R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

Like Tree32Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-21-2016, 02:13 PM   #18436
Tech Legend
 
Cain's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: West Fargo, North Dakota
Posts: 29,059
Trader Rating: 235 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan_r View Post
It was here earlier in the thread. Rumors usually start from something someone heard and they believed it was credible. Whether it was misconstrued or not or was simply a guess is the question.

Anyway, wasn't the sideways shorty mod more for high grip clay tracks? Indoor setups maybe? I seek out and drive only on outdoor dirt/clay tracks. Usually 1/8 scale dominated. They are the only true off road tracks left...🖕lol. I probably should have started this car out RM but that's so 2010 lol...no really, I think this car will work MM here, it's just that something is wrong. I looked at my setup closely again and nothing stands out as a huge red flag that would explain the handling of the car.
I ran the car on a 1/8 real dirt track, like step pins when watered and the shorty mod + shocks to the rear really planted the rear end.
__________________
Member - Red River Radio/Control Car Club
< Tekno SCT410.3 x 2 |HB Racing D413 x 2 | Tekno EB48SL | Yokomo YZ-2 DTM x 2>
Cain is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2016, 02:16 PM   #18437
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: South East US
Posts: 713
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pistol123 View Post
I notice you are running (if I am reading it correctly) zero anti squat, I run that with mm3 but when I tried it with mm4 it turned it into a drift monster. I think mm4 give you too much weight transfer so you get too much camber gain exiting corners.
That's correct, I'm running zero anti-squat. I thought that was weird when I put it together but that's what the kit, high traction dirt setup called for. I'm running 3 degrees AS on my AE mid motor cars on this same track. I kind of when into the build with open.eyes but since I've never built a Durango car I figured I'd try it their way first.

Being that the car was so bad, I'm not going to do the one change at a time setup procedure with this one. It needs a new setup completely. Someone mentioned that the 210 has almost the same geometry as the B4. If that's the truth, I may try some of my setups that I've used on my B4's. There's just so many things that didn't seem right when I put it together. For example the high rear roll center via short rear camber links.

I've got the car on the bench right now and I'm tearing through it, verifying everything and checking for proper function. I'm definitely trying out the MM3. Not sure what else I'll change just yet.
Alan_r is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2016, 03:16 PM   #18438
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 672
Default

I think you are getting good advice. If you don't want to do the shorty mod, put the shorty all the way back. Electronics as far back as possible in the sidepods. Not all inline.
Put shocks on rear of arms.
Go MM3
Your ride height is too low. Probably bottoming out on landing which makes it squirrelly. Most are running 23-24. Only 19-20 on carpet. That may have shoved the shock shafts down one too many times causing them to strip??
I would also go to 2x1.6 front and 1.7 rest to increase pack. You said your on 1-8 style track to help with landings. Have fun. .. we are here to help.
I've messed around with rear LRC blocks and HRC blocks. I think LRC for your situation is better and go 1.5 anti-squat.
WallyRC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2016, 03:36 PM   #18439
Tech Legend
 
Cain's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: West Fargo, North Dakota
Posts: 29,059
Trader Rating: 235 (100%+)
Default

good catch on the 3 hole pistons, yeah I would go with the 2 hole as mentioned by wally.
__________________
Member - Red River Radio/Control Car Club
< Tekno SCT410.3 x 2 |HB Racing D413 x 2 | Tekno EB48SL | Yokomo YZ-2 DTM x 2>
Cain is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2016, 03:56 PM   #18440
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: South East US
Posts: 713
Default

Thanks guys, looks like I've got a busy Friday night ahead of me....

Doing the diff.....again.

MM3

Rebuilding shocks with 2/1.6 and 2/1.7

I think I've got the rest of the electronics as far back as I can.

