Originally Posted by Autocratic

Edit: Setup sheet PDF is too big. If anyone would like to try it PM me your email.

So today I did some testing on a fresh setup

-1/8" front toe out
-0° front camber
-30° caster
-full inline axle
-3mm bump steer
-Upper camber links level
-25wt oil
-1.2/1.3 pistons

-3.5° rear toe in
-1° rear camber
-Swapped rear hubs so ballstuds face forward
-Rear hub all the way back in arm
-Driveshafts level
-20wt oil
1.2/1.3 pistons

-MM4
-Trinity D3 6.5 +2 marks on timing
-81 JConcepts AE spur/25 pinion
-No ESC timing
-Started the day on kit springs f/r
-Ended with Losi Orange/Losi Grey
-Made custom foam inserts to move the battery around in different places

On a medium bite track that gets dusty once try, I think I have something going here.

-Mid motor the buggy jumps soo much better than rear motor.
-Throttle/brake in the air is more reactive when adjusting flight.
-I can put down the power very well given the motor turn. Mid motor doesn't allow the buggy to wheelie as easy.
-With my current setup, the car hardly bottoms out when jumping, and is very level over a lot of big dips on the track that most cars bottom on.
-The car has a lot of steering. Almost too much, but it will go where you want it.

Things I'd like to change:
-Front/rear end I want more reactive to bumpy parts
-Would like the rear-end shocks to soak-up bumps and whoop sections rather than dancing
-Need slightly more rear-end grip
-Need less weight transfer to the front under drag & voluntary braking

Things I would like to try:
-Heavier oil all around
-Front and/or rear sway bar
-Lower roll resistance rear
-Higher roll resistance front

Marcus, You PM'ed me some settings to start with, and would love some input from you. I have an idea on how to change the four things above with a few adjustments, but need some clarification since I have your pistons.

***Also, I need a readily available gear or ball diff replacement. My current diff feels like it's built with rocks (long story), but has everything to do with me leaving a certain part out during rebuild.

-Auto

Originally Posted by netmaster

Is there anyway to see the front shock tower mounted? I'm interested to see the position of the front inner camber links. Does it change their length and angle?

Originally Posted by kwiksi

Full inline will give the most aggressive steering per Durangos tuning info below. Try going back to trailing.
http://www.team-durango.com/blog/201...-insert-guide/

You running two stage pistons? How may holes? Oil seems really light.

Originally Posted by kwiksi

Full inline will give the most aggressive steering per Durangos tuning info below. Try going back to trailing.
http://www.team-durango.com/blog/201...-insert-guide/

You running two stage pistons? How may holes? Oil seems really light.

Could also go to RM3 like most of us....would better suit "a medium bite track that gets dusty"

Originally Posted by MantisWorx

2 stage pistons pack differently than single stage , you use lighter fluid which aids in handling over the small bumps but give you more pack on the big stuff. you cannot tune them like single stage, especially on the bench!

sway bars would be great for my setup too i cant seem to find a good balance with it its just to edgy in the front. is there a kit out yet?

Originally Posted by Autocratic

I forgot to add that. Running 6 hole.

I switched from RM3 to MM4 because I didn't like the way RM drove. Also, the 210 is really built to be a MM buggy, and I want to be able to take full advantage of its options.

I'll try trailing. Should I move one at a time or start at full trailing?



This should work with all the smaller open ball cups that came with the kit. I'll know more tomorrow when it gets here. I'll post up pictures. Probably start with the smallest on each end.

I ordered the last kit they had in stock. Sorry :P

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...i-Roll-Bar-Set

Marcus,

You have any ideas on my setup and what I could change?

Originally Posted by Cpt.America

HUGE changes to the buggy tonight fellas. I think at least 50% of the pushing issue with this car are geometry problems with the front end due to bump steer and ackerman issues which result in the front tires scrubbing rather than gripping.

Testing and details tomorrow.

Originally Posted by Cpt.America

HUGE changes to the buggy tonight fellas. I think at least 50% of the pushing issue with this car are geometry problems with the front end due to bump steer and ackerman issues which result in the front tires scrubbing rather than gripping.

Testing and details tomorrow.

Originally Posted by MantisWorx

funny, i have entirely too much steering everywhere!! trying to tame it down. turned my servo speed down and gained almost 2sec a lap immediately!!

Originally Posted by flame56mx

I agree once again, I picked up a slower servo, and run my epa @ about 80%...I still have a tick of on power push in the real tighties though..

Originally Posted by MantisWorx

, i have 5mm of front Roll center shims and it still grabs on entry,.

Originally Posted by Autocratic

Wait, how does raising the the front inner ballstud lower the front roll center? That just doesn't make any sense.

Originally Posted by Cpt.America

Well of course it does.. 5mm of roll center shims will lower the hell out of the front roll center. Your front end will be diving like mad all over the place. Off power your car's front end will over-roll, and then it will push on-power. That would be an unbalanced setup, and sounds like it would be a handfull to drive.

If you want less bite in the front, you need to raise the roll center in the front by reducing washers under the inner ball studs. It will make the car develop less overall traction, but responsiveness will increase in the lower speed sections of the track..