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Old 07-11-2016, 11:13 AM   #17956
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The irony is that for a while now I've been steering (no pun intended) people away from this car due to its flaws. If I'd have known about the steering rack earlier, it may have been enough to change my mind. As long as you can find that part, picking one of these cars up on the used market is a bargain. I still prefer my longer shocks with the bladder setup.

If Durango comes out with another 210 version, or just a replacement at some point, they need to go to the RDRP steering geometry. That's a must. Change the outer steering hubs to adjust Ackerman there, not on the rack. It is my belief that they use V1 length shocks all around with towers that take them into account. That means essentially the stock V1 rear tower but a slightly taller front tower. I'd really like to see the optional hub height locations at the hinge pins like AE is doing and TLR offers with the lay down gearbox for the 22 3.0. My old JRX cars had this ability and my Invencer dirt oval car offers this as well. It is 25 year old tech that is coming back around. Obviously a chassis with a sideways shorty or side by side saddle would be nice too. Please, for the love of God go back to straight rear arms! I don't buy the AE justification for handling differences. I just like seeing the camber link angle in relation to the arm level as referenced from hinge pin to pin. The shock wish and steering rack wish would be perfect V2 upgrades for the 210F.
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Old 07-11-2016, 12:46 PM   #17957
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darn just realized I got my tranny case setup on the wrong side for MM3. Oh well, I don't mind wrenching that much I guess and supposedly with the exotek rear bulkhead I should be able to get the tranny out easier.

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Old 07-11-2016, 05:28 PM   #17958
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Much easier!!
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Old 07-11-2016, 06:57 PM   #17959
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the steering link piece came in along with a variety of other things I order, and of course I head out to town tomorrow so have to pack!
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Old 07-12-2016, 02:12 AM   #17960
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What way do u guys recommend to stop the springs from rubbing on the turnbuckle, (rear).

I have v2 rear arms, exotek rear hubs, and v1 carbon shock tower
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Old 07-12-2016, 07:13 AM   #17961
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On the rear I am assuming, I used shims to move the upper shock mount location back, and since I am using the quick mounts, I used shims between the tower and the tranny case to get some space too. I would say go with the shock mount location first as I am curious to see how the tower holds up to this kind of spacing.
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Old 07-12-2016, 09:12 AM   #17962
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They are.
Thanks ekt, for answering!

Sorry, I had not had the time yesterday to try and give the answer....
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Old 07-12-2016, 09:21 AM   #17963
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I'm not going to bother with it. My personal preference it to not adjust rear toe at the arms but rather always do it at the hubs. I've got 1.5 rear toe right now and it's fine.
Ok, i do understand.
I more ment, not to adjust rear toe or squat, just to get the right starting adjustment you want.

So do i understand that right, your arms are set at standard 3 deg and you adjust the hubs back to get 1.5 deg at the end?
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Old 07-12-2016, 09:29 AM   #17964
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fredswain View Post
The irony is that for a while now I've been steering (no pun intended) people away from this car due to its flaws. If I'd have known about the steering rack earlier, it may have been enough to change my mind. As long as you can find that part, picking one of these cars up on the used market is a bargain. I still prefer my longer shocks with the bladder setup.

If Durango comes out with another 210 version, or just a replacement at some point, they need to go to the RDRP steering geometry. That's a must. Change the outer steering hubs to adjust Ackerman there, not on the rack. It is my belief that they use V1 length shocks all around with towers that take them into account. That means essentially the stock V1 rear tower but a slightly taller front tower. I'd really like to see the optional hub height locations at the hinge pins like AE is doing and TLR offers with the lay down gearbox for the 22 3.0. My old JRX cars had this ability and my Invencer dirt oval car offers this as well. It is 25 year old tech that is coming back around. Obviously a chassis with a sideways shorty or side by side saddle would be nice too. Please, for the love of God go back to straight rear arms! I don't buy the AE justification for handling differences. I just like seeing the camber link angle in relation to the arm level as referenced from hinge pin to pin. The shock wish and steering rack wish would be perfect V2 upgrades for the 210F.
Yes it would be nice to refine the car some and actually fix the problems once and for all. I do like my car and getting the new Exoteck chassis and RDRP steering rack is still cheaper than me buying a brand new car which I still might end up doing but just can't make up my mind yet what I want to do. I have another car on are order sheet at the hobby shop but I send that order until I know what I'm doing car wise. If I keep the Dingo then I will take the other car off the order.
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Old 07-12-2016, 09:30 AM   #17965
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cain View Post
darn just realized I got my tranny case setup on the wrong side for MM3. Oh well, I don't mind wrenching that much I guess and supposedly with the exotek rear bulkhead I should be able to get the tranny out easier.

Sure does look nice.
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Old 07-12-2016, 11:10 AM   #17966
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Originally Posted by micholix View Post
Ok, i do understand.
I more ment, not to adjust rear toe or squat, just to get the right starting adjustment you want.

So do i understand that right, your arms are set at standard 3 deg and you adjust the hubs back to get 1.5 deg at the end?
That is how I have it setup right now. My perfect car would not give you the ability to adjust rear toe at the arms. It would only be at the hubs.
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Old 07-12-2016, 12:09 PM   #17967
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Originally Posted by offroader47 View Post
What way do u guys recommend to stop the springs from rubbing on the turnbuckle, (rear).

I have v2 rear arms, exotek rear hubs, and v1 carbon shock tower
I do similar as Cain. I use 2 mm shims between tower and transmission. I have exotek gold shock mounts and put their 1 mm shim behind mount to shim another 1 mm.

Bonus. I just drilled my STRC V1 tower to fit a Yokomo wing mount. Looks and fits nice. Wing is much higher.. Will post pics later.
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Old 07-12-2016, 12:27 PM   #17968
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I'm thinking about trying these at the rear end.

http://www.team-durango.com/part-inf...artNo=TD340022
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Old 07-12-2016, 03:30 PM   #17969
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Is the dex210 flight topshaft by exotek worth the money or it doesn't make that much difference compared to the stock one? I run 17.5t stock
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Old 07-13-2016, 01:16 AM   #17970
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cain View Post
however you don't want those V3 plastic hexes. Go with some exoteks.
done.
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