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Old 07-24-2016, 11:54 PM   #18001
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cain View Post
you can confirm this by going to team durangos site and pull up the parts in question. They have a pretty cool setup that shows the part and what vehicles its compatible with.
Tried that, but the user need to have the part number before hand which I don't. While getting part code from Internet (eBay, A-Main, etc), I couldn't come across code for the complete shock set. I only get code for shock body, code for shock cap, code for shock shaft, etc…
I do find code for complete shock set for both F & R of DEX410.


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DEX210V3 rear shocks. TD230005
Hahaa~ thanks!
That should work!!!!
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Old 07-25-2016, 06:26 AM   #18002
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Cain,
I don't know what the geometry is on the Intech rear shock tower, V1 or V2?? I'm trying to find out what the lengths of their shock shafts are??

The body on he other hand may fit your plan b nicely. I see you requested width dimensions on the Intech thread.

Let us know what you find out.
will do. be a nice cheap body option.

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Also,
Anyone??
I was at the track today and my son drives the Dex, finally getting good forward and side bite, descent steering, but car seems twitchy on landings, if he lands a little off kilter, the car gets really squirrelly. Would turn real quick one way or the other??? Mess him up in the rhythm section ... Almost like I wanted to dial down a little of the sidebite so it would slide a tiny bit??
Suggestions??

Thanks in advance.
In general when he comes down off of these jumps, is his chassis slapping? how fast is it rebounding?

Can you post his setup and track and your impression of the conditions?
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Old 07-25-2016, 09:50 PM   #18003
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We are on indoor dirt/clay. I would say mid to high grip. Just saw 3 guys running the new B6 during practice (not the b6d). Surface little bumpy. Not rough I would say but not smooth. Good size jumps, good lap times around 18-19 seconds. Check out track on you tube: NorCal Hobbies.

I am running Dex210v2 with rear V1 STRC Shock tower, rear White Kyosho Spring, 2x1.7, AE 32.5 wt, no antisquat, Rear front and back aluminum exotek HRC hangers. Outside hole on arm. 2nd hole in on tower. Shocks on rear of arms. 1mm under inner ball stud. inner hole on transmission and 2nd hole on hub.

Front 2x1.5, 30wt, Yokomo Pink Spring. (Tried TD dark green, but lost steering) Outside hole in arms, middle hold on tower. 2mm under inner ball stud, 25 degree castor. Inner hole on tower side and outer hole on hub.

Car has been modified with sideways shorty all the way back.
Doesn't seem to be slapping on landing. Running 23-24mm ride height.
MM3.

Thanks for any suggestions
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Old 07-26-2016, 07:07 AM   #18004
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sounds familiar to what I saw on my dex8 where I didn't have quick enough rebound on the rear relative to the pack being seen.

what is the equivalent durango spring to the kyosho spring you are using?

how did the B6Ds look in comparison?
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Old 07-26-2016, 07:45 AM   #18005
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The Kyosho whites say 2.44 but are measured at 2.1. They are inbetween the TD light red 2.05 and TD black 2.18.
I don't have scales but I am also thinking that I need to move the battery a little forward. He was fighting a little nose high at times and we had plenty of rear traction. The B6 looked a lot smoother on landings and flatter in the air.
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Old 07-26-2016, 07:58 AM   #18006
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could you add weight to the front? Maybe either a alloy bulkhead or that weighted piece that goes under the servo?

Be curious if a piston change could help too.
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Old 07-26-2016, 12:18 PM   #18007
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I do have he 20g exotek weight. Could put that back in and see if it settles the car a bit. With added weight maybe the dark green would be the ticket.
New Pistons? What were you thinking? I'm all about experimenting?? You think I have too much pack or not enough?? Should of asked what Pistons the b6 guys were running.

Fred get on that lay down transmission for the exotek Chasis. Then I could buy both. Design it to hook up to the stock waterfall brace. Then exotek or you could just shorten the side braces to fit. Design the transmission case w/o the tabs for the camber links. We can just use exotek one as well.
Thanks

