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Old 02-01-2017, 09:16 AM   #18961
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Yeah,the stock covers are getting a little hard to find.. Lol

Doesn't STRC also make a cover for these?

Well it's the final setup week for this car before it actually gets to race against other cars. I've been so busy building other kits I haven't spent time with this car since I did the initial setup. We had a track change in between and now there are some BIG air jumps to contend with.

The car will fly. I had to trim the wing a bit and I'm still getting the balance right but I'm probably at a 1 bad landing per 10 minutes. This car likes to stay on its feet that's for sure. A few two wheel bumbles and the car will usually fall back down upright.

I find it a little hard to remain smooth and effortless around the track. So I changed to caster to 30 and reduced the rear droop a bit to try and settle it down. I'll know tomorrow.

I'm still not confident with the diff. I just don't like it and it feels wrong. The car is not showing any bad habits though.

I think I just need stick time. I don't expect to come out the gate 100% because I'm running an unfamiliar car and brand. Too many years with AE and these cars just feel different.
Alan,
Let us know how it goes. I've been toying with going to 30 caster as well.

I don't know what to tell you about the diff. I used to be a AE guy as well and love my Durango ball diffs. They last longer and stay smoother. Did you watch the video build of the diff on Durango website. It really clears up the build. I think too many people are putting too much silicon grease on the balls.

Good luck!!
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Old 02-01-2017, 09:53 PM   #18962
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OK, spent a few hours at the track today with the DEX210V3 and the DEST210R. The changes I made to the V3 were: 30 caster via +5 inserts. I also swapped a few more plastic spacers for the gold alloy ones- I hate those plastic washers, they crush and are not accurate. So my front end is accurate now. I also reduced the rear droop to 1mm less than the rear shock length. I love the ability to adjust droop via screws... I wish all cars had this. People don't realize how much of an effect droop has. I also reduced the area on the rear of the wing.

Anyway, I am definitely heading in the right direction. On power steering came up nicely, most sweepers can now be taken without lifting until late in the turn. The reduced rear droop really helped take away some of the nervousness. With the reduction of wing area, the car flew much more level as well.

The cars getting there. It has never felt as planted as my RC10's but I'm starting to think the tuning window is much more narrow than the RC10's. Plus this is a hard track for a 2wd buggy. Sometimes we have a 1/10 friendly layout, other times it's designed more for the 1/8 scale cars. So its rough with large jumps.

At this point I'm going to focus on the diff again. All three TD's with diffs don't feel right. The DESC210 isn't too bad. The DEST210 keeps getting rough way to quickly. The DEX210V3 is very smooth but just doesn't feel right. I'm putting my faith in Team Durango this year 100% so I've got to figure them out. What I'll likely do is buy a couple ball diff kits and just start building them. I'll keep doing it until I get them figured out. I've built them the manual way, the TD video way, doesn't matter. They are either too loose, too tight or grabby and gritty.

Man I've been building diffs for a really long time. Seriously. Somehow, someway, I keep making the same mistakes over and over with these. What's funny is that just over the month of January, I put together a B6D diff, a new to me B3 Factory Team diff and a TeamC TCO2C diff. All came out perfect. But all three TD diffs? Nope.... Lol
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Old 02-01-2017, 10:10 PM   #18963
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Try this thrust bearing in your diffs.

http://https://www.amainhobbies.com/schumacher-f3x8g-thrust-bearing-w-sini-balls-schu3704/p187085
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Old 02-01-2017, 10:12 PM   #18964
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Originally Posted by Alan_r View Post
OK, spent a few hours at the track today with the DEX210V3 and the DEST210R. The changes I made to the V3 were: 30 caster via +5 inserts. I also swapped a few more plastic spacers for the gold alloy ones- I hate those plastic washers, they crush and are not accurate. So my front end is accurate now. I also reduced the rear droop to 1mm less than the rear shock length. I love the ability to adjust droop via screws... I wish all cars had this. People don't realize how much of an effect droop has. I also reduced the area on the rear of the wing.

Anyway, I am definitely heading in the right direction. On power steering came up nicely, most sweepers can now be taken without lifting until late in the turn. The reduced rear droop really helped take away some of the nervousness. With the reduction of wing area, the car flew much more level as well.

