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Old 11-14-2011, 09:10 AM   #1861
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Originally Posted by panic-rev View Post
From Hopsing's and Bman's posts above, I am going to stick with the stock 6 hole and probably throw in some AE 35/30 to start, see where it takes me. Thanks for the input.

I wonder if the nature of the fatter shock just calls for thicker oil? Say compared to the thinner B4 style? Does that have anything to do with it? Just when I heard these thicker oil numbers being thrown around, I was like whaow.....1/8 scale.
In short, yes. We were using 6 holes on the desc410 for a long time and wound up with very heavy oils- 1000cst front and 800cst rear. Once we switched to some 4 hole pistons and lightened the oil up accordingly it brought life to the truck which Cush felt was slightly lazy due to the heavy oils.

We initially ran 6 holes on the 210 and the car worked very well out of the box, but with the recommended kit oil there was significant chassis slap. Closing off 2 holes per piston and going lighter on the oil maintained the car's excellent responsiveness while eliminating chassis slap in most racing conditions. Overshoot and flat land a big jump and you likely will still slap, but that is the case with most cars.

If I was driving the car I would likely end up 150-200 cst higher, but I need a car with less response and a slightly numb feeling as my car control and reflexes are less than outstanding. Cush prefers a car that reacts instantly to inputs, so this setup works better for him. There is no right and wrong, only what works best for you.
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Old 11-14-2011, 10:14 AM   #1862
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Yep, and for anyone outside the EU we don't have to charge the UK sales tax, so that makes the prices even better;

AKR-210-CF00742 - DEX210 Carbon Fibre Front Shock Tower = 9.58
AKR-210-CF00842 - DEX210 Carbon Fibre Rear Shock Tower = 11.25
AKR-210-CF00930 - DEX210 Carbon Fibre Steering Plate = 5.00
AKR-210-CF01020 - DEX210 Carbon Fibre Battery Strap = 11.25

We've had the towers and steering link thoroughly durability/crash tested and not broken any, and we've increased the spec of the material for the production parts so hopefully these should sort out the two main weak points of the car.
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Old 11-14-2011, 10:14 AM   #1863
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Good read Johnny5.
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Old 11-14-2011, 10:20 AM   #1864
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hopefully these should sort out the two main weak points of the car.
Shock towers and steering plate? Weak points? I didn't hear.

Shock towers make obvious sense. I did order some extra towers just cuz they were exposed and looked like they could take the brunt of a crash. But these CF ones look sweet and blingy.

But are people really breaking steering plates? Or is this just a trick blingy thing. Looks cool, just wondering if I really need to rush out and replace it.

Thankfully the wing mount looks genious and countersunk on the 210. Cant tell you how many B4 wing mounts I replaced.
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Old 11-14-2011, 10:22 AM   #1865
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Hey all, just a piece of info for you in case you end up in the situation I'm in with a broken ackerman arm, the Associated arm for a B4 will work fine. Just end up having to lengthen your steering links a bit.
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Old 11-14-2011, 10:48 AM   #1866
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Originally Posted by panic-rev View Post
Shock towers and steering plate? Weak points? I didn't hear.

Shock towers make obvious sense. I did order some extra towers just cuz they were exposed and looked like they could take the brunt of a crash. But these CF ones look sweet and blingy.

But are people really breaking steering plates? Or is this just a trick blingy thing. Looks cool, just wondering if I really need to rush out and replace it.

Thankfully the wing mount looks genious and countersunk on the 210. Cant tell you how many B4 wing mounts I replaced.
There have been some issues with the rear towers in hard crashes or hard landings where you case the landing. A couple of people have had the steering plate break....there is no servo saver so if anything is going to break, thats the piece I'd want to break, so not sure if going to that is the greatest idea, but hey it looks great!
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Old 11-14-2011, 11:34 AM   #1867
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I ordered all 4 pieces from Akula... I will report back on their fit, finish, and quality.
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Old 11-14-2011, 11:49 AM   #1868
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Default silly diff Qs

hi guys.. wanna know if its a good idea to break-in the diff b4 assembling the gear box into the chassis? like connecting motor/esc etc, using a hex driver to hold one side while running it to break it in?

