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Old 12-04-2011, 07:43 AM   #2461
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Originally Posted by flame56mx View Post
Yeah, it's the middle set of holes and inside ones where the problem rears its ugly head, the angle of the link going back to the hub causes the link to rub the tower. I run in the middle holes, I dont know why they even drilled the inside holes in the thing. And those front cups are gonna take a beating..I may just run the stock tower, until a better design comes out..
Attachment 842927Attachment 842928Attachment 842929
Can you shim out the hub link a little? Should help with angle, as long as it doesn't rub the rim. Just my .02.....
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Old 12-04-2011, 07:59 AM   #2462
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which brand shorty pack fits ? any one useing a std length pack ?
Any shorty pack will Fit ... I am using full pack in forward position with RM4
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Old 12-04-2011, 08:01 AM   #2463
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What's the benefit of a shorty pack if a regular pack fits? Tuning options I assume?
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Old 12-04-2011, 08:11 AM   #2464
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Originally Posted by Bman's 3XNT View Post
Can you shim out the hub link a little? Should help with angle, as long as it doesn't rub the rim. Just my .02.....
Yeah, but hub link already is using a 10mm ballstud, even if there is a longer one, I think I would be creating a weak point. I am not crazy about the link being flush with the bumper, seems like the wrong part leading the way around the track IMO.

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What's the benefit of a shorty pack if a regular pack fits? Tuning options I assume?
Ran standard pack vs. shorty pack, and the shorty pack lets the car transfer weight quicker, and you can definitely feel it..Also you can move it around and for tuning ..
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Old 12-04-2011, 08:16 AM   #2465
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What's the benefit of a shorty pack if a regular pack fits? Tuning options I assume?
yes moving weight forward or reward is the idea and some weight lose also, witch may help or hurt in some cases. some also use saddle packs witch have more weight than the shorty and you can spread them out more with a longer lead joining the packs together.... so you could put one in the back one in the front for example...
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Old 12-04-2011, 08:43 AM   #2466
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after all of my dif issues , i pretty much got a good day of tuning in yesterday. Overall i love the car, its very precise and nimble. i originally attempted to run MM4 and thought the car felt pretty good but it just had a bad balance to it between front steering and rear traction, seemed to just have too much steering no matter what i did. so i changed to RM4 and holy S*#T!! MAD traction and perfect steering, i was even running ribs on hardpack clay with rebars and it was almost perfect! my rear shock tower held up the entire day (with plenty of tumbles , its an 1/8 scale track) didnt lose a ballcup and broke nothing! handling wise i like the traction of the RM4 although it does this weird thing under deceleration which makes sense, its kinda feels like a progressive drag brake. Kinda gives you a dead spot between decel and accel but you get used to it.

There is also a HUGE difference between RM and MM for shock setting. i was running 2 stage with 17.5f 15r oils and it handled great. but when i switched to RM i had to go with 22.5f 20 rear , this was using 4 hole 1.3/1.4. i dont really care for the 4 hole and will make some new 6 hole 1.1/1.2 today at least for the rear, didnt like how it handled the washboard section .My first actual race will be this coming saturday at our huge toys for tots event which should have around 120 entries and probably two heats of 2wd buggy!
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Old 12-04-2011, 09:24 AM   #2467
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Originally Posted by flame56mx View Post
Yeah, it's the middle set of holes and inside ones where the problem rears its ugly head, the angle of the link going back to the hub causes the link to rub the tower. I run in the middle holes, I dont know why they even drilled the inside holes in the thing. And those front cups are gonna take a beating..I may just run the stock tower, until a better design comes out..
Attachment 842927Attachment 842928Attachment 842929
I have been using the Akula front shock tower for about 2 weeks or so without any problems. What I did was trim some of the plastic off ball cup by the shock tower. It works great no pop offs, no binding, no issues. I can rotate the link smoothly. Maybe something to try.
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Old 12-04-2011, 09:27 AM   #2468
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I broke a front axle, anyone have a spare they want to give up? None in the US yet... I could replace it when they come in..
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Old 12-04-2011, 09:36 AM   #2469
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Got a pic slash?
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Old 12-04-2011, 09:47 AM   #2470
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I have been using the Akula front shock tower for about 2 weeks or so without any problems. What I did was trim some of the plastic off ball cup by the shock tower. It works great no pop offs, no binding, no issues. I can rotate the link smoothly. Maybe something to try.
I dont have any binding, but having the link be the first thing to touch a pipe, wall, or someone's car seems like a bad idea, and eventually it'll cost you. We have a triple on our little track, and if you lawn dart it, that link would most like take the brunt of the hit. I put the stocker back on, after boiling it..
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Old 12-04-2011, 11:01 AM   #2471
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Originally Posted by flame56mx View Post
I dont have any binding, but having the link be the first thing to touch a pipe, wall, or someone's car seems like a bad idea, and eventually it'll cost you. We have a triple on our little track, and if you lawn dart it, that link would most like take the brunt of the hit. I put the stocker back on, after boiling it..
I never thought about the link being the first thing touch anything. It has'nt been a issue yet, but I think i will keep the stock towers in my box just incase.
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Old 12-04-2011, 01:35 PM   #2472
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Well I just finished building my DEX210 and it is a great design that went together well.

It REALLY SUCKS that the kit is missing a ball joint and worst of all a shock seal cap. No one has the caps in stock anywhere

So I have this partly built $275 car sitting until I can get parts, I hope HRP helps me out.

I can't wait to run it.
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Old 12-04-2011, 01:38 PM   #2473
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Well I just finished building my DEX210 and it is a great design that went together well.

It REALLY SUCKS that the kit is missing a ball joint and worst of all a shock seal cap. No one has the caps in stock anywhere

So I have this partly built $275 car sitting until I can get parts, I hope HRP helps me out.

I can't wait to run it.
Have you contacted Durango? Im sure they will send you out all the parts you need right away.
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Old 12-04-2011, 01:54 PM   #2474
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Have you contacted Durango? Im sure they will send you out all the parts you need right away.
I will call HRP on Monday. I was hoping to hit the track this weekend, oh well maybe next weekend.

I didn't have a single problem with my DNX408 missing parts.
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Old 12-04-2011, 01:59 PM   #2475
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Quick recap from third race night.

Car very easy to drive and soaks up the jumps like nothing. We have a double table where you flat land on the second jump and no matter how I hit it the car just soaks it up and keeps on trucking. I even let a few fast guys give it a try after the races and they had no problem throwing down some quick laps. I'm going to try and reverse the pistons for next week as I have them built as 4 holes but reversed with the 1.2's in the rear. I had to use 20wt to make the rear feel right.

Rebuilt the diff with original circlip and had no issues. I just squeeze the clip just enough to fit in outdrive and push it home with a nut driver. The only problem I had was with the rear droop screws. Unless they are tight against the arms they will back out. My left rear would back out to where I had no rear down travel. Made the car handle a little off. I tried some ca but I guess I did not use enough as it happened again. I think I'll order the 52mm rear shafts and use the shock end to mess with droop.
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