The cars getting there. It has never felt as planted as my RC10's but I'm starting to think the tuning window is much more narrow than the RC10's. Plus this is a hard track for a 2wd buggy. Sometimes we have a 1/10 friendly layout, other times it's designed more for the 1/8 scale cars. So its rough with large jumps.

At this point I'm going to focus on the diff again. All three TD's with diffs don't feel right. The DESC210 isn't too bad. The DEST210 keeps getting rough way to quickly. The DEX210V3 is very smooth but just doesn't feel right. I'm putting my faith in Team Durango this year 100% so I've got to figure them out. What I'll likely do is buy a couple ball diff kits and just start building them. I'll keep doing it until I get them figured out. I've built them the manual way, the TD video way, doesn't matter. They are either too loose, too tight or grabby and gritty.

Man I've been building diffs for a really long time. Seriously. Somehow, someway, I keep making the same mistakes over and over with these. What's funny is that just over the month of January, I put together a B6D diff, a new to me B3 Factory Team diff and a TeamC TCO2C diff. All came out perfect. But all three TD diffs? Nope.... Lol
Im having lots of fun running this car. I gave my daughter the b5m and running this with a 13.5 in it. I like tinkering with all the settings. However I do run the Plan B chassis so not sure if the chassis effects the characteristics of the vehicle, but probably not.
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Old 02-01-2017, 10:13 PM   #18965
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This is the axle I'm talking about..
ASC91406
Their is no spacer to move. It's 8.99 from Amain.
The spacer between the screw and the hub bearing. (Pic)

Alan, I've had a lot of trouble with the Durango ball diff as well. It just wouldn't last. When I switched to a gear diff the car definitely felt less smooth and a little oversteer-y. The lap times didn't seem to suffer on a pretty high bite clay track especially once I worked out the oversteer. My b6d ball diff has about 15 packs of practice through it and still feels amazing.
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Durango DEX210 Thread-20170201_235836_001.jpg  
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Old 02-02-2017, 05:14 AM   #18966
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Can anyone that owns a V3 give me a good starting point for the driveshafts? I find the manual incredibly confusing especially since the manual is basically outdated (V2) and you have to rely on a single paper print that gives no explanation other than an arrow that's slightly pointed more inwards...

Anyway, right now I've built the 65mm shafts and they are in the deepest holes. Would this be a good starting point? What about toe-in? I'll be running medium/high grip fairly tight and bumpy astro tracks.
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Old 02-02-2017, 06:05 AM   #18967
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Hi Fearo,

With the 65 mm shaft on the most inner hole, you should be fine!
About toe-in, start with total toe of 3 deg, than you can play with and go less, if it's needed and if you like!?
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Old 02-02-2017, 06:11 AM   #18968
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Alan, because the ball diff, may you did watch about that already, but one thing you may have to look at is the washers from the thrust bearing, there is a larger and a smaller washer, the smaller one sits deeper in the femal outdrive, put than the bearing part and at the outer you put the larger washer... The thrust bearing can be greased quit well with black grease.

And as stated aboth, dont put to much silicone grease on the diff balls and washers, like the AE diffs, that will cause a slipping diff!
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Old 02-02-2017, 01:04 PM   #18969
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do you guys have a gear diff oil other than stock you'd recommend?

I have some old 1/8 nitro diff fluids kicking around still.
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Old 02-02-2017, 01:33 PM   #18970
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Originally Posted by Vujkovicv View Post
The spacer between the screw and the hub bearing. (Pic)

Alan, I've had a lot of trouble with the Durango ball diff as well. It just wouldn't last. When I switched to a gear diff the car definitely felt less smooth and a little oversteer-y. The lap times didn't seem to suffer on a pretty high bite clay track especially once I worked out the oversteer. My b6d ball diff has about 15 packs of practice through it and still feels amazing.
Thanks for the pic. I get what your saying now. Yes I put locktite on there as well. I also use the spacers inside to make a crush tube so there is no binding and a slim .1 or .2 shim where your showing in the pick to take up any slack/slop.

