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Old 12-18-2011, 03:00 AM   #2911
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I make them to sell. It's a new product.
http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=83523
Order placed, payment sent..
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Old 12-18-2011, 05:45 AM   #2912
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Any reason you guys are reaming out spurs to fit instead of the RW ones that are deigned for the 210? Just wondering if theres something I should know about the RW's.
The 210 spur is 87T and to use motors like 13.5 and 10.5 you really need to have a smaller spur to allow the gearing to be better. I found that I had to run a smaller spur with my 7.5 so am running a 83T with 24T pinion. The RW spur gears also seem to be much more round in their manufacturing than the stock Durango gears and are hence quieter and more efficient.
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Old 12-18-2011, 06:44 AM   #2913
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Did you put the hex on first then the pin on the outside? Other way around and there will be mega slop! Go Cards!
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
Id love to help you out... but for the life of me, I can't figure out what you are talking about.

ARE YOU SERIOUS.... I put the Hexes on Backwards........LOL

That Makes sense....

For the life of me i couldnt figure it out... even looked at ONLINE manual


Thanks tom and Capt. Even if ya didnt understand me...LOL



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Old 12-18-2011, 08:30 AM   #2914
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ARE YOU SERIOUS.... I put the Hexes on Backwards........LOL

That Makes sense....

For the life of me i couldnt figure it out... even looked at ONLINE manual


Thanks tom and Capt. Even if ya didnt understand me...LOL



Stav
Eh, I had to look at it a couple times myself while building, the build sorta makes you confused after a bit, didnt flow together like other builds..good to see you sorted it out.. Once you get the car on the track, and get a good set-up its aces..
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Old 12-18-2011, 06:30 PM   #2915
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Brandon, will be great if you can post your set up!
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Old 12-18-2011, 07:05 PM   #2916
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I need a gear box! I broke mine where the camber link mounts. Anybody have a spare, or know where I can find one in stock? Thanks!
Is this a common occurrence? I saw the other guy JB welded his gearbox.
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Old 12-18-2011, 07:44 PM   #2917
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Originally Posted by stavman View Post
ARE YOU SERIOUS.... I put the Hexes on Backwards........LOL

That Makes sense....

For the life of me i couldnt figure it out... even looked at ONLINE manual


Thanks tom and Capt. Even if ya didnt understand me...LOL



Stav
..I can only laugh like that because I did the same thing at first!!!...must be our 1/8 scale instincts Stav?!?!?!
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Old 12-18-2011, 08:33 PM   #2918
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UPDATE
3/3 aluminum toe block supply is very low. I am shipping a lot out tomorrow and checking on shipping options for a few international orders. I will reassess the stock on hand and give an update.
Thanks to everybody that ordered!
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Old 12-18-2011, 09:06 PM   #2919
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Originally Posted by forty6 View Post
Is this a common occurrence? I saw the other guy JB welded his.
gearbox is the same brittle material as the shock towers, maybe boiling them will soften them up enough. i havent seen any gear cases anywhere.......
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Old 12-18-2011, 09:16 PM   #2920
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Is this a common occurrence? I saw the other guy JB welded his gearbox.
I haven't had problems with mine, but I did finally have a ball cup pop off, but in a head on collision, that's all that happened, surprised my hand made front camber mount didnt let go..lol The car has been just as durable or better than any car I have owned, and my set-up is improving every time out.
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Old 12-18-2011, 10:26 PM   #2921
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Can't wait to get my aluminum rear toe block
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Old 12-18-2011, 11:03 PM   #2922
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OK, for those of you that have been waiting, here is my final setup sheet. Final that is until I find a way to improve upon it. The ultimate goal of this setup was to balance the car for a typical rear-motor setup, and to greatly increase the amount of on-power and off-power steering. There is limited space on the setup sheet to type notes, so I will preface it with some information here. The link to the setup sheet is at the bottom.

1. If you run on a different type of surface, with a different level of overall grip/traction, you are going to want less roll stiffness than I am running here. When traction levels are up on my track, it's not uncommon to traction roll. One setup cannot work for all track conditions, so this setup may not work for your track. Just keep that in mind. If you want to run this general setup, but run with different levels of traction, don't hesitate to PM me. Id be happy to help you with some subtle changes to tailor the setup to your track.

2. My track is pretty smooth, so I typically don't have to keep my suspension soft, to handle lots of small bumps or ruts. The shock setup here is designed to handle medium sized jumps.

3. Pay attention to my pistons, oil weight, and spring choice. I spent a LOT of time balancing the front and rear chassis rising frequency ... first by spring only, and then damped. This keeps the car very predictable coming in and out of turns as the front and rear of the car work together, instead of fighting each other. This allows you to push the car harder than you could otherwise, and the car will resist becoming unsettled.

4. Steering on and off throttle can be changed quite a bit by droop. Pay attention to my notes on how I measure droop. I don't measure wishbone length as that that method is an inaccurate way to measure droop. I measure actual chassis droop/rise instead.

