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Old 10-23-2016, 06:24 PM   #18466
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This may be a bit off topic but there's been so much talk about standard length lipo vs saddles vs shorty and they're given mAh and weight comparison compared to chassis balance. What is everyone running capacity wise? I know my 4000 standards weigh substantial less than my 5100 saddles.
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Old 10-23-2016, 09:10 PM   #18467
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This may be a bit off topic but there's been so much talk about standard length lipo vs saddles vs shorty and they're given mAh and weight comparison compared to chassis balance. What is everyone running capacity wise? I know my 4000 standards weigh substantial less than my 5100 saddles.
I am running a 4400 shorty. This car is so much better with a shorty in it in my opinion. Totally changed the car for me. Was running a stick pack at 4000. When I went to shorty, handled so much better.
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Old 10-23-2016, 09:13 PM   #18468
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http://www.insidelinerc.com/off-road...-to-the-story/

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Originally Posted by Kremzeek View Post
Yeah, that's the rumor and its primarily do to their cars being discontinued or backordered everywhere. Kinda hard to take them seriously when you can't buy their kits.
This may be the source
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Old 10-24-2016, 06:51 AM   #18469
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Originally Posted by iDesign5 View Post
This may be a bit off topic but there's been so much talk about standard length lipo vs saddles vs shorty and they're given mAh and weight comparison compared to chassis balance. What is everyone running capacity wise? I know my 4000 standards weigh substantial less than my 5100 saddles.
Started out running 5000mah sticks. Moved to 4200 & 4400 short packs so I can move weight around to change handling.same for st & SC. Run 5000mah saddle in 410v5 ,7500 stick in desc10
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Old 10-24-2016, 07:35 AM   #18470
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This may be a bit off topic but there's been so much talk about standard length lipo vs saddles vs shorty and they're given mAh and weight comparison compared to chassis balance. What is everyone running capacity wise? I know my 4000 standards weigh substantial less than my 5100 saddles.
I also switched to a 4400 shorty from a stick pack and I liked the way the buggy handled better with the shorty.
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Old 10-24-2016, 10:15 AM   #18471
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Night and day different than before. The car is very drivable now. It still feels a bit loose compared to my 5M but I'm definitely getting there. Thank you all for the help. Wall: I can definitely see why you suggested the 2/1.7 in the rear shocks. The 3/1.6 was good, but it left me wanting more pack back there. I forgot to bring my bag of tires so I was running a good, but not optimal tire package. 3DS when I needed Holeshots. The car has a tendency to suddenly have sharp oversteer when off power coming around the final part of the apex of a turn. I have to back off due to slight on power understeer, this is when it happens. Could be the tire package, though the diff still doesn't feel right to me. I decided not to change anything today because of the tires but tonight I'll be installing the 2/1.7 pistons. Wednesday I'll come back out, with tires and see if it goes away. But definitely a 90% improvement. Now I gotta work for that last 10%!
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Old 10-24-2016, 11:18 AM   #18472
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Alan,

Happy to hear, the car is working much better now!
I always do like two hole pistons on all my cars, cause of the pack...

Keep us informed, how it works out!
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Old 10-24-2016, 01:13 PM   #18473
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Originally Posted by Alan_r View Post
Night and day different than before. The car is very drivable now. It still feels a bit loose compared to my 5M but I'm definitely getting there. Thank you all for the help. Wall: I can definitely see why you suggested the 2/1.7 in the rear shocks. The 3/1.6 was good, but it left me wanting more pack back there. I forgot to bring my bag of tires so I was running a good, but not optimal tire package. 3DS when I needed Holeshots. The car has a tendency to suddenly have sharp oversteer when off power coming around the final part of the apex of a turn. I have to back off due to slight on power understeer, this is when it happens. Could be the tire package, though the diff still doesn't feel right to me. I decided not to change anything today because of the tires but tonight I'll be installing the 2/1.7 pistons. Wednesday I'll come back out, with tires and see if it goes away. But definitely a 90% improvement. Now I gotta work for that last 10%!
whats the full setup you are at right now? That can help with getting that last 10%
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Old 10-24-2016, 01:49 PM   #18474
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Alan,
You may want to try 30 degrees front caster for the surface you are on. Your set up sheet said 25, which generally is for higher grip. Just something to try and see if it smooths out your steering. I tried both. I am on higher grip indoor dirt/clay. 25 worked for me. But 30 wasn't too bad.
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Old 10-24-2016, 08:12 PM   #18475
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http://site.petitrc.com/setup/durang...RDirt20150620/

Cain, it's currently this setup except for the transmission, which is MM3. The car had a ton of steering. The only things I noticed were the following:

The rear end would slap a little on jumps that are not usually downsided. My ae's Are plush here by comparison. Likely Walls suggestion to use 2/1.7 in the rear will correct this.

