80LikesDurango DEX210 Thread
11-26-2011, 10:20 AM
#2281
WEll finally got a chance to run a few packs through the car on a blown out outdoor track in MM4 config. I must say that i am impressed with the out of the box handling and at this point I dont even know what I would change on it and thats a good thing. It has tons of mid corner steering and decent grip all the way around. I went with RCshox 2 stage pistons 4 hole 1.3/1.4 with 17.5wt in the front and 15 in the back and the AE garodisc. Even that thin the car would not chassis slap and has plenty of pack, the chassis barely has any scratches on it at all. I cant wait to get on a track with grip and see how it performs but so far i am liking the MM4. now on the not so good, on the third pack i let a friend take some laps and on about the 5th lap he started having traction issues and kept tagging the walls so i pulled it and went to twist the dif and "POP" something broke or got bound up. At the time it sounded like i snapped a screw inside the dif and it lost drive. When i got home and took it apart sure enough the clip came out of the groove, so used the guide and put it all back together again (lots of screws!) and it did it again with in 1min of me twisting the dif. obviously this is a problem, i know this has been talked about but it sux!
11-26-2011, 02:55 PM
#2283
First race with the 210 last night and I can say I'm happy with the purchase. Car was easy to drive and behaved well despite the lack of setup help. The big thing I noticed was the massive down travel this has out of the box. I think this really gives the impression of massive traction and the ability to flat land off any jump without being upset. If you race on a smooth high bite track it makes for a lazy handling car. I do like the ability to to use the droop screws for quick adjustments but they are not really easy to use as the angles required to access them might require a ball driver or removal of camber links. The diff is a dream. Built completely stock and with the help of this thread I can say its a big plus. After 12 packs last night on a high bite track with a mod motor its still butter.
One the minus side I did pop a few ball cups. I used the older style cups and lost the steering links only. I think the lack of servo saver may be a factor. I'm not complaining to much as I think the ackerman rack would have been broken if I had a more durable ballcup. I also had massive bump steer and was baffled until I noticed I had the ackerman ballstuds on upside down for most of the day.
One my wish list would be a longer chassis and a much beefier rear shock tower and steering rack.
One the minus side I did pop a few ball cups. I used the older style cups and lost the steering links only. I think the lack of servo saver may be a factor. I'm not complaining to much as I think the ackerman rack would have been broken if I had a more durable ballcup. I also had massive bump steer and was baffled until I noticed I had the ackerman ballstuds on upside down for most of the day.
One my wish list would be a longer chassis and a much beefier rear shock tower and steering rack.
11-26-2011, 03:07 PM
#2284
First race with the 210 last night and I can say I'm happy with the purchase. Car was easy to drive and behaved well despite the lack of setup help. The big thing I noticed was the massive down travel this has out of the box. I think this really gives the impression of massive traction and the ability to flat land off any jump without being upset. If you race on a smooth high bite track it makes for a lazy handling car. I do like the ability to to use the droop screws for quick adjustments but they are not really easy to use as the angles required to access them might require a ball driver or removal of camber links. The diff is a dream. Built completely stock and with the help of this thread I can say its a big plus. After 12 packs last night on a high bite track with a mod motor its still butter.
One the minus side I did pop a few ball cups. I used the older style cups and lost the steering links only. I think the lack of servo saver may be a factor. I'm not complaining to much as I think the ackerman rack would have been broken if I had a more durable ballcup. I also had massive bump steer and was baffled until I noticed I had the ackerman ballstuds on upside down for most of the day.
One my wish list would be a longer chassis and a much beefier rear shock tower and steering rack. That thing has some flex.
One the minus side I did pop a few ball cups. I used the older style cups and lost the steering links only. I think the lack of servo saver may be a factor. I'm not complaining to much as I think the ackerman rack would have been broken if I had a more durable ballcup. I also had massive bump steer and was baffled until I noticed I had the ackerman ballstuds on upside down for most of the day.
One my wish list would be a longer chassis and a much beefier rear shock tower and steering rack. That thing has some flex.
On the note about ballcups....I still use the HD ones that come with the 210, and after near 25 battery packs, have yet to pop one off and can adjust mine while on the car still with no issues.
Carbon fiber rear shock towers and ackerman links are available if it suits you from a few different sources, and there is also an aluminum ackerman link available from Racers Edge.
Not sure about needing a longer chassis though, I kind of wondered why the car wasnt longer from the start but after driving it, I cant see why it would need to be. The car has traction, steering and stability what else do you need!
11-26-2011, 03:16 PM
#2285
The big thing is to make sure the snap ring isnt overcompressed....if it is, it will never "snap" back into the groove (especially if it has popped out once already). After my initial problem with the diff, I pulled it all back apart and actually spread the snap ring out slightly. During reassembly I was very carelful to compress the snap ring the absolute minimum to get it into the outdrive. Havent had a problem since even with a "used" snap ring. Also make sure the washers are in correctly or it will just compound the problem. One more thing is to not overtighten the diff initially before break in.
