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Old 12-20-2011, 02:03 AM   #2956
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Originally Posted by onekiwi View Post
try the bugel boy body they look a bit like the original and not that horrible finisher
This one? Yeah it looks alright
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Old 12-20-2011, 07:14 AM   #2957
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I love the Bugle Boy body for the 210 and it's definitely on my list (it looks like a Tamiya Avante... it doesn't get cooler than that). Only negative is the shipping costs and time to get stuff from Australia to the US.
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Old 12-20-2011, 08:07 AM   #2958
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Have you asked what shiping times are or if its recorded/trackable/insured postage.

One guy had 3 days from Australia to Belgium (Europe), now thats not bad and the shipping is fine in my eyes
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Old 12-20-2011, 08:45 AM   #2959
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My kit came early from A Main, so I've been working on it since about 2pm today.

Initial Building:


1) Manual (paper & online) are very vague. Every kit I've built in the past had a manual that explained certain steps or gave you instructions on how to setup the diff, or properly setup the shocks. This isn't my first kit, but for the first timer the instruction manual really needs some more, well, instructions.

Agree

2) Some bags are labeled, some aren't. Finding the right part for a few steps was slightly annoying.

Yup

3) The ball studs are very weak. I've broken two already. These two were the ones on the inner mounts for the front shock tower. Makes in impossible to get a real driver onto the stud because of the way the front tower is designed. Half of the ball on each one snapped off.

First I've heard of that.... I can get a driver on to mine no problem

4) Turn buckles actually went together nicely. Enlarge the hole for each end and use some grease or oil. Works perfect.

Same here

5) Stock bearings for the front wheels seem really tight, and the wheels (no tires) only spin a few revolutions. One of the things to see progress after I get some track time on the car. Maybe they will loosen up.

Without tires, the wont spin very long....they'll be fine, The bearings are also rubber shielded so they typically have a bit more drag than metal shielded

6) All the hex nuts on the car don't fit any of my tools, except pliers. Also, the provided silver three-point hex tool doesn't work for anything on the car. No idea why it's in the kit.

I have to say it.....you know this car is all METRIC hardware right? Just checking, because all my wrenches fit.

7) I received Dark Blue front springs, Light blue rear springs.

Problem? This is what the car comes with....

8) Several parts on the front and rear end didn't line up at all. The servo mount blocks that slide into the side pods are very tight. I had to take apart the front steering linkage and install the servo first along with the bottom linkage plate to get things to finally go into place. In the rear, when installing the transmission, several holes on the bottom didn't line up until i loosened the side pods & toe plates.

Everything lines up fine, BUT yes you need to leave everything a little loose to get it all together before tightening everything down. This is where the instructions could help

9) There are a lot of plastic parts on this car that need to be stiffer, or replaced with carbon/CNC aluminum.

Like what? There are only two things I can think of...one is the ackerman link (which I've never had an issue with) and the rear shock tower (which I run a Diggity Carbon tower) The arms on this car are some of the stiffest on the market and I have had no problems with anything else breaking or stripping out

10) Not a single e-clip.



Still to come:

1) I don't know if it's me, but the gear for the top shaft has a lot of play in the transmission. There is a noticeable "tick" when moving the shaft forward & reverse before the rest of the transmission engages. Also, I don't like having the one bearing inside the transmission for the top shaft. I know there's one on the motor plate, but putting the transmission together really bothered me. Setup is RM3.

Mine is fine.....I've built LOTS of transmissions and this is one of the best out there.

2) Transmission also has way too many screws. I understand why they are all there, but if there is a real issue with this top shaft thing, it's going to be a pain in the ass to get apart.

Its really not that bad....I've had the trans in and out in less than 15 minutes and that included going through my diff

3) Waiting on Marcus @ RCShox to ship my pistons, so shocks aren't built yet. TSR bladders and foam coming too.

4) Akula & Tresrey is sending me all carbon stuff, but won't go on until I know how to handle the buggy and not break anything.

5) On accident I put one of the smaller hinge pins on the front inner arms and had to destroy the part the hinge pin sits in the rear to get it out, so I already need a new arm.

Bummer

6) I hope someone makes an aluminum front bulkhead. The stock one is too easily stripped.

First one I've heard of stripping........ Nothing on this car (on any car for that matter) needs to be "cranked down" tight. Snugged down is all the screws need to be. A drop of CA glue on the screw before inserting into the plastic helps a ton (have done this on all my cars including Tamiya and Kyosho)

7) Definitely getting the front aluminum ball stud mounts & aluminum rear toe block.