5. Chassis weight balance is a bit different with this car I found. The rear of the car is quite a bit heavier than any other buggy I have driven, and therefor found the shorty lipo moved forward beyond the normal battery stop was the best way to achieve front to rear balance. I used foam pads to precisely place my battery. Instead of adding weight to the front of the buggy, I subtracted weight from the rear by running the short lipo farther forward than allowed normally. This keeps the buggy lighter and more responsive. I found the buggy to a) be too heavy, and b) have too little steering with a full sized lipo. Here is a picture of my battery placement. For placement, I removed the normal battery stop, and ran a 15mm foam pad up against the back of my full sized servo, which moved the lipo 14mm farther forward.

Moving from a full sized lipo to a shorty lipo put the car into a whole other league, and at least for now, I consider it an absolute must have for this buggy.

6. Even though I am running the Akura front carbon tower, the roll center placement matches what I have dictated on the setup sheet for the factory front shock tower.

7. I am running the original ball cups found on the 4wheeler and SC trucks. I found the HD ball cups to be too hard, resulting in a lot of unnecessary popped ball cups.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Ball-Joint-Set

Battery Placement


Finisher Shell


---> Setup Sheet <----

Brandon_Collins_Dex210_Setupsheet.pdf
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Last edited by Cpt.America; 12-18-2011 at 11:20 PM.
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Old 12-18-2011, 11:21 PM   #2923
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Thanks for the post Brandon. I was day dreaming today (don't even have my kit yet) and was thinking of doing the exact same thing with the battery. Also, what's the other thing next to your receiver? Power pack or capacitor?
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Old 12-18-2011, 11:30 PM   #2924
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Thanks for the post Brandon. I was day dreaming today (don't even have my kit yet) and was thinking of doing the exact same thing with the battery. Also, what's the other thing next to your receiver? Power pack or capacitor?
Transponder.,.. and you're welcome!
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Old 12-19-2011, 03:19 AM   #2925
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
OK, for those of you that have been waiting, here is my final setup sheet. Final that is until I find a way to improve upon it. The ultimate goal of this setup was to balance the car for a typical rear-motor setup, and to greatly increase the amount of on-power and off-power steering. There is limited space on the setup sheet to type notes, so I will preface it with some information here. The link to the setup sheet is at the bottom.

1. If you run on a different type of surface, with a different level of overall grip/traction, you are going to want less roll stiffness than I am running here. When traction levels are up on my track, it's not uncommon to traction roll. One setup cannot work for all track conditions, so this setup may not work for your track. Just keep that in mind. If you want to run this general setup, but run with different levels of traction, don't hesitate to PM me. Id be happy to help you with some subtle changes to tailor the setup to your track.

2. My track is pretty smooth, so I typically don't have to keep my suspension soft, to handle lots of small bumps or ruts. The shock setup here is designed to handle medium sized jumps.

3. Pay attention to my pistons, oil weight, and spring choice. I spent a LOT of time balancing the front and rear chassis rising frequency ... first by spring only, and then damped. This keeps the car very predictable coming in and out of turns as the front and rear of the car work together, instead of fighting each other. This allows you to push the car harder than you could otherwise, and the car will resist becoming unsettled.

4. Steering on and off throttle can be changed quite a bit by droop. Pay attention to my notes on how I measure droop. I don't measure wishbone length as that that method is an inaccurate way to measure droop. I measure actual chassis droop/rise instead.

5. Chassis weight balance is a bit different with this car I found. The rear of the car is quite a bit heavier than any other buggy I have driven, and therefor found the shorty lipo moved forward beyond the normal battery stop was the best way to achieve front to rear balance. I used foam pads to precisely place my battery. Instead of adding weight to the front of the buggy, I subtracted weight from the rear by running the short lipo farther forward than allowed normally. This keeps the buggy lighter and more responsive. I found the buggy to a) be too heavy, and b) have too little steering with a full sized lipo. Here is a picture of my battery placement. For placement, I removed the normal battery stop, and ran a 15mm foam pad up against the back of my full sized servo, which moved the lipo 14mm farther forward.

Moving from a full sized lipo to a shorty lipo put the car into a whole other league, and at least for now, I consider it an absolute must have for this buggy.

6. Even though I am running the Akura front carbon tower, the roll center placement matches what I have dictated on the setup sheet for the factory front shock tower.

7. I am running the original ball cups found on the 4wheeler and SC trucks. I found the HD ball cups to be too hard, resulting in a lot of unnecessary popped ball cups.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Ball-Joint-Set

Battery Placement


Finisher Shell


---> Setup Sheet <----

Brandon_Collins_Dex210_Setupsheet.pdf


Thanks for the advice, but I can't open the file. It mentions that it is damaged, when I try to open it. Not sure if anyone is having this problem. Thanks.
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