We have a wide sweeper after a medium straight that with my other cars gets attacked by braking upon entering, once the car is settled I can slowly accelerate as it winds around. The DEX requires me to let off during the last 1/4 of it or it will push towards the outside of the pipe. Once I let off it gets in line quickly. Reminds me of a RM car.

On sharp 45 degree plus turns, it has a tendency to snap oversteer right when I'm about to straighten the wheels. It seemsbto happen a split before I start accelerating out of the turn.

The car is so much better to drive than it was last week but it still requires a lot of work to get it around the track quickly. I'm sure by practising with these quirks it could be competitive. But I still think there's more to be found. I'm a very smooth driver and my lap YO lqp consistency is pretty tightly grouped. This car makes it more difficult to do this because of some of the unpredictability. It's my only 2wd buggy that feels this way.

In the back of my mind I know that this is a European car being tuned for a typical American, outdoor 1/8 scale dirt/clay track so I expected many baseline settings to be way off. At higher levels of grip I could definitely see the current setup working well.

I definitely want to change the rear pistons and try out a few tires before making any other changes though. 30 degrees of Caster sounds like the right direction.
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Old 10-24-2016, 10:23 PM   #18476
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Originally Posted by Alan_r View Post
http://site.petitrc.com/setup/durang...RDirt20150620/

Cain, it's currently this setup except for the transmission, which is MM3. The car had a ton of steering. The only things I noticed were the following:

The rear end would slap a little on jumps that are not usually downsided. My ae's Are plush here by comparison. Likely Walls suggestion to use 2/1.7 in the rear will correct this.

We have a wide sweeper after a medium straight that with my other cars gets attacked by braking upon entering, once the car is settled I can slowly accelerate as it winds around. The DEX requires me to let off during the last 1/4 of it or it will push towards the outside of the pipe. Once I let off it gets in line quickly. Reminds me of a RM car.

On sharp 45 degree plus turns, it has a tendency to snap oversteer right when I'm about to straighten the wheels. It seemsbto happen a split before I start accelerating out of the turn.

The car is so much better to drive than it was last week but it still requires a lot of work to get it around the track quickly. I'm sure by practising with these quirks it could be competitive. But I still think there's more to be found. I'm a very smooth driver and my lap YO lqp consistency is pretty tightly grouped. This car makes it more difficult to do this because of some of the unpredictability. It's my only 2wd buggy that feels this way.

In the back of my mind I know that this is a European car being tuned for a typical American, outdoor 1/8 scale dirt/clay track so I expected many baseline settings to be way off. At higher levels of grip I could definitely see the current setup working well.

I definitely want to change the rear pistons and try out a few tires before making any other changes though. 30 degrees of Caster sounds like the right direction.
A quick thing to try for avoid the snap oversteer would be to lengthen the gear camber links a little.
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Old 10-25-2016, 01:20 AM   #18477
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A quick thing to try for avoid the snap oversteer would be to lengthen the gear camber links a little.
Pistol: thanks I was considering that or lay the rear shocks down one hole increase rear side bite. It's real close. Thx
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Old 10-25-2016, 04:33 AM   #18478
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I had the same problem with the steering. I layed the shocks down one whole hole and that seemed to help.
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Old 10-25-2016, 07:08 AM   #18479
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just an FYI I would not be surprised if that setup is running the shorty mod even though I don't "think" the link mentions that.
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Old 10-25-2016, 11:03 AM   #18480
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just an FYI I would not be surprised if that setup is running the shorty mod even though I don't "think" the link mentions that.
Yeah it definitely does not mention that mod. It just says shorty used in the back position. Does this car REALLY require a complete chassis change to run right? Looking at how a shorty would be positioned with that mod, it seems that more weight is over the rear axle in the stock rear position. With my electronics on the sides, it creates a T almost perfectly, very similar to the way my B4FT is set up.

The vintage car on the top is absolutely dialled. Consistent laps within a few seconds are almost too easy.
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Last edited by Alan_r; 10-25-2016 at 11:19 AM.
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