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Old 01-08-2012, 11:46 AM   #3361
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I had thought the ribbed tires might work up front but your probably right I should change my front tires to something else with some bite
IMO different front tires wont help much for a on power push, rear end is getting too much traction and making the front end light, at least that is what I found, unless you are having a lack of steering off power also..
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Old 01-08-2012, 12:39 PM   #3362
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I run on an outdoor 1/8 scale track medium size medium to loose bite. Just seems like she is pushing really far in the corners
Add a 1/4 oz weight to the front of the car and you will have no more push on power. I placed it behind the front bumper.
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Old 01-08-2012, 01:00 PM   #3363
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thanks I'll try adding weight to the front. Another question is how is my gearing its 28/75. I'm just wondering if I'm geared to tall or am I undergeared or just right. Drives great with that gearing but I broke a drive shaft before I ran long enought to shoot a temp. So I'm waiting on a new one to come in
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Old 01-08-2012, 01:37 PM   #3364
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Imo you are about 5 teeth overgeared, I would start with about 25/84 and go up from there if temps allow it.
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Old 01-08-2012, 01:44 PM   #3365
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thanks I'll try adding weight to the front. Another question is how is my gearing its 28/75. I'm just wondering if I'm geared to tall or am I undergeared or just right. Drives great with that gearing but I broke a drive shaft before I ran long enought to shoot a temp. So I'm waiting on a new one to come in
way over geared. 24-25/81
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Old 01-08-2012, 01:46 PM   #3366
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any tips on how to get rid of some of the on power push in corners. I'm running RM3 and using J Concepts Rounders up front. For power I'm running a Tekin 8.5.
Try adding weight in the nose and or move rear hubs back.
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Old 01-08-2012, 04:28 PM   #3367
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I will be purchasing this car in the next day and wondering what pinion/spur setup should I run roughly with the mm4 setup on an 8.5.
Will be running on a high traction track if that is needed information.

Any input is appreciated.

Thanks
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Old 01-08-2012, 04:34 PM   #3368
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Do the Rango slipper pads fit the ae spur? Or do I need to pick up ae pads too?
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Old 01-08-2012, 04:45 PM   #3369
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Do the Rango slipper pads fit the ae spur? Or do I need to pick up ae pads too?

The rango's are just a bit smaller, I would pick up the AE pads.
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Old 01-08-2012, 05:22 PM   #3370
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Edit: Setup sheet PDF is too big. If anyone would like to try it PM me your email.

So today I did some testing on a fresh setup

-1/8" front toe out
-0 front camber
-30 caster
-full inline axle
-3mm bump steer
-Upper camber links level
-25wt oil
-1.2/1.3 pistons

-3.5 rear toe in
-1 rear camber
-Swapped rear hubs so ballstuds face forward
-Rear hub all the way back in arm
-Driveshafts level
-20wt oil
1.2/1.3 pistons

-MM4
-Trinity D3 6.5 +2 marks on timing
-81 JConcepts AE spur/25 pinion
-No ESC timing
-Started the day on kit springs f/r
-Ended with Losi Orange/Losi Grey
-Made custom foam inserts to move the battery around in different places

On a medium bite track that gets dusty once try, I think I have something going here.

-Mid motor the buggy jumps soo much better than rear motor.
-Throttle/brake in the air is more reactive when adjusting flight.
-I can put down the power very well given the motor turn. Mid motor doesn't allow the buggy to wheelie as easy.
-With my current setup, the car hardly bottoms out when jumping, and is very level over a lot of big dips on the track that most cars bottom on.
-The car has a lot of steering. Almost too much, but it will go where you want it.

Things I'd like to change:
-Front/rear end I want more reactive to bumpy parts
-Would like the rear-end shocks to soak-up bumps and whoop sections rather than dancing
-Need slightly more rear-end grip
-Need less weight transfer to the front under drag & voluntary braking

Things I would like to try:
-Heavier oil all around
-Front and/or rear sway bar
-Lower roll resistance rear
-Higher roll resistance front

Marcus, You PM'ed me some settings to start with, and would love some input from you. I have an idea on how to change the four things above with a few adjustments, but need some clarification since I have your pistons.

***Also, I need a readily available gear or ball diff replacement. My current diff feels like it's built with rocks (long story), but has everything to do with me leaving a certain part out during rebuild.

-Auto

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Last edited by Autocratic; 01-08-2012 at 07:19 PM.
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Old 01-08-2012, 06:06 PM   #3371
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4mm front shock tower, battery strap and steering rack / drag link are now available from Diggity Designs. Please check the website for more information, here are some pictures -





Is there anyway to see the front shock tower mounted? I'm interested to see the position of the front inner camber links. Does it change their length and angle?
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Old 01-08-2012, 06:07 PM   #3372
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Originally Posted by redracerd View Post
put 30wt. oil in front and 25wt. oil in rear. use 22 springs all way around red in front and yellow in rear. used a full size battery. the car worked great in 17.5 class
+1 basically my setup as well.
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Old 01-08-2012, 06:09 PM   #3373
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Originally Posted by nolimit208 View Post
I will be purchasing this car in the next day and wondering what pinion/spur setup should I run roughly with the mm4 setup on an 8.5.
Will be running on a high traction track if that is needed information.

Any input is appreciated.

Thanks
81 / 23 is where I started out. temps come off 110* at Trackside Milwaukee.
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Old 01-08-2012, 06:26 PM   #3374
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just in case anyone would be interested, brand new DEX210 for sale. Decided not to do it, so up for sale it goes.

Team Durango DEX210
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Old 01-08-2012, 07:16 PM   #3375
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81 / 23 is where I started out. temps come off 110* at Trackside Milwaukee.
thank you. I cant find a 81 available and dont want to dremal an AE one so will pick up an 83 but go try an 24 to start will be alittle quicker but the tracks I'll be running on are somewhat small. I just needed to figure out a starting point so when i order the car i can order in a couple pinions to play with.
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