11-26-2011, 04:00 PM
#2286
well i have been fighting this bastard all day!! i swear i cannot for the life of me figure out what is going on, i have built 100's of ball difs from mini-z's and up. i have changed every component and it still does the same thing. from what i can tell for some reason the thrust assembly locks up but only in one direction??? you can twist it to the right about four rev;s and then it locks up, if you spin backwards it releases and acts normal but will lock up at almost the same exact spot. i do have the original clip still until my new ones come in but i really cant see how the clip can make this happen (not saying it cant, i just dont see it) i bent the clip outwards, and it is not popping out of the slot because the entire time the dif is working it just gets tight. i mentioned yesterday that when i was spinning it it went pop and now i realize that it was tightening up and then popping the clip out. so for now it just going to sit on the shelf til the new clips come in and hopefully it will go right after that......... the thrust washers are assembled right everything is right as i have taken apart at least 20 times today. oh one more thing since i decided to shelf it for the week i went ahead and put it back together but flipped the thrust bearing washers upside down so the groove are on the outside and it actually feels better but dont know how tight the dif is yet, it just seems like for some reason the thrust ssembly is locking up, i even polished the inside of the housing to stop it!
That is weird Marcus! So when you spin the right rear tire clockwise, the diff tightens up? Just like if you were actually tightening the diff screw? Wondering if the diff nut is bad? Replace that yet? Factory thrust assembly or Xray or Schuey? I have a Schuey carbide one to try and it looks exactly the same as the stock one (though I havent measured it). Have the washer that goes in between the two middle diff bearings? Just throwin out some ideas 
I build my diff exactly the way that TD recently posted on their site and it works perfect and is really smooth for all stock components. We'll get this figured out!!! 
Edit....realized you run mid motor, so your diff screw shoud be on the left side of the car, and the nut on the right.
Last edited by hopsing; 11-26-2011 at 04:10 PM.
11-26-2011, 04:21 PM
#2289
Thats very well possible too....with diff screw head being tapered its possible that it could sit into the larger washer too deep and cause it to come in contact with the thrust bearing and the other smaller washer and making it all bind up. Doubly double check the washer orientation, use calipers to make sure of the sizes of the washers!
11-26-2011, 05:27 PM
#2291
as far as the thrust assembly locking up I had a similiar problem after a rebuild.it is the c clip/snap ring popping out of groove. u have to expand the ring when inserting it into housing and make sure it is seated properly after doing this i have had no problems.
11-26-2011, 07:20 PM
#2292
Ever have one of those days where you're car runs awsome but you just don't get the breaks, that was my day today. Running 17.5 "blinky" for the first time ever with my new DualSky esc/motor combo and my car was awsome. TQ'd by almost a lap and would of qualified 2nd in mod
Unfortunatly got caught up in lapped traffic in the main and popped a turnbuckle. Went with 1.2 4 hole front with 25wt oil and black springs, rear was 1.3 4 holes with 25 wt oil and light red springs.
*rant on*
Durango really needs to come up with a stronger rear shock tower, went through two of them today to bring my tally up to 3 so far. I've got a carbon fiber one coming from atomic carbon but they REALLY need to redesign this part.
*rant off*
Unfortunatly got caught up in lapped traffic in the main and popped a turnbuckle. Went with 1.2 4 hole front with 25wt oil and black springs, rear was 1.3 4 holes with 25 wt oil and light red springs. *rant on*
Durango really needs to come up with a stronger rear shock tower, went through two of them today to bring my tally up to 3 so far. I've got a carbon fiber one coming from atomic carbon but they REALLY need to redesign this part.
*rant off*
11-26-2011, 07:38 PM
#2293
Thats very well possible too....with diff screw head being tapered its possible that it could sit into the larger washer too deep and cause it to come in contact with the thrust bearing and the other smaller washer and making it all bind up. Doubly double check the washer orientation, use calipers to make sure of the sizes of the washers!
11-26-2011, 07:40 PM
#2294
Ever have one of those days where you're car runs awsome but you just don't get the breaks, that was my day today. Running 17.5 "blinky" for the first time ever with my new DualSky esc/motor combo and my car was awsome. TQ'd by almost a lap and would of qualified 2nd in mod Unfortunatly got caught up in lapped traffic in the main and popped a turnbuckle. Went with 1.2 4 hole front with 25wt oil and black springs, rear was 1.3 4 holes with 25 wt oil and light red springs.
*rant on*
Durango really needs to come up with a stronger rear shock tower, went through two of them today to bring my tally up to 3 so far. I've got a carbon fiber one coming from atomic carbon but they REALLY need to redesign this part.
*rant off*
Unfortunatly got caught up in lapped traffic in the main and popped a turnbuckle. Went with 1.2 4 hole front with 25wt oil and black springs, rear was 1.3 4 holes with 25 wt oil and light red springs. *rant on*
Durango really needs to come up with a stronger rear shock tower, went through two of them today to bring my tally up to 3 so far. I've got a carbon fiber one coming from atomic carbon but they REALLY need to redesign this part.
*rant off*
11-26-2011, 08:07 PM
#2295
tripled checked all of the washers, completely changed the screw and it still did it, changed the nut to a regular nyloc and it still did it. polished the inside to allow the outermost washer to spin, changed balls, removed one of the internal ball bearings to see if maybe it was binding on the clip, nothing. machined off about .005 from the end of one of the outdrives thinking that it was binding on the clip and it still does it. im truly baffled, i went through two packs yesterday trouble free and then all hell has broken loose. I am a machinist and have plenty of measurement tools to verify it all, it seems like something is just machined wrong although i cant find it. sometimes you can spin the dif a dozen times and it is super smooth with no high spots or anything and then BAM it locks up only in one direction like a one way bearing, its the damnest thing........