Nice bling but definitely not necessary

That's my rant. Have two more boxes of parts coming from A Main this week also, including electronics. My J Concepts body is here as well, and that will be getting custom paint soon.

^^^^ Dont take it personal, just pointing out a few of my observations.....
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Old 12-20-2011, 08:52 AM   #2960
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Hello hopsing,

where do you get that Diggity Carbon tower from ? do you have a link or a picture ?
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Old 12-20-2011, 09:11 AM   #2961
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Car was really good at WC but I have a slight on power push. I started with 2,2 insert in the front hub then switched to the 3,1 front hub insert which I think would of got rid of the on power push but when I tried that set up the wheel rubs on the screw that keeps the hinge pin in place at full through... Did I do something wrong? HELP
Are you talking about the trailing insert for the axle? The stock set up is set with the full 4mm of trailing and the hub pushed all the way forward in the arm (4mm behind the hub). At that point the wheel is VERY close to rubbing the screw (close enough that if you push on the wheel you can get to rub). The only way it could rub more from this point would be if you move the hub back in the arm and left the trailing at 4mm.

What tires are you running at West Coast? Gold barcode fronts are the ticket if you arent running them yet. Also, when I ran my car there, running a shorty pack in the forward position was HUGE in getting the car to steer through the corner better on power..... and I was still running the STOCK springs the car comes with.
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Old 12-20-2011, 09:13 AM   #2962
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Hello hopsing,

where do you get that Diggity Carbon tower from ? do you have a link or a picture ?

post #2954, one page back (page 197) on this thread..... or go to http://www.diggitydesigns.com/
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Old 12-20-2011, 10:24 AM   #2963
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Hopsing, about the transmission. Is there supposed to be a little play in the top shaft gear or do I need to pull it apart and check everything?
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Old 12-20-2011, 10:40 AM   #2964
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For those of you that would like to see this setup in action on a hard clay surface, here is a good video of me running in our local club race last Saturday, running in the 17.5 no-boost class.... this is the same day I drew up my setup sheet. I'm out front in the white finnisher shell durango, with the black wheels.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 12-20-2011, 10:43 AM   #2965
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Hopsing, about the transmission. Is there supposed to be a little play in the top shaft gear or do I need to pull it apart and check everything?
Rotational play? or side to side play? You will have a little rotational play as the gears aren't meshed tightly together.... just like the spur to pinion mesh, there should be a little gap which will allow the gear to move very slightly before engaging. The top shaft on my car has no side to side play.....
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Old 12-20-2011, 11:08 AM   #2966
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Originally Posted by hopsing View Post
Are you talking about the trailing insert for the axle? The stock set up is set with the full 4mm of trailing and the hub pushed all the way forward in the arm (4mm behind the hub). At that point the wheel is VERY close to rubbing the screw (close enough that if you push on the wheel you can get to rub). The only way it could rub more from this point would be if you move the hub back in the arm and left the trailing at 4mm.

What tires are you running at West Coast? Gold barcode fronts are the ticket if you arent running them yet. Also, when I ran my car there, running a shorty pack in the forward position was HUGE in getting the car to steer through the corner better on power..... and I was still running the STOCK springs the car comes with.
Thanks for the info... I asked those guy what was the best tire to run there and they told me PL Suburbs prolly sold me what they had...LOL. when i got home i took it apart and found that i had the caster inserts in the wrong directions..lol everything is good now...Cant wait to go back bc the car was good not set up properly..
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Old 12-20-2011, 11:38 AM   #2967
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can you run mid motor with the finnisher? It doesnt look like you can to me.
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Old 12-20-2011, 12:21 PM   #2968
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
For those of you that would like to see this setup in action on a hard clay surface, here is a good video of me running in our local club race last Saturday, running in the 17.5 no-boost class.... this is the same day I drew up my setup sheet. I'm out front in the white finnisher shell durango, with the black wheels.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
What was your motor, gearing / end bell timing for that? Dipping into blinky 17.5 this weekend.

thanks
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Old 12-20-2011, 12:24 PM   #2969
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can you run mid motor with the finnisher? It doesnt look like you can to me.
Not sure... i would GUESS not, but couldn't say for sure.

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What was your motor, gearing / end bell timing for that? Dipping into blinky 17.5 this weekend.
Trinity D3 17.5
32/75
Endbell timing maxed
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Old 12-20-2011, 04:07 PM   #2970
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I assumed with your wisdom and knowledge that you run mod. Dont you think with stock that it would be better running the 3 gear tranny.

I've had my car for what seems like ages, and still havn't ran it
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