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Old 01-03-2017, 06:22 PM   #18766
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Default Raise front bulkhead 2-3 mm

Fred and the rest of us. I just got back from the track with the kids today. Ran the 210v2 - and 210f. Had a blast with both. But I agree with the front suspension issues with up travel. Can someone with a 3D printer make a 2-3 mm spacer that will fit in-between the front bulkheads. We can place it above the bulkhead that holds the arms and under the brace that holds the shocktower. It would only raise the body 2-3 mm depending on how this its made and won't change the arm geometry. If the recessed holes are done correctly it should be strong as well.
What you think guys? Fred??
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Old 01-03-2017, 07:42 PM   #18767
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Fred and the rest of us. I just got back from the track with the kids today. Ran the 210v2 - and 210f. Had a blast with both. But I agree with the front suspension issues with up travel. Can someone with a 3D printer make a 2-3 mm spacer that will fit in-between the front bulkheads. We can place it above the bulkhead that holds the arms and under the brace that holds the shocktower. It would only raise the body 2-3 mm depending on how this its made and won't change the arm geometry. If the recessed holes are done correctly it should be strong as well.
What you think guys? Fred??
I'd rather just have a slightly taller front tower and use the V1 shocks with the V2 arms.
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Old 01-03-2017, 07:53 PM   #18768
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well had a pleasant surprise as I was swapping it to a 3gear, I have an actual gear diff.

so I cleaned it and put it back together, butter smooth until you tighten up the case then it binds.

the case had to be fairly fairly loose to be smooth, is this normal? and the case is relying on the pressure of the suspension components and the keyed chassis to stay together?
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Old 01-03-2017, 08:06 PM   #18769
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well had a pleasant surprise as I was swapping it to a 3gear, I have an actual gear diff.

so I cleaned it and put it back together, butter smooth until you tighten up the case then it binds.

the case had to be fairly fairly loose to be smooth, is this normal? and the case is relying on the pressure of the suspension components and the keyed chassis to stay together?
I don't think it's normal but I did have a similar issue. I had replaced everything in the transmission withoyt resolving tge issue and it all came down to how tight the transmission case screws were. I just barely tighten them down and I make sure to use blue lock tight for the screws that go into the motor mount.
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Old 01-03-2017, 08:28 PM   #18770
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thanks for the quick reply. i did the same with the loctite. it just appeared that the previous owner had tightened the case down more than me in 4 gear and there was no binding.

anyways, it appears to be nice and snug now as the arms and turnbuckles were installed.


you guys have your shocks mounted on the front of the rear suspension arms or back? theres a couple of setups on petiterc that i will copy

great little buggy to work on

Last edited by banx; 01-03-2017 at 08:42 PM.
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Old 01-03-2017, 08:38 PM   #18771
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Make sure the gear diff has no shims like the ball diff needs.
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Old 01-03-2017, 09:08 PM   #18772
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damn, there were 2 shims for the idle gear. so i left them in..... thanks. see if that helps
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Old 01-04-2017, 08:49 AM   #18773
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thanks for the quick reply. i did the same with the loctite. it just appeared that the previous owner had tightened the case down more than me in 4 gear and there was no binding.

anyways, it appears to be nice and snug now as the arms and turnbuckles were installed.


you guys have your shocks mounted on the front of the rear suspension arms or back? theres a couple of setups on petiterc that i will copy

great little buggy to work on

I'm currently running the V3 as a MM3 with the shocks on the back of the rear arms. It took some time to get that car dialed in but now it's really fast. My lap times were in between my SPEC 17.5 B5M and my 7.5 powered B5MCE. i'm waiting on my 7.5 to arrive for the 210V3, replacing a 10.5, so those lap times should get a little closer as I'll be able to clear a few more jumps. Once done, I just need stick time with the 210, well all the TD cars really. They drive differently than my AE cars, which I'm familiar and comfortable with.

Did any of you guys look at that FWD DEX210V2? last post on TH page gets missed sometimes. They are working on updating it for the V3 but the company and FB page is very active. They are having success with the car. I expected it to have been a dream that someone thought up and then it flamed out, but no, it's not only moving forward, but winning. The conversion is not cheap, but cool enough to be worth it to me.