asking cos i thot i had the circlip correct, fix up the truck, then went ahead to break-in the diff by setting one side down while slowly applying throttle. but less than 2 mins in i felt something like a click and then the diff failed!
more than a dozen screws later flipped the circlip and went back to breakin it in..

in all honesty i could barely tell which side is 'flatter'? and i tried my best to face the 'flatter' side away from the thrust washer.
just wanna made sure it can be done like above in case i do a rebuild?

thanx
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Old 11-14-2011, 12:05 PM   #1869
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
I ordered all 4 pieces from Akula... I will report back on their fit, finish, and quality.
It will be good, i have the 22 conversion/shorter chassis and you wont be disappointed!
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Old 11-14-2011, 12:27 PM   #1870
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Originally Posted by chiatw73 View Post
hi guys.. wanna know if its a good idea to break-in the diff b4 assembling the gear box into the chassis? like connecting motor/esc etc, using a hex driver to hold one side while running it to break it in?

asking cos i thot i had the circlip correct, fix up the truck, then went ahead to break-in the diff by setting one side down while slowly applying throttle. but less than 2 mins in i felt something like a click and then the diff failed!
more than a dozen screws later flipped the circlip and went back to breakin it in..

in all honesty i could barely tell which side is 'flatter'? and i tried my best to face the 'flatter' side away from the thrust washer.
just wanna made sure it can be done like above in case i do a rebuild?

thanx
About the circlip- it's not that either side is flatter, rather one side's edges are sharper, or more square whereas the other side is more rounded as a result of them being stamped.

I always break mine in out of the car with a drill. Both ways work, I just prefer this way over doing it in the car.
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Old 11-14-2011, 01:43 PM   #1871
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Originally Posted by Glowster21 View Post
...... a broken ackerman arm, the Associated arm for a B4 will work fine. Just end up having to lengthen your steering links a bit.
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A couple of people have had the steering plate break....there is no servo saver so if anything is going to break, thats the piece I'd want to break, so not sure if going to that is the greatest idea
Are these the same piece? B4 Ackerman = 210 Steering Plate?

Wow....didn't realize there was no servo saver on the 210. The B4 essentially doesn't have one either since it sux and they all superglue them shut.

But yeh, I agree with Hopsing....something's gotta give/break. A steering link I could be cool with, especially if the shop has a B4 replacement. But just blabbing here, as my car hasn't been delivered yet (a few days).
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Old 11-14-2011, 02:28 PM   #1872
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
I ordered all 4 pieces from Akula... I will report back on their fit, finish, and quality.
I have been testing these towers for the past 3 weeks at stotfold, i can say the quality is excellent, they fit perfect & i haven't broken anything
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Old 11-14-2011, 03:03 PM   #1873
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Originally Posted by panic-rev View Post
But yeh, I agree with Hopsing....something's gotta give/break. A steering link I could be cool with, especially if the shop has a B4 replacement. But just blabbing here, as my car hasn't been delivered yet (a few days).
But not necessarily. Lets say you made the steering link out of cardboard... going around the track, it would eventually break, yeah? But you wouldn't say "but SOMEthing has to break". I'm not sure if you have your 210 yet or not, but this piece looks REALLY fragile.... my point is, maybe if this piece were stronger, nothing at ALL would break. It won't necessarily break something else.
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Old 11-14-2011, 03:04 PM   #1874
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I have been testing these towers for the past 3 weeks at stotfold, i can say the quality is excellent, they fit perfect & i haven't broken anything
Awesome! I ordred mine on Friday. I hope to have them late this week or early next week.
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Old 11-14-2011, 03:14 PM   #1875
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But not necessarily. Lets say you made the steering link out of cardboard... going around the track, it would eventually break, yeah? But you wouldn't say "but SOMEthing has to break". I'm not sure if you have your 210 yet or not, but this piece looks REALLY fragile.... my point is, maybe if this piece were stronger, nothing at ALL would break. It won't necessarily break something else.
Cush took a shot on a front wheel from another car (blowing the corner entry) and stripped the servo arm. It seems the plastic servo arm is the weak link. I threw an aluminum one on it and no issues since.
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