:37 AM   #3509
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Does anyone know where I can buy 8-Racing carbon parts for the 210, they don't have any distributers in North America
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Old 01-13-2012, 02:39 AM   #3510
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also what carbon parts are best quality and the strongest diggity, akula, or 8 racing, are there any other brands?
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