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Old 03-23-2016, 09:42 AM   #17536
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I like the shocks moved to the back of the car. Made it easier to get the gear cover off to change gearing and the spur gear plus I can use more of the holes on the shock tower depending on the track condition and how I want my car to react.

Might do the batter conversion but since I don't race indoors again til October I will wait to end of September to see if Durango just makes new molded side pieces that fit the shorty packs and if not I will just do like everyone else and make my own. Pretty easy mod to do.
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Old 03-23-2016, 12:18 PM   #17537
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I did shocks on rear of tower first. Battery still inline. Better rear traction. (Indoor clay med-high)
Then did transverse battery. Even better rear traction.
I agree with what Fred is saying, why go mid motor and then put all the weight back. But I believe the Dex is set up better for high traction in online with shocks in front. For more US style tracks you need more weight back. Shocks rearward and transverse shorty. I haven't tried shocks in front now that I have moved shorty to transverse position. I do like shocks I rear for more available positions for balancing springs and out of way of gear cover. But when hit from behind. Shocks get beat up. Don't let them catch you!!
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Old 03-23-2016, 03:12 PM   #17538
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Originally Posted by MikeR View Post
When it was shown to me I was skeptical at first too but noted impressive test results.
What you noticed was your wheel rate changing. It's the same as changing your springs since the leverage on the springs changes with location changes. Of course you noticed it.
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Old 03-23-2016, 03:13 PM   #17539
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I did shocks on rear of tower first. Battery still inline. Better rear traction. (Indoor clay med-high)
Then did transverse battery. Even better rear traction.
I agree with what Fred is saying, why go mid motor and then put all the weight back. But I believe the Dex is set up better for high traction in online with shocks in front. For more US style tracks you need more weight back. Shocks rearward and transverse shorty. I haven't tried shocks in front now that I have moved shorty to transverse position. I do like shocks I rear for more available positions for balancing springs and out of way of gear cover. But when hit from behind. Shocks get beat up. Don't let them catch you!!
My point is that front vs rear should really be used for fine tuning. It shouldn't be considered a geometry or leverage change since it's not.
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Old 03-28-2016, 04:26 AM   #17540
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Default Rear Arm Slop?

Finishing up getting the items needed to get this 210 on the track and I noticed that the arms on the rear of this buggy have a bit of slop at the inner hinge pin. What, if anything can be done to eliminate this? Is it a result of the inner plastic block getting worn out? Excited to finally get this out on the track this week!
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Old 03-28-2016, 01:26 PM   #17541
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Finishing up getting the items needed to get this 210 on the track and I noticed that the arms on the rear of this buggy have a bit of slop at the inner hinge pin. What, if anything can be done to eliminate this? Is it a result of the inner plastic block getting worn out? Excited to finally get this out on the track this week!
The inner hinge pins with the inserts can get a little loose. I get more play front to back. I use aluminum exotek hangers though. What's helped is I use about a 1mm washer/spacer at the rear of the hanger between the arm and hanger to take up slop. The plastic will wear and many people have busted the rear front plastic hanger. Weak spot. If you can get the aluminum one.
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Old 03-28-2016, 04:26 PM   #17542
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I run the v2 on a medium bite dirt track. I switched over to mid motor with a shorty pack and I like this better then the rear motor set up. I have the ESC mounted in front of the motor and then the shorty pack in line. I have seen a few pictures of the transverse battery set up. Has anyone tried the mid motor set up and the transverse battery set up for a medium bite dirt track? I sorry if I missed the response in the earlier pages.
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Old 03-28-2016, 05:44 PM   #17543
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Thx Wally.

What about the chassis, thinking about going with the Exotek Carbon chassis to save some weight. Or is it worth upgrading to the longer +8mm chassis?
Possibly the DIMEC Carbon Composite? They look nice but scared they may be too heavy for stock! Just wanna put a little into the car but not break the bank and improve it hopefully.

Has anyone tried the DIMEC Chassis? They look pretty nice and everything is all one piece but I am scared that they will be too heavy for stock!