I was going to do 3 degrees anti squat but from what I read earlier, the MM3 should start at 0 correct?
Attached Thumbnails
Durango DEX210 Thread-1477090345757754236768.jpg   Durango DEX210 Thread-1477090398496-279401064.jpg  
Alan_r is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2016, 05:16 PM   #18441
Tech Legend
 
Cain's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: West Fargo, North Dakota
Posts: 29,059
Trader Rating: 235 (100%+)
Default

I would look into some of the settings here outside of things like MM3:

http://site.petitrc.com/setup/durang...RDirt20150620/

still go with the shock pistons as mentioned though.
__________________
Member - Red River Radio/Control Car Club
< Tekno SCT410.3 x 2 |HB Racing D413 x 2 | Tekno EB48SL | Yokomo YZ-2 DTM x 2>
Cain is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2016, 05:16 PM   #18442
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 672
Default Shock building tip

We have all learned the hard way. Make sure you clean the shafts good and thread lock the little screw holding the piston on. Let dry overnight before putting oil back in. I have had a few back out on me. No fun. Wish they were C-clips for fast change.
Also, lightly use lube on diff balls. Don't lather it like we do on the AE ones. These ball diffs are awesome.
WallyRC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2016, 05:33 PM   #18443
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: South East US
Posts: 713
Default

Yeah it's funny, this car was released what, this year? I feel like I'm building an early Gen 3 car. Snap rings? Lol.

Anyway, trans is done. Researching where I'm gonna start with the anti squat. Experience tells me 2.5 to 3. But from the earlier posts this may not be the case with this car. At least all these parts feel high quality. Time to do some reading.

Now, looking at Daughertys setup, he chose MM4 I assume due to the low traction but wanted to maintain the corner speed of the MM setup. Why are you guys pushing the MM3? I'm not debating you, I just interested in the reasoning. MM4 provides more traction due to the physics of it, forcing weight transfer. MM3 will eliminate most of this. Is it due to the car remaining more settled?
Alan_r is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2016, 05:53 PM   #18444
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: South East US
Posts: 713
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cain View Post
I would look into some of the settings here outside of things like MM3:

http://site.petitrc.com/setup/durang...RDirt20150620/

still go with the shock pistons as mentioned though.
Thanks Cain, I like the looks of that setup. It makes sense. So that's where I'm going to start, except for the following changes:

MM3

2/1.6 front 350cst
2/1.7 rear 300cst

Seems like as good a start point as any. I had forgotten that I had the option of putting the rear shocks front or back. Nice feature there.
Alan_r is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2016, 10:25 PM   #18445
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Austria
Posts: 591
Default

Hi Alan,

By looking at your set up sheet, i saw you are using the long 65 mm drive shafts at the outer hole on the axles, do they not bind on the diff out drives?
With the v3 kit there are cominng two length of drive shafts, 62.5 and 65 mm.
On TD web side, they mention, to use the longer 65 mm drive shafts at the most inner hole, the 62.5 mm on the middle and the optional 57.5 mm on the outer hole on the axle...
You should have a look at that too, not this is a case your car is doing crasy things?
__________________
Greetings from Austria

Cat K2 / DEX410V3 / DEX410V5 / DEX210 / DEX210F / Cougar SVR /
YZ-10 '94/'95 WCS/
Spectrum DX3R
micholix is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2016, 12:23 AM   #18446
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 159
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan_r View Post
Yeah it's funny, this car was released what, this year? I feel like I'm building an early Gen 3 car. Snap rings? Lol.

Anyway, trans is done. Researching where I'm gonna start with the anti squat. Experience tells me 2.5 to 3. But from the earlier posts this may not be the case with this car. At least all these parts feel high quality. Time to do some reading.

Now, looking at Daughertys setup, he chose MM4 I assume due to the low traction but wanted to maintain the corner speed of the MM setup. Why are you guys pushing the MM3? I'm not debating you, I just interested in the reasoning. MM4 provides more traction due to the physics of it, forcing weight transfer. MM3 will eliminate most of this. Is it due to the car remaining more settled?
That's exactly why I prefer mm3, was also experiencing push on long radius corners where I could slowly bring in more power but was limited by the front drifting wide.I am under weight and found that adding 25g under the motor also helped lap times.

