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Old 12-03-2011, 12:00 PM   #2446
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Hi guys,

I'm a newb to 1/10th. I'm thinking of getting the dex210. I've read a few threads and most of them say that this is the most tunable buggy out there. My fear though, is it to tunable for a newb. Can too many changes cause confusion for a newb?

I dont want to waste money and would rather buy right the first time. As iam a newb, just how much torture can this baby handle?

Cheers
Dont be put off by all the adjustments. When making any setup changes on any car, its important to change as few things as possible, preferably one thing at a time. If you do get lost, go back to kit setup and start again.
With all the tuning parts being in the kit, allows you to spend more on tyres and then spend more time at the track

The car is very durable and the diff stays smooth for a very long time. Had 6 hours of running on the kit diff before flipping the plates around, then run it for another couple of hours before sanding the plates down and fitting new balls.
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Old 12-03-2011, 12:07 PM   #2447
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Thanks guys, I'll check what the guys are using, last I went to the track it was losi, team c, lots of ae and a few ranges. Rango guys are from out of town though so only see them at nats.


By the Way one kiwi congrats on the word cup

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Id say get it as all the tuning parts are included in the stock kit and with a helpfull bunch that are on here Im sure you can get help you may n.eed

Its a great car out of the box and the stock setup is fine.

But I think a to make your choice have a look around at the local tracks/clubd to what others are running, think about getting a similar car to them as there you will have local knowledge and on track days others will have parts etc to help out if needed.
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Old 12-03-2011, 12:22 PM   #2448
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Originally Posted by Peff View Post
Hi guys,

I'm a newb to 1/10th. I'm thinking of getting the dex210. I've read a few threads and most of them say that this is the most tunable buggy out there. My fear though, is it to tunable for a newb. Can too many changes cause confusion for a newb?

I dont want to waste money and would rather buy right the first time. As iam a newb, just how much torture can this baby handle?

Cheers
to many changes can confuse.
but if you make 1 change at a time , this buggy is the perfect buggy to learn every aspect of all the tunings options.

Im learning aswell. take your time and do one change on your setup at a time
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Old 12-03-2011, 12:24 PM   #2449
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on my losi 22 I had my travel of the steering at 120% and with this buggy and same servo im down to 95%.
sounds familiar ? or?
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Old 12-03-2011, 12:34 PM   #2450
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Originally Posted by murky123 View Post
on my losi 22 I had my travel of the steering at 120% and with this buggy and same servo im down to 95%.
sounds familiar ? or?
I have an Aitronics 359 in mine, when it was in my old RB5 I had 95% on my EPA, on the 210 im down to 60-70% range so sounds about right to me
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Old 12-03-2011, 03:28 PM   #2451
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I've heard of the AE SC10 gear diff is a direct drop in w/ some shimming
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what oil would you recommend for the gear diff?
Typically 2000 or 3000 diff oil (Team Associated brand, for example) are good to start with to try for a 2wd buggy.
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Old 12-03-2011, 04:07 PM   #2452
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Typically 2000 or 3000 diff oil (Team Associated brand, for example) are good to start with to try for a 2wd buggy.
what shims do you use to install it with?
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Old 12-03-2011, 06:25 PM   #2453
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Just want to make sure that this is a good list of spares I should have on hand? I would add the bulkhead set but its out of stock atm

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Old 12-03-2011, 07:18 PM   #2454
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Originally Posted by Diff Balls View Post
I need some help.......

I am working on the shocks and the o-ring that goes at the top of the shock and than you put on the cap......When tightening down the cap, it squishes the o-ring out and it will actually come out enough where it is completely exposed (not sealing). If I don't tighten it enough for this to happen, it spins very easily.

No I am not over-tightening, I am doing it by hand and not using any force. The o-rings went on very easily and were hardly tight on the threads. Yes it is pushed all the way down on the threads also.

I have built hundreds of shocks over the years and have never had this problem before. My only idea of why its happening is because the top, inside of the cap is angled in a way that it pushes the o-ring outwards as it compresses.

Thanks
Diff balls if ya look some of the shock caps are not perfectly flat on the seal surface i ran into the same issue just snug it down lightly and it will seal ok !!!
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Old 12-03-2011, 09:31 PM   #2455
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Diff balls if ya look some of the shock caps are not perfectly flat on the seal surface i ran into the same issue just snug it down lightly and it will seal ok !!!
I had a similar issue, but it seemed like it happened more on the shock that had a little oil seeping over the edge. The oring would get oily and more slippery and shoot out the side when tightened. I wiped the excess oil off, or was more careful and it didn't happen as often.

I rec'd my Carbon fiber Akula shock towers today, and when I was removing the stockers, I realized I unknowingly broke my first part, not sure if it happened tonight, or when I was running laps on Wednesday, but there was a hairline crack in the front tower. I am not real impressed with the Akula front tower, as the camber link mount is a little suspect. The ballstud mounts horizontal instead of vertically..Well see..
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Old 12-03-2011, 09:55 PM   #2456
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I've only got one night of track time with the Akula stuff, but it's working awesome so far. Running outside middle hole for camber link on front tower.
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Old 12-03-2011, 11:03 PM   #2457
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Regarding the shock cap pushing out the o-ring, first of all, flip the shock cap and you will see there are some residue from the molding process, take a sharp knife and trim it, your problem will go away.
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Old 12-04-2011, 06:56 AM   #2458
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I've only got one night of track time with the Akula stuff, but it's working awesome so far. Running outside middle hole for camber link on front tower.
Yeah, it's the middle set of holes and inside ones where the problem rears its ugly head, the angle of the link going back to the hub causes the link to rub the tower. I run in the middle holes, I dont know why they even drilled the inside holes in the thing. And those front cups are gonna take a beating..I may just run the stock tower, until a better design comes out..
Durango DEX210 Thread-imag0183.jpgDurango DEX210 Thread-imag0184.jpgDurango DEX210 Thread-imag0187.jpg
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Old 12-04-2011, 07:26 AM   #2459
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Yeah, it's the middle set of holes and inside ones where the problem rears its ugly head, the angle of the link going back to the hub causes the link to rub the tower. I run in the middle holes, I dont know why they even drilled the inside holes in the thing. And those front cups are gonna take a beating..I may just run the stock tower, until a better design comes out..
Attachment 842927Attachment 842928Attachment 842929
WOW terrible design for sure ... take that thing off man !!!
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Old 12-04-2011, 07:26 AM   #2460
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which brand shorty pack fits ? any one useing a std length pack ?
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