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Old 02-17-2016, 09:54 AM   #17401
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With the AE cars we have been running 1 set of planetary gears in the differential on clay and it is virtually indistinguishable from a ball diff.
cool thanks for the info. What kind of oil weights did you go with for that ball diff feel? Also, would you recommend doing this with plastic gears or only steel when you run 1 set versus the full 2?
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Old 02-17-2016, 10:50 AM   #17402
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I switched to an Associated SC10 gear diff since I didn't want to deal with the maintenance of the ball diff. The gear diff came already assembled and sealed with my used kit.

I actually had the ball diff start to slip on me which is why I tried to tighten it down, then rebuilt it but is still barked on me even though it was tightened all the way down.
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Old 02-17-2016, 12:13 PM   #17403
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cool thanks for the info. What kind of oil weights did you go with for that ball diff feel? Also, would you recommend doing this with plastic gears or only steel when you run 1 set versus the full 2?
5k-7k. I've only ever had metal gears. The gear diff for the DEX210V3 has metal gears as well.
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Old 02-18-2016, 12:07 AM   #17404
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Fred,
I know your a fan of TLR ball cups, have you looked at item # TLR231029 at Amain. If you used those on the standard inner steering link, it would drop it down a few mm.

I just built the turnbuckles up. They are 3.5mm X 50 mm TLR Ones. Have the RDRP steering rack which lowers it more. I bought the offset to keep them away from the shocks since those ball studs are horizontal. Since the original rack is vertical, you can lower the inner one. Therefore less shims.

I will post pics when I can.
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Old 02-18-2016, 10:00 AM   #17405
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Fred,
I know your a fan of TLR ball cups, have you looked at item # TLR231029 at Amain. If you used those on the standard inner steering link, it would drop it down a few mm.

I just built the turnbuckles up. They are 3.5mm X 50 mm TLR Ones. Have the RDRP steering rack which lowers it more. I bought the offset to keep them away from the shocks since those ball studs are horizontal. Since the original rack is vertical, you can lower the inner one. Therefore less shims.

I will post pics when I can.
Those don't actually change any geometry. The ball isn't lower. The link is merely angled going into the cup. The actual location of the ball is what matters.
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Old 02-18-2016, 12:20 PM   #17406
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Those don't actually change any geometry. The ball isn't lower. The link is merely angled going into the cup. The actual location of the ball is what matters.
You are 100% right. I wrote this really late and was thinking if the turnbuckle was lower it would help but the pivot point hasn't changed. My bad. In my case with the horizontal ball stud it should work great to give more clearance from the shock at full turn.

I will post those pics when I can.
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Old 02-20-2016, 02:30 AM   #17407
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Smile My front end mod, the 2nd!

Hello everyone,

You may have seen my steering mod, a fiew pages back?
Now i would like to show you some more, i'll try at the front end of my 210!

I've milled my own front bulk head, actually i've modified a kit plastic one, to get an 20* kick-up angle.

I still have to wait for some parts to arrive and to draw up some parts for the machinist, so it will take some time to finish my projekt, but i want to show/share the steps with you.

In the following pictures you can see, what it looks like.
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Last edited by micholix; 02-20-2016 at 03:38 AM.
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Old 02-20-2016, 02:32 AM   #17408
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Sorry, i only can upload one pic per post, with my ipad....
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Old 02-20-2016, 02:35 AM   #17409
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...and one more!
As you can see, i still have to drill new holes for the thread, for the front brace, but as i'm laying down my servo to the chassis, it will be no problem, so i think!?
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Old 02-20-2016, 06:48 AM   #17410
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Very interesting. What benefit are you looking to derive from this mod?
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Old 02-20-2016, 08:48 AM   #17411
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Micholix,
I see your modified the plastic front bulkhead to decrease to front kickup. Is it possible to to maybe heat the aluminum a little and bend it to decrease the kick up as well?

Everybody out there would it weaken it?
Answer to other persons question. With the high grip tracks of today, the 25 and 30 degree kick-up is too much, 20 degrees is probably more ideal.

Micholix, I know the HPI blitz SC had some front aluminum bulkheads that decrease the kickup at the inner hinge pin. We may be able to modify those to work as well, then the brace would still line up? Or talk to exotek. Who make an aluminum bulkhead to get them to reduce the kickup in the bulkhead at the inner hinge pin. Just some thoughts.

Fred, that would decrease the need for the outer shimming with same castor gains?!

Last edited by WallyRC; 02-20-2016 at 08:56 AM. Reason: Wrong info
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Old 02-20-2016, 04:47 PM   #17412
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new addition to the fleet:

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Old 02-20-2016, 06:15 PM   #17413
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Less front kick will give more on power steering. Caster should still be used to fine tune things.
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Old 02-21-2016, 12:25 AM   #17414
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Micholix,
I see your modified the plastic front bulkhead to decrease to front kickup. Is it possible to to maybe heat the aluminum a little and bend it to decrease the kick up as well?

Everybody out there would it weaken it?
Answer to other persons question. With the high grip tracks of today, the 25 and 30 degree kick-up is too much, 20 degrees is probably more ideal.

Micholix, I know the HPI blitz SC had some front aluminum bulkheads that decrease the kickup at the inner hinge pin. We may be able to modify those to work as well, then the brace would still line up? Or talk to exotek. Who make an aluminum bulkhead to get them to reduce the kickup in the bulkhead at the inner hinge pin. Just some thoughts.

Fred, that would decrease the need for the outer shimming with same castor gains?!
Hi Wally,

It is may possible, to bend the kit chassis back, but the hard coating will crack at this area and i dont know, if you do not weaken the aluminum by doing that, as the high grade aloy doesnt like bending that much and you have to be carefull too, to get the angle right!?
I dont would like to destroy my original chassis, as i want to do my own cf chassis, with an built in 20 deg kik-up.
I mad this mod, to try it out first and it was an easy modification, it took me about 15 min to do and maybe another for drilling the new top brace threads.

Sorry, i dont know the hpi blitz bulk head, could you please post a pic?

Interresting thing would be, to have an front bulk head with some inserts to change kik-up by the inner hing pin, i think i've seen somthing like that for the b5, but not sure!?
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Old 02-21-2016, 03:05 AM   #17415
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Very interesting. What benefit are you looking to derive from this mod?
Hi emerilnut,

As tracks get more and more high grip and less bumpy newer days, 25 or more deg. is not needed, and as fred sayed allready, it'll give more on power steering, so i think.

Off-topic:
Actually, i'm a fan of old shool dirt tracks, but its hard to find some.
Here in austria, tracks are rare and at the track i was running at, they put concret all over it, for less maintenance!?
So with my poor driving skills(because of less practicing), if you crash harder, you can be sure somthing brakes and material is much more under stress all the time...
I have to find another track now, but there are not to many here, and if, they are most for 1/8 scale nitro buggys, with huge jumps.
It is popular here, to pay a one year membership, or you can get a one day guest card, as tracks are mostly not owend by an rc store, its like a organization, or club!
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