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Old 03-29-2016, 10:48 AM   #17544
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I run the v2 on a medium bite dirt track. I switched over to mid motor with a shorty pack and I like this better then the rear motor set up. I have the ESC mounted in front of the motor and then the shorty pack in line. I have seen a few pictures of the transverse battery set up. Has anyone tried the mid motor set up and the transverse battery set up for a medium bite dirt track? I sorry if I missed the response in the earlier pages.
I did the switch to transverse shorty in my V2 and it handled much better. Took the front weight out of the slot. Stiffened up rear spring. Much more rear traction than inline. Also moved my rear shocks to the back of the A arms while in inline. Hat helped but the battery helped even more. Might move the shocks back now that I have moved the battery. Just started the mod on my DEST as well. Going to see how that works. Trying it out this weekend. Will report back later.
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Old 03-29-2016, 11:17 AM   #17545
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Thx Wally.

What about the chassis, thinking about going with the Exotek Carbon chassis to save some weight. Or is it worth upgrading to the longer +8mm chassis?
Possibly the DIMEC Carbon Composite? They look nice but scared they may be too heavy for stock! Just wanna put a little into the car but not break the bank and improve it hopefully.

Has anyone tried the DIMEC Chassis? They look pretty nice and everything is all one piece but I am scared that they will be too heavy for stock!
I can't comment on the exotek Chasis. I think it depends on the track you are running on. I believe you should have a stiff Chassis and tune your suspension. I have the Dimec20 chassis on both my DESC ANS DEST. I don't know the weight difference between dimec and stock aluminum. Hopefully someone can comment on that. If you thinking of a new Chasis I would check out "plan B" on Facebook. Then you can run a shorty anyway you prefer. You can ask him the weight differences from stock. Cain on this forum has one as well that he fitted with plan b. He may be able to comment on weight since you are running stock. If you go with the Dimec chassis make sure you get the B type. There are some of the older originals that would break easily. The b type have a squared tail in the rear, should say type b on packaging. The old type A have a "fish tail" like cutout at the end of the rear of he chassis. THe dimec20 is stiffer than the Dimec.
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Old 03-29-2016, 12:54 PM   #17546
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The stock aluminum chassis is the heaviest of all the options.
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Old 03-29-2016, 01:18 PM   #17547
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Thanks Fred,
That's what I thought I read somewhere.

So Turtle Speed, your best bet may be the DIMEC20 type B chassis for stock. I would think the Plan B Chasis being aluminum may be heavy. The Dimec20 is a +8 chassis and the plan B is a +10. The Chasis on the V2 is +8. The V1 was shorter.
Good luck
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Old 03-29-2016, 02:07 PM   #17548
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I'll drop the vehicle on the scales too tonight when I do the dex210F. I am pretty much running the dex210F right now and will try it outdoors to see how it goes but holding onto the Plan B for now.
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Old 03-31-2016, 07:40 PM   #17549
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Fred,
Could you explain the difference in performance one might see in an inline vs. trailing axels??
Thanks.
I noticed the Intech ER12m 2.0 has inline hubs.
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Old 04-01-2016, 09:22 AM   #17550
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It's funny how things go back and forth. Cars have been going from trailing to inline to trailing for decades now. Each time one is touted an improvement over the other. Some may say that inline is more aggressive or that trailing is more stable. It's hard to describe it as our servos are so powerful that you could probably do something like leading steering and it would remain stable but built in geometric stability is the goal. Theoretically the more trail you have, the more stability you have. Look at your car from the side. Draw an imaginary line through the center of the outer hinge pin perpendicular to it and follow it until it touches the ground. How far rearward from this point to where the tire touches the surface is your trail.

If you have a car with no front kick angle and inline steering, it would have no trail. As you add front kick angle, you naturally get some trail from it alone. Adding trailing steering hubs only increases it more. Look at the wheels on a shopping cart. They trail and that cart has a tendency to go straight. An unfortunate side effect of trail is that it has a natural resonance. Ever seen a shopping cart wheel that keeps fluttering back and forth when a wheels isn't quite all the way on the ground? That's it. Fortunately we don't have that problem.

One thing you'll notice on our cars is that due to the front kick, when we steer left and right, the car also leans as the wheels turn. Unfortunately the car leans to the outside of the corner rather than the inside. The front of the car also physically moves left to right as the wheels are turned. Just turn the car on and while it's sitting still, turn the wheels and watch what happens to the car. Then play with different caster and trailing settings and look at what they do. This can at least show you what's going on. Describing how it feels is a bit tough. I currently have 4mm trail but typically prefer inline. For me this really comes down to fine tuning and feel rather than an actual performance change.
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