80LikesDurango DEX210 Thread
11-17-2011, 08:28 AM
#2011
Now that it has been a couple weeks for you guys, where is everyone settling on their front hubs? I have been running 2 on the trailing and 35 for castor. Car has some off power push coming off the sweeper into a 180 and is is a bit twitchy if I get on it to quick. So I was thinking of going to full trailing and cutting the castor down to 25. In the rear I run full toe, hubs forward, and rear shocks out on the bottom. Really helped keep the rear locked in. Good rear traction, but need a bit more steering for the 180's. Thanks...
11-17-2011, 08:35 AM
#2012
I finally got my 210 in yesterday and put it together with the exception of shocks and electronics. It was a pleasure to build but I think TD is subsidised by the screw industry. This buggy is 60% screws! I'm waiting for the metal shock preload adjusters and gold shafts to come in today from Amain to finish that part. The plastic quality and tolerances are amazing and this is coming from a B4.1 which is loose and sloppy as a cheap whore. 
I ordered from Atomic Carbon the lipo strap, steering link and steering brace and should be here next week. I have the kit ball cups and studs on the car to use and if they give me repeated issues then I gold TC5 ballstuds and Kyosho hard ballcups on hand to swap. first race will be Sunday!
I ordered from Atomic Carbon the lipo strap, steering link and steering brace and should be here next week. I have the kit ball cups and studs on the car to use and if they give me repeated issues then I gold TC5 ballstuds and Kyosho hard ballcups on hand to swap. first race will be Sunday!
11-17-2011, 09:06 AM
#2014
Good night with the car last night, feeling a lot more comfortable with it! (I started second)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eOg-7j2INo0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eOg-7j2INo0
I'm getting back into the Hobby. I used to race a 1/8 Losi 8 2.0 but after a fire I lost all my RC gear. So I'm starting over. Since my only experience is 1/8th buggy, do you think the 210 would be a good starting point for a 1/10 scale 2wd buggy? Or would a Losi 22 be a better starting point?
*Edit* My LHS doesn't really have much (or anything) for Durangos so I would be doing all parts replacement via web orders. That doesn't really bother me and I wouldn't mind being the only guy on the track with one of these cars. Also, I'm planning on starting up running the 17.5 class at my track.
*Edit* My LHS doesn't really have much (or anything) for Durangos so I would be doing all parts replacement via web orders. That doesn't really bother me and I wouldn't mind being the only guy on the track with one of these cars. Also, I'm planning on starting up running the 17.5 class at my track.
11-17-2011, 09:22 AM
#2017
We were at full trailing and 30 degrees on Cush's car with 3.5 toe in the rear. Moving the front axle forward 1mm helped a lot with an entry push, but was stil stable middle out.
Taking some toe out of the rear should help mid corner rotation if your car is too locked down mid corner.
Taking some toe out of the rear should help mid corner rotation if your car is too locked down mid corner.
Thanks guys, The track is still fresh and not sure on how the car naturally performs. Being loose I locked in the rear and lost the front. I will try a happy medium until comes in.......
11-17-2011, 10:12 AM
#2022
11-17-2011, 10:14 AM
#2023
I swapped the entire tranny in less than 10 minutes. If you look at the upper braces on top of the chassis simply loose the lower braces screws, remove the motor guard while keeping the wing mounts secured, remove the trans screws, out.
11-17-2011, 10:21 AM
#2024
The battery is still actually just rear of the center of the car. Going to the shorty actually gave me some more middle-exit corner steering I needed without sacrificing hardly any noticeable rear traction.
11-17-2011, 10:48 AM
#2025
Just in time for race 2 of 6 of the ELECTRIC MASTERS SERIES at The Vegas R/C Raceway. http://www.thevegasrcraceway.com
Give em hell, Jonah!