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Old 12-26-2011, 07:15 PM   #3076
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I'm having a hard time finding good high C shorty packs. The biggest I have found so far is 70C.
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Old 12-26-2011, 07:25 PM   #3077
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Originally Posted by JOJOHAMBONE View Post
Hi im building my 210 and im doing the turnbuckles and noticed on the left side the drive shaft end is huitting the t-nut it pushes the camber out positively so i cant have negitive camber. is this normal because i havent got done to break in my diff my diff is tight so should it be in farther. and dont know if when i break it in and i will probly have to tighten it more if it will go in more. i used team durangos diff build guide to build the diff.
thanks Blake
I'm having the same problem, so is the consensus to tighten the diff more? Mine was pretty tight when I put it in, I'm afraid to tighten it more.
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Old 12-26-2011, 07:25 PM   #3078
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I'm having a hard time finding good high C shorty packs. The biggest I have found so far is 70C.
Are you running blinky? Why the need for massive C rating? I often see mod guys running a lower C rated pack to take some of the initial rip away.

Also keep in mind that C ratings are totally subjective as there is no industry standard used as a benchmark for rating packs. What's more important than a manufacturers claimed C rating is the actual vs. claimed capacity and voltage drop over the course of a run. FWIW, the racer's edge packs took almost 4100mah when run down to cut off and during a 6min timed run held just over 8 volts afterwards. Paired with a GT 2.0 Pro and an SP 8.5 the car never lacked for power and would wheelie at will.
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Old 12-26-2011, 07:28 PM   #3079
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I'm having a hard time finding good high C shorty packs. The biggest I have found so far is 70C.
Wow, 70c should be more than enough, I can't remember seeing anything higher than that, but 40c should suffice. Unless you are running stock, you shouldn't really need that high C rated pack.
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Old 12-26-2011, 07:36 PM   #3080
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I'm having the same problem, so is the consensus to tighten the diff more? Mine was pretty tight when I put it in, I'm afraid to tighten it more.
The diff in the 210 seems to get set tighter than others (that I've built at least), but stays buttery smooth if built and broke in properly. If everything is built right, the only thing that can cause the diff nut to hit the dogbone is the diff not being tight enough.
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Old 12-26-2011, 07:37 PM   #3081
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I usually break in my diff before I install it in the tranny, save time at the track, and everything is seated in before I make a run, and less of the Ooops, I forgot to tighten my diff. I chuck it up in my cordless drill before I even tighten it down too tight, and go forward for 20sec, and then reverse for 20 sec,holding the non chucked diff half from moving -flip and do the same to the other side.Tighten a 1/8 to 1/4 turn and repeat until it feels good. Take a little time and it will seat the washers and rings without flatspotting the balls (ouch) and it will last a long time-I have prob 25-30 runs on mine, and it still feels great. If/when it starts feeling gritty, regrease or replace the thrust bearing, as it is usually the first to go..
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Old 12-26-2011, 07:42 PM   #3082
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I usually break in my diff before I install it in the tranny, save time at the track, and everything is seated in before I make a run, and less of the Ooops, I forgot to tighten my diff. I chuck it up in my cordless drill before I even tighten it down too tight, and go forward for 20sec, and then reverse for 20 sec,holding the non chucked diff half from moving -flip and do the same to the other side.Tighten a 1/8 to 1/4 turn and repeat until it feels good. Take a little time and it will seat the washers and rings without flatspotting the balls (ouch) and it will last a long time-I have prob 25-30 runs on mine, and it still feels great. If/when it starts feeling gritty, regrease or replace the thrust bearing, as it is usually the first to go..
I do mine the same way. In the rare event that there is an issue with the diff build during break in you don't need to take it back out of the car, just pop the screw out and check it out.
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Old 12-26-2011, 07:44 PM   #3083
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The diff in the 210 seems to get set tighter than others (that I've built at least), but stays buttery smooth if built and broke in properly. If everything is built right, the only thing that can cause the diff nut to hit the dogbone is the diff not being tight enough.
Thanks i will tighten my diff some more.
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Old 12-26-2011, 08:02 PM   #3084
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my diff i tightened it all the way and the dogbone is still hitting, do i need to take the diff out any ideas what could be wrong?
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Old 12-26-2011, 08:03 PM   #3085
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anyone try a gear diff yet?
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Old 12-26-2011, 08:07 PM   #3086
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anyone try a gear diff yet?
Are they availible?
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Old 12-26-2011, 08:52 PM   #3087
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my diff i tightened it all the way and the dogbone is still hitting, do i need to take the diff out any ideas what could be wrong?
I would take it back out and check it over- something has to be wrong if its touching the dogbone. The dogbone is close, but should not touch the diff nut at any time.
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Old 12-26-2011, 09:26 PM   #3088
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my diff i tightened it all the way and the dogbone is still hitting, do i need to take the diff out any ideas what could be wrong?
...........
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Old 12-26-2011, 09:41 PM   #3089
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Here it is just missing the esc and wing still need to take the diff out and check it. rob majors from 521 designs did the body.
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Old 12-27-2011, 12:34 AM   #3090
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Im runnning my diff screw 4mm in, I do have the RW spur, that may be a little thinner maybe?

I am on MM4 and carpet so need a bit more punch.
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