Last edited by WallyRC; 07-26-2016 at 12:30 PM.
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Old 07-26-2016, 02:47 PM   #18008
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I don't have the Exotek chassis and they are closed through the first week in August. I'm gone the second week in August. My personal car already has the Exotek MM bulkhead so I don't have camber link tabs on my case anymore anyways. Realistically even if I was planning to do the laydown gearbox, with timing and it takes to print, the soonest I could possibly have one is at least 2 months from now and I haven't committed to doing it yet.
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Old 07-26-2016, 03:24 PM   #18009
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most of the B6 guy's are using 1.6 front, 1.7 rear pistons.
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Old 07-26-2016, 03:44 PM   #18010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgtlt View Post
most of the B6 guy's are using 1.6 front, 1.7 rear pistons.
Thanks, good to know.
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Old 07-26-2016, 04:55 PM   #18011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WallyRC View Post
I do have he 20g exotek weight. Could put that back in and see if it settles the car a bit. With added weight maybe the dark green would be the ticket.
New Pistons? What were you thinking? I'm all about experimenting?? You think I have too much pack or not enough?? Should of asked what Pistons the b6 guys were running.

Fred get on that lay down transmission for the exotek Chasis. Then I could buy both. Design it to hook up to the stock waterfall brace. Then exotek or you could just shorten the side braces to fit. Design the transmission case w/o the tabs for the camber links. We can just use exotek one as well.
Thanks
this the conditions in question:

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


Based on what I am seeing, what I am thinking relative to the pistions is that maybe you don't have enough pack coming off of the jumps and when you come down that is causing it to get unsettled.

Is he one of the cars in the vids? If so which?
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Old 07-26-2016, 05:29 PM   #18012
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That is the correct track. He isn't racing yet. Getting his nerve up but we practice a lot. He was getting around the track pretty good. Keeping up with some of the fast guys. But his car was just a little more squirrelly.

More pack means more holes and smaller. Maybe 3x1.4?? 4x1.3??? Something like that.
What you think?
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Old 07-26-2016, 05:49 PM   #18013
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trying to recall the piston pack chart, Looking at setups, 3 x 1.6mm seems common. curious how they are pack wise in comparison to 1.7s.

I use the 3 x 1.6mm in the rear and like it so far.

Some thoughts from Dino_D on Oople:

Quote:
Made a little chart to show hole area and hole sizes.

mm..........2.......3......4.......5.......6..
1.0......1.571 2.356 3.142 3.927 4.712
1.1......1.901 2.851 3.801 4.752 5.702
1.2......2.262 3.393 4.524 5.655 6.786
1.3......2.655 3.982 5.309 6.637 7.964
1.4......3.079 4.618 6.158 7.697 9.236
1.5......3.534 5.301 7.069 8.836
1.6......4.021 6.032 8.042
1.7......4.540 6.809
1.8......5.089 7.634
1.9......5.671 8.506

As you can see 2x1.7 will have similar STATIC pack to 3x1.4 or 4x1.2 or 6x1.0.
When you move the shock shaft slowly, the differences between them is not that noticeable. However, the differences between fewer larger holes and more smaller holes is when the shock starts to pack. Less holes pack late in the stroke. More holes pack earlier due to more turbulent flow from more holes. Normally I alter pistons size and holes to adjust for track conditions. Bigger holes also favor bumpy tracks, but will bottom out more on larger jumps, smaller holes are preferred on smoother tracks with larger jumps.

I don;t have a chart referencing piston sizes (area of the holes) and oil weight combinations as there are too many different brands of oils.

Remember, oil weight is used to control the weight transfer front to back and side to side.
You can match heavier oil, and more holes or larger oils and light oil with smaller and less holes to achieve the same damping ratio, but heavier oil and larger hole area pack later in the stroke. Lighter oils and smaller hole area pack earlier in the stroke. It depends on what you want to achieve with the car.

Normally I tend to figure out what oil I want to use (heavier for fast flowing, high grip, and lighter for smaller technical tracks) and match the piston sizes and holes accordingly. Bigger holes for low grip and bumpy tracks, smaller holes for higher grip surfaces. Smaller holes for larger jumps. Just need to find the perfect balance and it takes time to test and find the right combination.

This is my opinions and testing. Feel free to experiment and try.
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Last edited by Cain; 07-26-2016 at 06:08 PM.
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Old 07-27-2016, 06:15 PM   #18014
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Anybody else. By the looks of that track what Pistons do you think should be used.
Thanks
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Old 07-27-2016, 10:32 PM   #18015
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I'm thinking of getting the VRP 3x1.4 and use them front and back. Maybe drill one set out to be 3x1.5 and use that in the rear.
I don't understand how JP and Amezcua used 2x1.6 in the back and 3x1.4 in the front, seems very counter intuitive to me.
Can someone explain to me how that would work?
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