On that note, 210V2's are not easy to find at the moment. V1's and V3's are everywhere but no V2's. I didn't know it at the time, but the flat arms on the V2 are the same arms that come on the F. I did find a shop in the UK that had V2 flat arms in stock so I ordered three pair for future use. Anyway, they seem to be the only V2 parts that are hard to find at times. I would say the body but with the aftermarket bodies available for the V1 and 2 I'm not worried about that yet.
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Old 01-04-2017, 10:17 AM   #18774
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I don't care what anyone says, flat arms and gull wing arms handle exactly the same. Marketing and mass repetition makes people believe weird things. The gull wing arms on the 210 were fairly extreme and people had problems with them digging in on some dirt tracks. Those tracks are all but gone now. I see no problems running gull wing arms on turf, carpet or blue groove tracks so if you can't find enough arms, convert over to them.
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Old 01-04-2017, 10:30 AM   #18775
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What I thought was interesting was that on the majority of vehicles that offer gull wing or flat arms as an option, they require a tower change as well to take advantage of the different angles available. Durango did not do this, instead, they advertised it as having more clearance, as you said, Fred. So this may very well hold true for TD cars. However, I do use the two options (or did anyway) when tuning my AE T4.2. The biggest effect was on the initial turn in feel of the truck. Again, doesn't seem to apply to the Durango as they don't use it as a tuning option apparently. I just thought it was cool that the 210f uses those V2 flat arms. This means they will (should) be available again, instead of just being discontinued. I tend to adjust my driving to the design of the car instead of adjusting the design of the car to suit my driving. (Totally different than tuning) So if the V2 came with flat arms, that's what I'll likely run on it unless it was a designed tuning option.
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Old 01-04-2017, 11:36 AM   #18776
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Originally Posted by Alan_r View Post
I'm currently running the V3 as a MM3 with the shocks on the back of the rear arms. It took some time to get that car dialed in but now it's really fast. My lap times were in between my SPEC 17.5 B5M and my 7.5 powered B5MCE. i'm waiting on my 7.5 to arrive for the 210V3, replacing a 10.5, so those lap times should get a little closer as I'll be able to clear a few more jumps. Once done, I just need stick time with the 210, well all the TD cars really. They drive differently than my AE cars, which I'm familiar and comfortable with.

Did any of you guys look at that FWD DEX210V2? last post on TH page gets missed sometimes. They are working on updating it for the V3 but the company and FB page is very active. They are having success with the car. I expected it to have been a dream that someone thought up and then it flamed out, but no, it's not only moving forward, but winning. The conversion is not cheap, but cool enough to be worth it to me.

On that note, 210V2's are not easy to find at the moment. V1's and V3's are everywhere but no V2's. I didn't know it at the time, but the flat arms on the V2 are the same arms that come on the F. I did find a shop in the UK that had V2 flat arms in stock so I ordered three pair for future use. Anyway, they seem to be the only V2 parts that are hard to find at times. I would say the body but with the aftermarket bodies available for the V1 and 2 I'm not worried about that yet.
I know I'm bastardizing my 210 but I used the b5m front straight arms on mine. I had to Dremel off the area where the droop screws touched on front arm mount but it fit like a glove. Also had to remove the bottom shock mounts and replace with AE the Durango are to wide to fit in the area to mount shocks
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Old 01-04-2017, 11:36 AM   #18777
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Talking to the AE B6 guys the gullwing setup (I say setup as its not just the a-arms you are changing) seems to smooth the steering response out versus the flat setup. Maybe the full geometry change other than just the a-arms is where this comes from.

I run gullwings there now since that is the stock b6 setup and I like the feel.
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Old 01-04-2017, 11:47 AM   #18778
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Any perceived difference would be the result of a slight change of shock location in height and width. With the gull wing, the proper thing to do is have a slightly wider front tower to keep the shock angle equivalent. AE was smart enough to realize this. When Durango copied the B4 geometry, they integrated in the gull wing shape but completely overlooked this.
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Old 01-04-2017, 02:05 PM   #18779
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I'm surprised that no one made a wider shock tower for the DEX210 to address that.
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Old 01-04-2017, 02:09 PM   #18780
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Kinda funny that I had upgraded to the flat arms a little over a year ago before I got sick and stopped racing. I still haven't tested out the straight arms to this day lol they're brand new on the chassis. Looking forward to getting on track next week though.
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