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Old 01-10-2012, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America
Heheh.. D... such a nerd
lol, man, your probably right, is it that obvious though?
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Old 01-10-2012, 04:34 PM
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Default RCshox gear case fix prototype

One of our faithful members was gracious enough to send me his broken gear case for a fix. so i came up with this:

Instead of tying on to the already weak gear case, this one mounts in the place of the rear sway bar mount and i even countersunk the M3 nyloc washers!! It is about a mm shorter but you can either space up at the ball stud or put spacers under the mount. We all know how much of a pain it is assembling that factory sway bar mount, this is MUCH easier! i also included three different mounting point for more tuning abilities.





I will test this weekend (although i suspect nothing could possibly go wrong and its definately not going to break) PM me if you are interested, i can do a pre-order on the site for them.
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Old 01-10-2012, 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by onekiwi
Looked at his car and it wasn't set up like what he wrote, he left a couple of things out, suppose they still have to have their little secrets
Alright so spill the beans my friend. The car looks great in that video.
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Old 01-10-2012, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx
One of our faithful members was gracious enough to send me his broken gear case for a fix. so i came up with this:

Instead of tying on to the already weak gear case, this one mounts in the place of the rear sway bar mount and i even countersunk the M3 nyloc washers!! It is about a mm shorter but you can either space up at the ball stud or put spacers under the mount. We all know how much of a pain it is assembling that factory sway bar mount, this is MUCH easier! i also included three different mounting point for more tuning abilities.





I will test this weekend (although i suspect nothing could possibly go wrong and its definately not going to break) PM me if you are interested, i can do a pre-order on the site for them.
looks good! keep up the good work
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Old 01-10-2012, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx
One of our faithful members was gracious enough to send me his broken gear case for a fix. so i came up with this:

Instead of tying on to the already weak gear case, this one mounts in the place of the rear sway bar mount and i even countersunk the M3 nyloc washers!! It is about a mm shorter but you can either space up at the ball stud or put spacers under the mount. We all know how much of a pain it is assembling that factory sway bar mount, this is MUCH easier! i also included three different mounting point for more tuning abilities.
I will test this weekend (although i suspect nothing could possibly go wrong and its definately not going to break) PM me if you are interested, i can do a pre-order on the site for them.
Looks like a definite cure to the problem, one that I have not had yet. I do like the other ballstud locations, and yes that sway bar mount thing is such a PNA, I Ca'ed mine in place..lol let us know the results..
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Old 01-10-2012, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by flame56mx
Looks like a definite cure to the problem, one that I have not had yet. I do like the other ballstud locations, and yes that sway bar mount thing is such a PNA, I Ca'ed mine in place..lol let us know the results..
CA's wont hold long..... and x10000 on that idea, Mantis... looks like how it should of been designed from durango... the ballstud mount NEEDS to be modular.
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Old 01-10-2012, 06:24 PM
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Marcus,

Nice piece there. I like it. I'd be in for one just in case

I did some testing again today. Moved from Losi Orange to Red fronts, 25 to 37.5 oil front, and 20 to 35 rear. Moved the ackermann to the forward hole and got rid of most of my bump steer, and 0mm on the rear roll center. Definitely made the car feel better and wasn't so twitchy down the straight.

My SC10 diff needs thicker oil. If I get the rear-end unsettled under power it lights up the unloaded tire too much. Probably going to move from 3k to 7k oil and see how it works.

Also, if anyone is interested in running the SC10 diff, HPI makes shims that fit perfect. #Z892. Buy to packs. Be sure to shim the side of the diff with the backing on the teeth more as you need to center the idle gear first.

For whatever reason, someone at Mike's wanted to start grooving the track, so it didn't get watered, and had no rear traction at all, which doesn't help when trying to get a MM4 setup going.

I'm rebuilding the car tonight to get everything cleaned, and I'm going to change everything to kit specs, which exception of motor position and shocks. My front toe and camber is really funky; been having trouble getting them set where I want.

