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Old 01-04-2012, 12:56 AM   #3241
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The plastic spacers are also pretty crap. I have the aluminum gold spacers on order to replace everything + extras.
what are the partnumbers? the alu gold spacers
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Old 01-04-2012, 02:12 AM   #3242
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http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...k-Spacer-Set-4

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...k-Spacer-Set-4
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Old 01-04-2012, 05:50 AM   #3243
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wow those little spacers are expensive but I bet they would look nice
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Old 01-04-2012, 08:02 AM   #3244
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Does anyone know a good final drive ratio for the 210 with a 6.5T?

If I geared the car 81S/26P that would give the car an 8.06 FDR per the 2.6:1 transmission. I am not familiar with a good FDR for off road; Any help would be greatly appreciated! Oh and btw I am assuming the car comes with an 87T spur stock based on what I've read here. Is this correct? Thanks guys
81/26 is a little high for a 6.5, I gear my 7.5 at 81/23 which is around a 9.1 final drive..... I would prob start your gearing around 81-21 and go up or down a tooth depending on track size, how it feels, and motor temp after a run.
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Old 01-04-2012, 08:35 AM   #3245
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If you want spacers get the hiro seiko spacers

I got mine from xfactoryrc in the UK 2 for 6 spacers (I think)

They come in a 3 paired pack 2/3/4 etc



THere are more colours and different sizes

Here found the US distributor, cheaper than what I paid
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Old 01-04-2012, 08:39 AM   #3246
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This is a few days late, but you should have no problem getting more ride height than that with the kit springs. I measure my ride height right under the trans and basically right under the servo and have mine set at 24mm with the stock springs.... and yes the adjusters in the rear are pretty near maxed out, but there is still some adjustment left in them. Make sure your shocks arent binding, with no oil in them, they should feel pretty smooth with very little drag on them. Also make sure your suspension is free with no binding when the shocks are off the car...the rear hubs are a tight fit, if you just shove all the shims in it will probably bind up. I had to run a file slightly on my hubs to free it up before final assembly because it was pretty tight and wouldnt allow the suspension to move freely on its own.
A good answer is never to late.. Will definately recheck the possible binding bits.

Cheers for the tip..
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Old 01-04-2012, 09:18 AM   #3247
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wow those little spacers are expensive but I bet they would look nice
i used the losi ones since the durango's were BO. the losi number is TLR6019
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Old 01-04-2012, 10:35 AM   #3248
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Couple of questions for you guys.

I just ordered a DEX210 to get back into 2wd buggy for the winter months. I am planning on running the new Viper system with an 8.5. What would be a good starting point as far as gearing?

Also, I am going to be running full size lipo packs, so what is a good starting shock setup for the car while keeping that in mind? Are there any popular spots where people are adding weight to the buggy? I will mostly be running on a medium traction indoor track with rather large jumps.

Thanks in advance!
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Old 01-04-2012, 10:52 AM   #3249
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sent you pm racerx336
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Old 01-04-2012, 11:32 AM   #3250
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21-23t is a good starting point with the 8.5 i'm currently running the 22t.
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Old 01-04-2012, 12:08 PM   #3251
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Couple of questions for you guys.

I just ordered a DEX210 to get back into 2wd buggy for the winter months. I am planning on running the new Viper system with an 8.5. What would be a good starting point as far as gearing?

Also, I am going to be running full size lipo packs, so what is a good starting shock setup for the car while keeping that in mind? Are there any popular spots where people are adding weight to the buggy? I will mostly be running on a medium traction indoor track with rather large jumps.

Thanks in advance!
If your budget allows I would really consider some shorty packs. The ability to move the weight around in the chassis is a major plus, and honestly made a huge improvement in how the car feels/drives. With a full size pack there was so much weight in the back that the car always felt too locked down in the rear, causing a push on corner entry. The shorty allowed made the car steer in much better while still having enough rear traction to confidently drive through the corner.
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Old 01-04-2012, 12:19 PM   #3252
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i used the losi ones since the durango's were BO. the losi number is TLR6019
+1.. this is what I built my car useing
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Old 01-04-2012, 01:00 PM   #3253
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If your budget allows I would really consider some shorty packs. The ability to move the weight around in the chassis is a major plus, and honestly made a huge improvement in how the car feels/drives. With a full size pack there was so much weight in the back that the car always felt too locked down in the rear, causing a push on corner entry. The shorty allowed made the car steer in much better while still having enough rear traction to confidently drive through the corner.
+1
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Old 01-04-2012, 01:42 PM   #3254
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Originally Posted by Jonny5 View Post
If your budget allows I would really consider some shorty packs. The ability to move the weight around in the chassis is a major plus, and honestly made a huge improvement in how the car feels/drives. With a full size pack there was so much weight in the back that the car always felt too locked down in the rear, causing a push on corner entry. The shorty allowed made the car steer in much better while still having enough rear traction to confidently drive through the corner.
I plan to try short packs soon, but at the moment, 1/10 is really just something for me to use for fun as well as practice and driving time rather than putting tons of time on my 1/8th stuff. Im sure I will get back into it and get deeper and deeper though, it always happens!
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Old 01-04-2012, 09:55 PM   #3255
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Can you tell me who makes those offset turnbuckles in the pic?
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