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Old 01-23-2017, 11:58 PM   #18931
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Originally Posted by fredswain View Post
I had a thought that we might not need to worry about suspension up travel if we do one mod. Look at the new cars like the 22 3.0 and the B6. They have new hubs and caster blocks that can mount the hinge pin lower down. This puts your chassis lower to the ground per the same suspension arm orientation and the wheels higher up by comparison. If we run the B6 rear hubs and front caster blocks/steering hubs, it should not only be better setup for high grip tracks since the cg lowers down, but will also effectively offset the suspension up travel woes. I bought some B6 rear hubs to try.
TD does have two different of those kind of rear hubs on the DESC410, with built in 0 and 1 deg toe.

Here is the link to the site:
http://www.team-durango.com/part-inf...artNo=TD340022
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Last edited by micholix; 01-24-2017 at 01:36 AM.
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Old 01-24-2017, 08:32 AM   #18932
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The 410 hubs don't work. The offset is different.

The B6 rear hubs do fit although if you want to retain the Durango axles you'll need to trim the outside of the hubs at the wheel end. The Associated axles and hexes would take care of the problem. You end up moving things by about 3mm. I don't have the front parts yet. This should work very well on high bite tracks. I actually had bought the parts to covert a rear motor B4.1 over for dirt oval use since I wanted the car to sit lower but didn't want the roll center change due to up angled arms at the ride height I was looking for.
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Old 01-24-2017, 11:15 AM   #18933
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Fred,
Thanks for checking. I would like to give them a try. Can you be a little more specific on what needs to be ground away to still use the Durango drive shafts?? Will it hurt durability ??
Thanks.
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Old 01-24-2017, 11:43 AM   #18934
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Everything drops right in, including the bearings. The hexes hit the hubs though because the bearings sit back in them further than the Durango hubs. Actually that's not quite accurate. The hubs stick out from the bearing more on the AE hubs. Install the outer bearing and then just trim the hub face back to match. If you try them, you'll see. It's pretty obvious.
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Old 01-24-2017, 12:21 PM   #18935
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Makes perfect sense.
Much appreciated!!
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Old 01-24-2017, 01:28 PM   #18936
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I have a couple of questions

1. On a gear diff there are two o rings shaped like bearings. Can you buy those separate or do I have to get a whole diff? I didn't see anything on Durangos site.

2. I was going to pop in the ball diff while I figure out the gear diff problem but the side with the screw for the long nut that goes through the diff rubs on the dog bone and the a arm doesn't move up and down because of it. I've tried everything. Am I missing something or forgetting something?
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Old 01-24-2017, 01:49 PM   #18937
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vujkovicv View Post
I have a couple of questions

1. On a gear diff there are two o rings shaped like bearings. Can you buy those separate or do I have to get a whole diff? I didn't see anything on Durangos site.

2. I was going to pop in the ball diff while I figure out the gear diff problem but the side with the screw for the long nut that goes through the diff rubs on the dog bone and the a arm doesn't move up and down because of it. I've tried everything. Am I missing something or forgetting something?
I belive you are looking for this http://www.team-durango.com/part-inf...artNo=TD711001
Though I only seem to find them on ebay
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Old 01-24-2017, 03:03 PM   #18938
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well guys, painted up the losi xxx body. painting skills will need to be brushed up on as well. but looks decent for sure.... eagerly waiting for some electronics to arrive and it's almost time for its maiden voyage.

I wish some of the newer bodies weren't so aggresive. I'm a fan of the older looking buggies.



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Old 01-24-2017, 03:48 PM   #18939
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vujkovicv View Post
I have a couple of questions

1. On a gear diff there are two o rings shaped like bearings. Can you buy those separate or do I have to get a whole diff? I didn't see anything on Durangos site.

2. I was going to pop in the ball diff while I figure out the gear diff problem but the side with the screw for the long nut that goes through the diff rubs on the dog bone and the a arm doesn't move up and down because of it. I've tried everything. Am I missing something or forgetting something?
For the gear diff you are looking at the x-ring. Similar to an O-ring. Just get any brand O-ring, believe it's a P-4 in size. They do better in the gear diff. The original X-rings leak.

As for the ball diff, something must be off. Watch the team Durango ball diff video build. It's helpful.

Good luck.
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Old 01-24-2017, 04:01 PM   #18940
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Thanks guys!
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Old 01-26-2017, 11:51 AM   #18941
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As for the o-rings on the geard diff, i use those in the link below from TD, but i think any 4x2 mm o-ring works!
Most of the 1/8 scale buggys use these sice in the shocks.
http://www.team-durango.com/part-inf...artNo=TD330611

About the ball diff, Look into the outdrive, if there is somthing behind the thrust bearing, reasamble it and clean it well, the td ball diff is great, when built correctly, may also those c-clip thing is not correctly in its seat!?
I have quit a nice space between the dogbone and the screw head there.
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Old 01-26-2017, 06:01 PM   #18942
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For the differentials I would at least use the purple P4. They have a higher S rating. Blue are great for shocks. I actually use one purple on the outside and blue on the inside. Someone gave that tip way back in this thread.
I actually have been using the standard orange Kyosho P4 with good results.
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Old 01-27-2017, 01:54 PM   #18943
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I ordered the purple ones a few days ago. Thanks for the replies guys. I'm going to a carpet track tonight. Hopefully the dirt set up plus gear diff does OK.
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Old 01-29-2017, 10:59 PM   #18944
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I ordered the purple ones a few days ago. Thanks for the replies guys. I'm going to a carpet track tonight. Hopefully the dirt set up plus gear diff does OK.
How did it go at the track??
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Old 01-30-2017, 07:58 AM   #18945
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I still haven't done anything to the car since installing the Exotek chassis but the Team Azarashi Lepter body did come in. I have yet to paint it though. It's going to fit awesome and the shape is definitely cool. All other bodies should just run away and hide in shame.
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