As for the diff. I run on med-high bite clay as well. Been thinking of trying a diff in it. I ran one in my DESC and liked it. What oil you running? I was thinking of trying 2 metal gears and about 7000. What are some of the things you did to decrease the oversteer issue.
Thanks ahead of time.
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Old 02-02-2017, 01:51 PM   #18971
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Originally Posted by banx View Post
do you guys have a gear diff oil other than stock you'd recommend?

I have some old 1/8 nitro diff fluids kicking around still.
I really like Kyosho oils. A little pricey but they've worked for me. I've used anywhere as high as 100k down to 5k
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Old 02-02-2017, 07:51 PM   #18972
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Alan, because the ball diff, may you did watch about that already, but one thing you may have to look at is the washers from the thrust bearing, there is a larger and a smaller washer, the smaller one sits deeper in the femal outdrive, put than the bearing part and at the outer you put the larger washer... The thrust bearing can be greased quit well with black grease.

And as stated aboth, dont put to much silicone grease on the diff balls and washers, like the AE diffs, that will cause a slipping diff!
Yes I caught that on the very first build last summer. I even paid attention to the direction the C clip faced ensuring the flat side was in the groove; until I got the new ones that are the same on both sides.

Something else I noticed that puzzles me. These diffs get to the point that they feel so gritty I feel they have to be rebuilt. Sometimes this happens within one battery. Once disassembled, all parts look brand new. Even under magnification,no flat spots on the balls, no grooves in the rings. I've used lots of lube, other times I've used just enough to put a slick on everything.

I'm not a big fan of gear diffs on 2wd's when running dirt outdoor tracks.

Judging by the feel of things, I think the issue is within the thrust bearing Assembly. I may give that aftermarket thrust bearing a try.

Example; I put together the last diff exactly as per the video. Lightly coated with diff grease where specified. I held the outdrives with hex keys, tightened the diff screw until I couldn't turn the diff gear while holding the hex keys. I applied just short of man screaming force to it. Yet, as soon as I sat it down on the track, the diff barked so loudly and the car just sat there. Three full turns of the diff screw later, the car would take off with no diff noise. WTF....

Last edited by Alan_r; 02-03-2017 at 06:09 AM.
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Old 02-02-2017, 08:50 PM   #18973
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Alan,
You make some great points. I don't think you are doing anything wrong. My first two ball diffs I did the same thing. Then I got the pro kit from b-fast and it was better. I don't think the tightening until you can't move the gear from the video is even close. Mine always have to be tightened more or they will bark. I break mine in in a drill and tighten 1/4 of a turn every 30" or so. I do a lot tighter once I can't turn the gear as well. Once it's barked it's gritty. I just rebuilt one recently with the Schumacher thrust bearing and stock Durango parts and its very smooth. I read way back that ceramic bearings shouldn't be used in this diff because they slip to easily. I ran the car with carbide in the diff and thrust with no issues. Heard ceramic is good in the thrust though.
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Old 02-03-2017, 06:17 AM   #18974
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Alan,
You make some great points. I don't think you are doing anything wrong. My first two ball diffs I did the same thing. Then I got the pro kit from b-fast and it was better. I don't think the tightening until you can't move the gear from the video is even close. Mine always have to be tightened more or they will bark. I break mine in in a drill and tighten 1/4 of a turn every 30" or so. I do a lot tighter once I can't turn the gear as well. Once it's barked it's gritty. I just rebuilt one recently with the Schumacher thrust bearing and stock Durango parts and its very smooth. I read way back that ceramic bearings shouldn't be used in this diff because they slip to easily. I ran the car with carbide in the diff and thrust with no issues. Heard ceramic is good in the thrust though.
Starting to think that as well. I break them in using the hold one wheel method. Everything feels great until I sit it on the ground.

Perhaps I should do one up where I slowly tighten the fully built diff down, being careful not to go to far and damage the rings. Then start tuning in the track by loosening it a 1/4 turn at a time instead of starting loose and tightening it. Basically reverse my tuning procedure.
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Old 02-03-2017, 08:32 AM   #18975
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Great idea!!
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