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Old 08-20-2017, 02:23 PM   #19576
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lol i'm debating about getting a second V2 if the price is right to keep me going.... my LHS claims parts is not a problem because they love this buggy and they personally have a box of parts at home if I do break something.
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Old 08-20-2017, 02:26 PM   #19577
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lol i'm debating about getting a second V2 if the price is right to keep me going.... my LHS claims parts is not a problem because they love this buggy and they personally have a box of parts at home if I do break something.
I highly recommend it if you can get the parts man. That's awesome they are gonna hook you up if you end up with some breakage they are fast buggies my friend, definitely worth the effort.
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Old 08-20-2017, 02:34 PM   #19578
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what is the difference between the old curved front arm vs.t he new straight arms (front control arm)
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Old 08-20-2017, 02:38 PM   #19579
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what is the difference between the old curved front arm vs.t he new straight arms (front control arm)
"The biggest changes to the v2 buggy are attached at both ends of the chassis. Durango kept its innovative steering knuckle design that uses replaceable inserts to adjust axle trail, but they’re affixed to the end of radically different front arms that forego drastic gullwing upsweep of the original DEX210. Along with the inevitable geometry change, which should lead to smoother and less aggressive steering, as the arms increase the ground clearance of the arms over rough terrain. Further, the “aero-neutral” arms are shaped to minimize the drastic upward angle caused by the kickup of the front bulkhead in order to reduce aerodynamic lift, though it will be difficult to quantify just how much difference that actually makes."
From (link)
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Old 08-20-2017, 03:56 PM   #19580
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How can i tell if I have the type b chassis ?
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Old 08-20-2017, 03:58 PM   #19581
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Just picked up a V1 (almost ready to run hardware)... in much better condition than my V2 (almost no scratches to the aluminum chassis). But I think running the V2 would be better? Looks like more adjustability of battery position on the chassis
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Old 08-20-2017, 04:08 PM   #19582
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How can i tell if I have the type b chassis ?
If you look at the front and back of the chassis you should see some extra plastic ribbing to reinforce the chassis. Just look at these pictures on amain and you should be able to compare

https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-du...SABEgIAGfD_BwE
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Old 08-20-2017, 04:10 PM   #19583
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Just picked up a V1 (almost ready to run hardware)... in much better condition than my V2 (almost no scratches to the aluminum chassis). But I think running the V2 would be better? Looks like more adjustability of battery position on the chassis
Well since the v2 parts are the harder ones to find you might want to start with running the v1 and get all you can out of it. Then step up to the v2 when you feel you cant make the v1 any faster.
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Old 08-20-2017, 04:36 PM   #19584
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Just picked up a V1 (almost ready to run hardware)... in much better condition than my V2 (almost no scratches to the aluminum chassis). But I think running the V2 would be better? Looks like more adjustability of battery position on the chassis
Actually ignore my other post, what you should do is buy one of Exotek's aluminum chassis kits and then you can use both v1 and v2 parts seamlessly. You can get them for $50 right now which is a steal if you already have the buggy. I am running V2 and V1 parts on my Exotek chassis with no issue.
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Old 08-20-2017, 05:44 PM   #19585
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Really the V2 parts are harder to find? What are the main differences in parts? I know the shock tower, control arms are definitely different. Both having the aluminum chassis everything else looks the same.

The only thing is the V1 is setup as RM and the V2 is setup as MM. Actually the V2 also has the aluminum hangers and the steering cross link.
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Old 08-20-2017, 06:08 PM   #19586
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Really the V2 parts are harder to find? What are the main differences in parts? I know the shock tower, control arms are definitely different. Both having the aluminum chassis everything else looks the same.

The only thing is the V1 is setup as RM and the V2 is setup as MM. Actually the V2 also has the aluminum hangers and the steering cross link.
It's mostly the v2 gearbox and front arms that are pretty hard to come by. As well as the plastic hangers but with the aluminum chassis you should be able to use the v1 and v2 hangers without issue. You'd just need to make sure you have spare suspension pivot balls (TD330037) if you stick with v1 or aluminum hangers. And I am pretty sure you can get all the parts to convert to mid motor for the buggy that is still rear motor. Though if you're curious like me, you can keep one setup in MM and the other in RM and compare the two. I intend to do that with one of my 210's using the old Exotek carbon fiber chassis.

I believe the most important parts from the v2 are the shock towers (swept back design compared to v1 and rear tower has lower mounting holes), front shocks (they are shorter than v1) and front arms. The rear v2 arms only give you an additional mounting location for the shocks in the rear so the geometry is the same if you intend to keep the shocks mounted in front of the shock tower. The v2 gearbox is also nice to have as it has a beefed up design for the camber link mounts which was a weak spot on the v1. But as far as I know both v1 and v2 gearboxes are interchangeable.

Right now I am running the v1 gullwing arms with a v2 front shock tower and v2 shocks as recommended by Fredswain who put a lot of work into this buggy. The results have been pretty fantastic. I am also still running the v1 plastic RF hanger which just got destroyed at the track yesterday so now I'm moving to the Exotek hanger which is still available. I recommend it if you don't have one already. If the only aluminum bit in your steering rack is the ackerman plate, than I recommend also getting one of Exotek's steering rack upgrades as they are stupid cheap right now and make a big difference in longevity.
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Old 08-21-2017, 06:24 AM   #19587
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I need some more eyes on this. It ALMOST looks straight with new hardware installed. So the screws I think we're to blame. But it still seems off. Think it's still usable without negative handling effects?

Better pic


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Old 08-21-2017, 04:05 PM   #19588
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Picked up a couple of gear covers from the shop today.

Was inquiring about new chassis plate because my V2 is pretty scratch. But looks like only +8mm is available. How do you know if you have one or if not what is need to run that chassis?
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Old 08-21-2017, 04:09 PM   #19589
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Picked up a couple of gear covers from the shop today.

Was inquiring about new chassis plate because my V2 is pretty scratch. But looks like only +8mm is available. How do you know if you have one or if not what is need to run that chassis?
Great idea grabbing extra covers. I've heard people wear them out pretty quick.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-du...320215/p298924

You just need the +8mm side pods to run that chassis plate. Everything else just bolts on
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Old 08-21-2017, 05:31 PM   #19590
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Great idea grabbing extra covers. I've heard people wear them out pretty quick.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-du...320215/p298924

You just need the +8mm side pods to run that chassis plate. Everything else just bolts on
hmmm at that price might be cheaper to go exotek...or know where i can find a replacement aluminum chassis ?
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