Also watch for the front collapsing and lifting the inside rear, cured this by raising the front rc and lengthening the rear top links.
Pistol123 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2016, 07:51 AM   #18447
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: South East US
Posts: 713
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by micholix View Post
Hi Alan,

By looking at your set up sheet, i saw you are using the long 65 mm drive shafts at the outer hole on the axles, do they not bind on the diff out drives?
With the v3 kit there are cominng two length of drive shafts, 62.5 and 65 mm.
On TD web side, they mention, to use the longer 65 mm drive shafts at the most inner hole, the 62.5 mm on the middle and the optional 57.5 mm on the outer hole on the axle...
You should have a look at that too, not this is a case your car is doing crasy things?
Micholix: You may have found something there bud! As I was redoing the rear end I too noticed that I'm using the supplied V2 axle stubs with the 65mm cvds. As you know, the manual supplied with the V3 is the V2 manual. The changes are supplied in separate little bags. Tonight I found an unopened bag in my parts bin. It had the new multi axle kit in it along with instructions. How I missed that I'll never know. No ones perfect; doesn't matter how many kits you've built. ��

So I put it back together using the 65mm axles and the correct axle stubs; using the inner holes. The supplemental instructions say this will increase on power steering mid corner, exactly where this car needed it. That in itself might be what was so wrong. I've never dealt with multi axles before do I don't know how much of an effect they have.

I also used the ball diff instructions found on the website along with the book. This diff is adjusted differently than the AE diffs. In my ignorance I had adjusted it like an AE diff, tighten down then back off 1/8 turn. Using the TD method of using two hex drivers to hold it and then tightening it until I can't turn the gear, I realized I probably had the diff set WAY to tight. And here's where I'm REALLY an idiot. I had forgotten that the diff is adjusted with a flat top screwdriver. Yesterday at the track, I had simply grabbed my trusty 2mm hex driver, inserted it info the hub and turned it incrementally 1/8". I WAS ADJUSTING NOTHING BUT DIRT. I.am.a.retard........shhhhh. don't tell anyone I've been racing buggies since the 80's......

Anyway, I had to take a break last night. I'll pick up on it again tonight. I have a feeling when I put this on the track Next Week I'm going to finally see all that 210 awesomeness you guys keep talking about.

Last edited by Alan_r; 10-23-2016 at 11:10 AM.
Alan_r is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2016, 09:04 AM   #18448
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Austria
Posts: 591
Default

Hi Alan,

Things like that happen everytime, no matter, if you are new to the hobby, or doing it a long time!

Let us know, how your 210 works after that.
__________________
Greetings from Austria

Cat K2 / DEX410V3 / DEX410V5 / DEX210 / DEX210F / Cougar SVR /
YZ-10 '94/'95 WCS/
Spectrum DX3R
micholix is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2016, 06:43 PM   #18449
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: South East US
Posts: 713
Default

I'm in the process of re-doing my shocks to go along with Daughertys setup and I noticed something kind of strange. He's running 2/1.6 pistons in the front with 35w oil. Sounds pretty normal. Then he's running 3/1.6 pistons in the back with 40w. That strikes me as kind of strange. I'm considering giving his setup a complete go minus the 4 gear transmission but I want to understand why it's being done that way. The only thing I can come up with is he wanted faster rebound hence the 3/1.6 but then he wanted to slow the compression back down so he went with 40w. Make any sense? I drilled out 3 sets of blanks (2/1.6- 2/1.7- 3/1.6) so I can experiment at the track. I'm just curious to see how other people interpreted what he did.
Alan_r is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2016, 07:55 PM   #18450
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: South East US
Posts: 713
Default

Alright...felt like I just built the car again..lol. Gotta set the camber and toe and I think I'm ready to try this thing again. The setup is so different than before that I'm kind of excited to see how she runs. It's setup to Doughtys EFRA International Race to the T except for the 3 gear transmission. I'll see how it does and adjust from there. If this is at least in the ballpark I'm a lot closer to having my base setup for this car that I use when going to a new track.

After building the shocks again I've got to say, I've always been impressed with how smooth Durango shocks are. The only thing else I've got that is close to these are my X ring equipped Kashima shocks on the AE's. They are close but I don't think they are any better. These things are like riding on air.
Attached Thumbnails
Durango DEX210 Thread-imag0111.jpg  
Alan_r is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
St Ives RC Club B4Bandit Australian Racing 16572 10-14-2017 01:35 AM
EPMTs check in here. (a subsidiary of TNT) overtki11 Singapore R/C Racers 55470 05-07-2017 11:57 PM
Team Durango DEX410 ASH93A Australian Racing 925 04-08-2013 09:51 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 02:27 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net