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Old 01-07-2012, 08:40 PM   #3346
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Anyone making the rear kick up plates
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Old 01-07-2012, 08:46 PM   #3347
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Tresrey has one coming in 2/3 in early February probably, and there is a guy in the UK that made the 3/3 that he posted in this forum. I've PM'd him several times though and no response.

IMO, its a must have upgrade. The stock kickup plastic is just way too soft. I've gone through two already.
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Old 01-07-2012, 11:36 PM   #3348
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Originally Posted by RacerMike42 View Post
I had it like that initially (in the rear thumbscrew position) but the chassis support has that notch in it so it doesnt sit on the battery brace. if the chassis brace didnt have the notch it would be fine.

I removed my CF brace and moved the battery strap to the rear position so you can see what I mean.

It has that notch to allow for different height batteries....with my Racers Edge shorty packs in my 210, the stock battery strap is almost snug against that notch. It's really a non issue that the strap doesnt fit snug under the rear brace though since the strap is pretty tight when the thumbscrews are in place. I actually ran an RB5 carbon strap in my Tamiya that never fit under the rear bulkhead and never had an issue with it.
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Old 01-07-2012, 11:43 PM   #3349
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Originally Posted by Autocratic View Post
Tresrey has one coming in 2/3 in early February probably, and there is a guy in the UK that made the 3/3 that he posted in this forum. I've PM'd him several times though and no response.

IMO, its a must have upgrade. The stock kickup plastic is just way too soft. I've gone through two already.
How are you guys breaking the rear kick up block? Any pics? Just curious cause I haven't any problems with mine and took a very hard hit to the rear suspension and it broke the arm out by the hub. Do you guys have a lot of slop in the arm at that pivot/hinge pin? Mine only has about .5mm of movement.
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Old 01-07-2012, 11:58 PM   #3350
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My first 3/3 block cracked on all the way through the RR pivot hole. It was ready to break completely.

My second block, 1.5/3, did the same thing, but was on the side of the LR pivot hole.

I was at my LHS tonight and there was a guy racing with a 210 and his RR ripped completely out of the pivot hole. That was his second block as well.

The material is just too soft. His buggy doesn't have any slop in the suspension. I have slight slop in different places and really don't have any shims that would fill the gaps.
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Old 01-08-2012, 05:45 AM   #3351
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Originally Posted by SHAUN GRIDER View Post
Anyone making the rear kick up plates
Look at page 174 in this thread.

I bought one and it fits perfectly. Its an awesome piece. Check it out! He's also located in Illinois.
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Old 01-08-2012, 05:48 AM   #3352
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I have not broke a pickup plate but a guy at the track broke 2 of them it is pulling the pin out the side the hole is where the hinge pin goes is where it
Is happening
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Old 01-08-2012, 07:32 AM   #3353
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any tips on how to get rid of some of the on power push in corners. I'm running RM3 and using J Concepts Rounders up front. For power I'm running a Tekin 8.5.
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Old 01-08-2012, 07:44 AM   #3354
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any tips on how to get rid of some of the on power push in corners. I'm running RM3 and using J Concepts Rounders up front. For power I'm running a Tekin 8.5.
you try or have any other front tire ? big fan of PL scrubs and AKA rebars

you can also try adding a little weight up front or move battery forward if you think u have the right tire
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Old 01-08-2012, 07:49 AM   #3355
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are you running the front axles trailing or inline ?
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Old 01-08-2012, 08:11 AM   #3356
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hopsing View Post
How are you guys breaking the rear kick up block? Any pics? Just curious cause I haven't any problems with mine and took a very hard hit to the rear suspension and it broke the arm out by the hub. Do you guys have a lot of slop in the arm at that pivot/hinge pin? Mine only has about .5mm of movement.
I haven't had any problems with mine either, my car has been very durable, but I run on a tight lower, speed track..

Quote:
Originally Posted by jurquhart View Post
any tips on how to get rid of some of the on power push in corners. I'm running RM3 and using J Concepts Rounders up front. For power I'm running a Tekin 8.5.
There are a few ways, as I ran into this myself initially, and now mine has almost too much low speed steering and a small amt of on power push, but its really manageable, what type of soil/track do you run on?
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Old 01-08-2012, 09:12 AM   #3357
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jurquhart View Post
any tips on how to get rid of some of the on power push in corners. I'm running RM3 and using J Concepts Rounders up front. For power I'm running a Tekin 8.5.
I moved my hubs all the way forward and that made a huge diff. But I would try tire frt tires
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Old 01-08-2012, 11:09 AM   #3358
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Default in door set up

put 30wt. oil in front and 25wt. oil in rear. use 22 springs all way around red in front and yellow in rear. used a full size battery. the car worked great in 17.5 class
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Old 01-08-2012, 11:15 AM   #3359
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Originally Posted by flame56mx View Post
There are a few ways, as I ran into this myself initially, and now mine has almost too much low speed steering and a small amt of on power push, but its really manageable, what type of soil/track do you run on?
I run on an outdoor 1/8 scale track medium size medium to loose bite. Just seems like she is pushing really far in the corners
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Old 01-08-2012, 11:17 AM   #3360
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom235 View Post
I moved my hubs all the way forward and that made a huge diff. But I would try tire frt tires
Quote:
Originally Posted by rkhess View Post
you try or have any other front tire ? big fan of PL scrubs and AKA rebars

you can also try adding a little weight up front or move battery forward if you think u have the right tire
I had thought the ribbed tires might work up front but your probably right I should change my front tires to something else with some bite
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