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Old 12-14-2011, 01:01 PM   #2776
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Ya, but I also run at West Coast which is hight bite track.
i see... with a 7.5.... on a high bite track... i would think your outdrives would wear faster than mine, as I run on a medium/high bite clay track with a 90% 9.5....
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Old 12-14-2011, 01:05 PM   #2777
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The online manual is confused as well. All three bearing that came in the kit are 8x5x2.5. No 3mm to be found.
Kyosho does use a 5x8x2.5 in their diff and in their steering bell crank....I remember measuring one of my bearings and I had one that was 3mm which I think was the one I blew out so maybe that was the problem.
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Old 12-14-2011, 01:17 PM   #2778
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if ever there was a situation where RM4 is needed ,this is it!! this track was built last week and has not been raced on and only driven by a handful of cars so it is very loose and bumpy, i am running basically the same setup i was at the hardpacked track except i did the caster mod and went to 0 trailing, still running 20w f/r with 1.2/1.3 2 stg pistons, i can definately go to 17.5 in the rear as its not even close to packing up! i was pleasently surprised at how much traction is available, its actually easier to drive hard. im sure once the track hardens up and traction is increased i can clear the double-doubles, i did it with my SC right before the video! enjoy
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=psReX8lRgKs

tires were losi 4 ribs and goosebumps.
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Old 12-14-2011, 01:36 PM   #2779
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Here are a couple of pics of my outdrives after about 35 runs with a 7.5 mod motor.

One thing I was thinking of was when I first built my CVD's one of them had bind in it. I had to clean up the cvd end of the dogbone slightly so that it would pivot freely throughout the range of movement in the axle. Its possible that if you have a "tight" cvd that during its rotation when it hits that tight spot it's causing an imbalance (which it will) that can prematurely damage/wear the outdrive.
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Durango DEX210 Thread-wp_001389.jpg   Durango DEX210 Thread-wp_001390.jpg  
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Old 12-14-2011, 01:56 PM   #2780
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Wow steve, you have almost no wear at all... I can only speculate that our outdrives are made out of different material... I have fewer runs than you (well maybe about the same), but mine are literally worn 5 or 6 times as much.
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Old 12-14-2011, 02:10 PM   #2781
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Here are a couple of pics of my outdrives after about 35 runs with a 7.5 mod motor.

One thing I was thinking of was when I first built my CVD's one of them had bind in it. I had to clean up the cvd end of the dogbone slightly so that it would pivot freely throughout the range of movement in the axle. Its possible that if you have a "tight" cvd that during its rotation when it hits that tight spot it's causing an imbalance (which it will) that can prematurely damage/wear the outdrive.
Looks good. My cvd's are free, no binding. The cvd can touch the axle and rotate freely on both sides although I have 4mm of limiters plus the droop screws to act as down stops so they never get to that angle. I just have a bad set of outdrives.

The 2.5mm might be a running change. If you run a 3mm it looks like the top shaft might be putting pressure on the race as opposed to just supporting it. I could get a 3mm in there but then the larger bearing would be pushed out from the diff case.

Drilled out some 55's to try on Saturday.
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Old 12-14-2011, 02:25 PM   #2782
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Wow steve, you have almost no wear at all... I can only speculate that our outdrives are made out of different material... I have fewer runs than you (well maybe about the same), but mine are literally worn 5 or 6 times as much.
I'm running a 7.5 as well on a high grip carpet track and my car has app. 30 packs of runtime. There are almost no signs of wear on my cvd's and outdrives...
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Old 12-14-2011, 02:41 PM   #2783
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Maybe a conical washer is needed to ride against the bearing instead of a flat washer?
Looking at the topshaft once I had the diff apart the washer touches it and not the bearing. Also the inner slipper plate can only go so far down on the topshaft. If you push the slipper away from the larger outer bearing(using a wider 8x5x3 bearing) all of the pressure would be transferred to the small bearing causing premature wear.

Looks like there is room for the 3mm in the pic. You can see the space to the left of the gear.


I do like the exposed slipper spring, so easy to make adjustments quickly and no adjustment cover to worry about.
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Old 12-14-2011, 04:05 PM   #2784
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Originally Posted by hopsing View Post
Here are a couple of pics of my outdrives after about 35 runs with a 7.5 mod motor.

One thing I was thinking of was when I first built my CVD's one of them had bind in it. I had to clean up the cvd end of the dogbone slightly so that it would pivot freely throughout the range of movement in the axle. Its possible that if you have a "tight" cvd that during its rotation when it hits that tight spot it's causing an imbalance (which it will) that can prematurely damage/wear the outdrive.

Had the same issue with one cvd, my buddy also
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Old 12-14-2011, 08:38 PM   #2785
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Try mine, go to tresrey-usa.com and set-up sheets. If it's not changed yet, only different thing I have done is light red springs in the rear and the #3 hole on the rear hub.
Also when I was driving it, it bottoms out a lot.. How do you get more pack out of the fat shocks? What should I do? I got it used so I dont know whats in the shocks but what would you all do?

Also lunsford shock standoffs are coming!!
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Old 12-14-2011, 09:33 PM   #2786
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Also when I was driving it, it bottoms out a lot.. How do you get more pack out of the fat shocks? What should I do? I got it used so I dont know whats in the shocks but what would you all do?
The shock pack is a issue on all the durango fat shocks. What most have done is close up a few holes in the pistions. Either use CA or melt them closed with a warm soldering iron.
Its hard to say exactly what you need but usually closing 2 holes makes a huge difference.
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Old 12-14-2011, 09:39 PM   #2787
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Also when I was driving it, it bottoms out a lot.. How do you get more pack out of the fat shocks? What should I do? I got it used so I dont know whats in the shocks but what would you all do?

Also lunsford shock standoffs are coming!!
Are you running mid motor or rear motor? What springs, oil, and pistons are you running? Too many variables to give you an answer.
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Old 12-14-2011, 09:40 PM   #2788
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Also when I was driving it, it bottoms out a lot.. How do you get more pack out of the fat shocks? What should I do? I got it used so I dont know whats in the shocks but what would you all do?

Also lunsford shock standoffs are coming!!
if you watch my vids , you will notice that my cars do not slap and there is plenty of pack. RCshox pistons eliminate that problem,both of those vids are 20w front and rear with 1.2/1.3mm 6 hole pistons. even on that drop off it barely kisses the chassis but not enough to slap. i am just saying, there is a cure.... why go through gluing holes shut and all of that? no point in running big bore shocks if you have to restrict the flow, may as well use std bore durango shocks with 4 holes, its the same difference!
on the latest vid there is a double that i jump and land flat bottom with no slap at all, while still being able to absorb the small stuff.

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Old 12-14-2011, 09:45 PM   #2789
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What is the tallest pack that can fit this car?
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Old 12-14-2011, 10:36 PM   #2790
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why go through gluing holes shut and all of that? .
because it is way cheaper. and the kit comes with blank pistons, so if you dont want to close the 6 hole pistons, there is always the option of drilling your own custom pistons
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