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Old 11-14-2011, 06:27 PM   #1891
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True. It makes sense to most I'm sure. There are too many what ifs though to open a debate on theoretical partical physics, so lets leave it shut and hope we don't break our cars which there are no arms available for yet .
I read this with a broken DEX210 on the shelf waiting for said parts to come out.... shaking my head.

Great car none-the-less. Doesn't like hitting solid iron poles though
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Old 11-14-2011, 06:34 PM   #1892
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I have the nitride TC5 ballstuds, Kyosho hard ball cups and the Jconcepts ballcups for the kinked ones.
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Old 11-14-2011, 06:59 PM   #1893
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Hey guys, I can already tell the ball cups are going to be a problem. I have everything built and I go to adjust the camber on the car and I put my wrench on it and turn the turnbuckle and it just pulls the links right off the ball studs! I know it has been talked about on here, but what is everybody running as far as the balls and the plastic links go?
It's as simple as running the original durango ballcups. That way you can continue to run the stronger durango ballSTUDS that come on the car. The last thing you want is to put a weaker ball stud into the gearcase in the rear of the car, and have it break off.

This is what you want:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Ball-Joint-Set
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Old 11-14-2011, 07:01 PM   #1894
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About the circlip- it's not that either side is flatter, rather one side's edges are sharper, or more square whereas the other side is more rounded as a result of them being stamped.

I always break mine in out of the car with a drill. Both ways work, I just prefer this way over doing it in the car.
thanx! will do like so next time
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Old 11-14-2011, 07:05 PM   #1895
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Since we're on the subject.....

So the Durango Ballstuds are bigger and beefier than your typical B4 ones? I havn't seen them in person.

Now what's the actual weak point.....the ballcups? crappy plastic? they're breaking? bending? popping off easily? I missed this one.
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Old 11-14-2011, 07:08 PM   #1896
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Originally Posted by panic-rev View Post
Since we're on the subject.....

So the Durango Ballstuds are bigger and beefier than your typical B4 ones? I havn't seen them in person.

Now what's the actual weak point.....the ballcups? crappy plastic? they're breaking? bending? popping off easily? I missed this one.
The ballcups pop off easy.

I wouldn't say the Durango ballstuds are more or less durable than standard studs. They're a bit thicker but are hollowed out to allow a hex driver to install them so it's a draw IMO.
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Old 11-14-2011, 07:10 PM   #1897
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It's as simple as running the original durango ballcups. That way you can continue to run the stronger durango ballSTUDS that come on the car. The last thing you want is to put a weaker ball stud into the gearcase in the rear of the car, and have it break off.

This is what you want:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Ball-Joint-Set
Hey Captain I am a little confused are the ones for the DE410 different than the stock DEX210's? Am I missing something or what?
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Old 11-14-2011, 07:17 PM   #1898
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
It's as simple as running the original durango ballcups. That way you can continue to run the stronger durango ballSTUDS that come on the car. The last thing you want is to put a weaker ball stud into the gearcase in the rear of the car, and have it break off.

This is what you want:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Ball-Joint-Set
I'm a little confused by this post. So it's been discussed that there is a problem with ballcups, and you're saying to keep the stock ballstuds because they're stronger, but the solution is just buy more Durango ballcups?

I'm with you on preferably keeping the Durango studs, but I feel like I'm missing something here.
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Old 11-14-2011, 07:17 PM   #1899
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What is everyone running for batteries? I switched to a substantially lighter battery and it turned into a completely different car. . My corner speed went up drastically. I had trouble making a quad section that alot of the other buggies were making, now even with a low C battery it makes it fairly easy.
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Old 11-14-2011, 07:19 PM   #1900
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What is everyone running for batteries? I switched to a substantially lighter battery and it turned into a completely different car. . My corner speed went up drastically. I had trouble making a quad section that alot of the other buggies were making, now even with a low C battery it makes it fairly easy.
What battery are you using now? How much lighter?
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Old 11-14-2011, 07:27 PM   #1901
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I'm a little confused by this post. So it's been discussed that there is a problem with ballcups, and you're saying to keep the stock ballstuds because they're stronger, but the solution is just buy more Durango ballcups?

I'm with you on preferably keeping the Durango studs, but I feel like I'm missing something here.
They are the ballcups off of the desc or dex410.

I had trouble with those popping off too. It was mostly just the ones on the steering. It seemed to be mostly caused by the flex of the ackerman plate. I made one from carbon fiber and it seemed to fixed it.
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Old 11-14-2011, 07:36 PM   #1902
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I've been running the Protek Shorty since I received the car. I add one ounce near the servo since I was previously running a mid sized servo. I'm running one of the new KO RSX servos and have since removed 1/2 an ounce.
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Old 11-14-2011, 07:38 PM   #1903
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Circlip time! Ok, so I decided to bust out my macro lens and take a nice macro closeup of both sides of the circlip so that everybody will understand exactly what we are talking about when we say the "flat" or "sharp" side, and the "round" or "beveled" side. Side by side, it should be a bit more obvious here. Take note of the arrows, and you can see where/how it is particularly easy to spot the difference. The flat side is literally flat, like it was sanded down, and the round side looks beveled. The flat side should be facing the inside of the diff, and the beveled side should be facing the thrust assembly.
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Old 11-14-2011, 07:40 PM   #1904
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Quote:
Originally Posted by panic-rev View Post
I'm a little confused by this post. So it's been discussed that there is a problem with ballcups, and you're saying to keep the stock ballstuds because they're stronger, but the solution is just buy more Durango ballcups? .
Those are different ballcups. The ones that come on the 210 are the new "HD" ballcups, that pop off insanly easy. The original ballcups stay on MUCH better. I guess because the plastic is a tad softer, perhaps letting them flex a bit instead of just coming right off.
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Hey Captain I am a little confused are the ones for the DE410 different than the stock DEX210's? Am I missing something or what?
Yep.. they are different. And as long as you are running mid wheel base, or short wheel base, you can run the straight (non-bent) ball cups in the back of the car without issue.. they don't rub the gear cover. (CLOSE... but no contact. They will hit if you run long wheel base, I would bet) (This is for RM, btw... im not sure about MM)
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Old 11-14-2011, 07:47 PM   #1905
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I switched from the same packs I run in my desc to a stick pack that weighed 110g lighter.

I have been looking at new batteries alot since then.
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