Posvar

iTrader: (470)

Now that we know what the new jconcepts body looks like, does anyone have any feedback on how it makes the car handle?

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

Thank you! i may make them available if there is any interest. I also got a new design for the rear tower that looks cool too, kinda goes with the Durango style. has anyone broken a front tower yet?

flame56mx

iTrader: (520)

Yeah, I was replacing mine after last weekends race, and noticed a hairline crack in it. I ordered an Akula frt tower, but didnt like the ballstud link situation, so I took it back off. If you go back a page, I retooled the broken tower and the Akula one together. I put a few packs on it tonight, and it held up great, but next time I will leave a little more material.

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

i have seen the question asked but dont think there was a reply, what is a good starting fluid for the gear dif?

triplesix

most people i know, run 2000 in their gear diff (b4.1)

Dog Runner

iTrader: (23)

Start with 2000. Give 3000 and 1000 a try after understanding how 2000 makes your car handle.

Konich

iTrader: (9)

Upgraded bearing are shipping from Japan this week!

Hi-LowBlow

iTrader: (1)

How is the diff working for you all? I still can't get it right. Yes i saw the video, yes i did place the snap ring right but still very heavy.

Also, have you guys thought about reducing the weight of the car? My car is really really heavy....

Any help/tips are greatly appreciated.
Thanks,

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

Once you figure out the snapring and the proper order of thrust washers... it's the single best diff I have seen in any RC platform. What do you mean the diff is still very heavy? But with this diff... if you get it wrong, it can be HORRIBLY wrong. Unlike the diff that you find in the B4 for example, which is far easier to assemble correctly.

Rideordieguy1

iTrader: (45)

+1 on the diff. Once it's built and cleaned properly it's as smooth as butter as long as it's done properly!

Jonny5

iTrader: (19)

Tresrey CF chassis..........

hopsing

iTrader: (13)

+2 as well....

I was also wondering about the "heavy" diff feel? You mean tight? If its smooth its good....it will break in and loosen up a little after a while. I was tempted to loosen it up after a few runs but I left it alone its good now..might loosen it just a tick but its butter and thats with the stock balls and thrusts

hopsing

iTrader: (13)

How is heavy is really heavy? My car with a shorty pack is around 1630 with stock steel turnbuckles and no titanium....oh and I also have some shoo goo on the inside of my body to protect it from getting scratched by anything on the inside so its probably almost double the weight .. With some titanium screws and turnbuckles it will be under 1600 which isnt bad. I'm also running a full size Futaba receiver, a SpeedPassion GT2.0 Pro esc, and a fullsize servo.

I'm not worried about getting the car too much lighter, the car is awesome the way it is... I wouldnt worry too much about it unless you are running in unboosted 17.5 stock class.

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

Good day of testing today! we have our toys for Tots event this weekend and will have a 2w mod class so i spent about 4 hours today setting the car up. its a big track, my best time in SC was 32.9 last weekend(33.3 today) and 31.04 at the finals (track was in much better shape and more grip) today i managed to crack a few 34's with the 210!! next quickest time in SC was 34 flat and 1/8 gas was also in the 34's so this bad boy is quick!! when i went through all of my dif madness last week i ended up putting 1/8 ceramic balls in the dif (drill the holes out and removed the copper shims) it worked ok but wasnt smooth and i couldnt get it to stop slipping, so i know i can get quicker as it was a little bit of a handful due to the dif acting weird. So when i got home today i went ahead and rebuilt the new dif gear along with new proper sized balls and it went back to feeling right but i want to try out the gear dif for the weekend so i installed it (SC10 2wd, you need 2mm shims on boths sides to make it fit and xacto knife the edge off of the gear) and went with 2k oil, its going to be in the 30's on race day so it should be ok!

suspension wise, i have not changed too much -4 on trail,3*kick up, -1 front camber with .5* toe in, -1.5* rear camber and 3.5 rear toe

Shocks, i have been playing with RCshox 2 stage pistons and ended up with 4 hole 1.2 compression,1.3 rebound and 20wt in the front. and 6 hole 1.3/1.4 22.5 wt in the rear. 4 hole in the back just had entirely too much pack even with 15wt oil!!

The Garodisc worked flawless all day , even with a loose setting i was able to make all of the big jumps.

i also played with splitting the saddle packs, i got my best time with one in the front and one in the back but the car felt better with them both in the rear. near the end it started getting cold and my hands were freezing! i think i could have squeezed out a few more tenths. Saturday the track will not be as dusty and much more grip so the car should be a demon

Last but not least i had a fair amount of hairy tumbles today as i was pushing it hard! nothing broke, nothing popped off ,my tower held up and it was COOOOLD which we all know is the worst weather conditions for plastic!

i will say it again......GREAT CAR!!

Hi-LowBlow

iTrader: (1)

sorry, "heavy" means that the feel of the diff when I spin either side of tire. It feels really weird when it's tighten as much as it needs to be.

And again, I really don't think I did anything wrong.