-Auto
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Old 01-10-2012, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America
CA's wont hold long..... and x10000 on that idea, Mantis... looks like how it should of been designed from durango... the ballstud mount NEEDS to be modular.
I meant the little sway bar holder with the locknuts in it..
Durango DEX210 Thread-imag0230.jpg
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Old 01-10-2012, 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by flame56mx
I meant the little sway bar holder with the locknuts in it..
oh oh ... yeah..sorry, heh... did you glue the entire piece down? I glued the lock nuts into the carrier.. but the carrier itself is still loose.
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Old 01-10-2012, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Autocratic
Marcus,

Nice piece there. I like it. I'd be in for one just in case

I did some testing again today. Moved from Losi Orange to Red fronts, 25 to 37.5 oil front, and 20 to 35 rear. Moved the ackermann to the forward hole and got rid of most of my bump steer, and 0mm on the rear roll center. Definitely made the car feel better and wasn't so twitchy down the straight.

My SC10 diff needs thicker oil. If I get the rear-end unsettled under power it lights up the unloaded tire too much. Probably going to move from 3k to 7k oil and see how it works.

Also, if anyone is interested in running the SC10 diff, HPI makes shims that fit perfect. #Z892. Buy to packs. Be sure to shim the side of the diff with the backing on the teeth more as you need to center the idle gear first.

For whatever reason, someone at Mike's wanted to start grooving the track, so it didn't get watered, and had no rear traction at all, which doesn't help when trying to get a MM4 setup going.

I'm rebuilding the car tonight to get everything cleaned, and I'm going to change everything to kit specs, which exception of motor position and shocks. My front toe and camber is really funky; been having trouble getting them set where I want.

-Auto
on the dif i just took a razor blade an cut the barrier off of the gear teeth by teeth and now i dont have to worry about shimming it any particular way!
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Old 01-10-2012, 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America
oh oh ... yeah..sorry, heh... did you glue the entire piece down? I glued the lock nuts into the carrier.. but the carrier itself is still loose.
Yeah, it should come loose if I need it to, but only if I need it to..lol

Marcus, put me on the list for one of those also, pm me if/when you need some $$
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Old 01-10-2012, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Autocratic
I did some testing again today....

-Auto
For what it's worth, I've had just about that same exact set up for the last 2 weeks (other than your ackerman/bumpsteer adjustments) on a medium/high-bite track and have had great results. 5K oil in the Associated gear diff is working. Glad to see it's not just me liking this.
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Old 01-10-2012, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Dog Runner
For what it's worth, I've had just about that same exact set up for the last 2 weeks (other than your ackerman/bumpsteer adjustments) on a medium/high-bite track and have had great results. 5K oil in the Associated gear diff is working. Glad to see it's not just me liking this.
5k in the dif??? wow, i had 2k and didnt like it at all, it seemed darty and wanted to follow the track and by that i mean if the track was high in the center it would dart off to whichever side it was on on acceleration. changed to the ball dif on the spot and it stopped??? i just put the gear dif back in today but only put the AE black grease in this time. are you on an indoor smooth track?
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Old 01-10-2012, 07:49 PM
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What pinion should I start with for an 8.5 with the stock 87t spur?
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Old 01-10-2012, 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Dog Runner
For what it's worth, I've had just about that same exact set up for the last 2 weeks (other than your ackerman/bumpsteer adjustments) on a medium/high-bite track and have had great results. 5K oil in the Associated gear diff is working. Glad to see it's not just me liking this.
For me, I had to make the bumpsteer changes; the car was just all over the place.

With the 5k oil, how much resistance is there to opposing rotation? With 3k is really smooth, but really like on the tension.

Originally Posted by Racerx336
What pinion should I start with for an 8.5 with the stock 87t spur?
I'm running 81/25 at Mikes with a 6.5. You can ream out a JConcepts B4.1 spur, and use the AE pads. They're thicker too.

If you want to try it out I have a few RW spurs coming Thursday so I'll have an extra.

Btw, you going to race Saturday?
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