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Old 11-10-2011, 07:52 AM   #1726
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Originally Posted by Shadows View Post
he needs to re-test.

The Schuey spurs fit both the 410 and the 210. Its the same inner diameter of 8mm, and uses associated style slipper pads:
I beleive you, I was just repeating what we were told was tested earlier in the thread. See below.
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Guys I'm a Schumacher Driver, got this for my son to mess with. I'll go pull open the bag with the layshaft and check my Schuie spurs on it, stand by for 10 minutes!
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Sorry to report guys that the I.D. of the Schumacher Spurs is waaaayyyy too big.
It appears glowster was only looking at the diameter of the shaft that goes through the gearbox, not the diameter of the piece that the spur gear actually sits on.
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Old 11-10-2011, 07:55 AM   #1727
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Guys two quick questions. What ride height are you guys running, and what gearing for a 10.5 motor. I ran a boosted 13.5 with a 28/75 and felt it needed more power down low. I think I am going to change motors. Thanks...
Iv been running 23.5mm F and B.
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Old 11-10-2011, 08:48 AM   #1728
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Originally Posted by Bman's 3XNT View Post
Guys two quick questions. What ride height are you guys running, and what gearing for a 10.5 motor. I ran a boosted 13.5 with a 28/75 and felt it needed more power down low. I think I am going to change motors. Thanks...
I'm currently at 24mm ride height in back and around 23.5 in front
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Old 11-10-2011, 09:03 AM   #1729
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Does the 210 come with simple tools like allenwrenches and the cross nutdriver?
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Old 11-10-2011, 09:05 AM   #1730
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Does the 210 come with simple tools like allenwrenches and the cross nutdriver?
seesh.. im trying to remember if it comes with any tools at all... my failing old man's memory is telling me no. (but it does come with a turnbuckle wrench)
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Old 11-10-2011, 09:08 AM   #1731
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seesh.. im trying to remember if it comes with any tools at all... my failing old man's memory is telling me no. (but it does come with a turnbuckle wrench)
My kit will be here tomorrow but I have not ordered my tools yet.
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Old 11-10-2011, 09:09 AM   #1732
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this guy is selling two NIP 210s:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...a-shipped.html
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Old 11-10-2011, 09:11 AM   #1733
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My kit will be here tomorrow but I have not ordered my tools yet.
don't waste your money on anything other than MIP Thorp wrenches. Best money you will spend in this hobby. You will need more than just this, but this one is a must:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ex-Driver-20mm
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Old 11-10-2011, 10:56 AM   #1734
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
don't waste your money on anything other than MIP Thorp wrenches. Best money you will spend in this hobby. You will need more than just this, but this one is a must:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ex-Driver-20mm
That is all I use, but everything is for the B4 except the 2.5 and 1.3 mm. I was picking up a Schumacher 5.5mm and 7mm nut drivers. I have a THorp wrench I bought back in 89' that I still use and never rounded out.
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Old 11-10-2011, 11:21 AM   #1735
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for the reason you mention, it DOES matter if one of the thrust washers is larger!! The larger of the 2 needs to be seated against the snap ring.Some of the issues people are having could be the result of using the smaller of the 2 washers against the snap ring. Combine that with having the snap ring in "upside down' so to speak so the rounded edge is the one carying the load and i can surely see where this could cause the issues some are having with the snap ring coming unseated from the groove it rests in.
Would you care to explain why you think this? I'm not saying it isn't so, but the orientation of the washers should not matter provided that the races are pretty facing the caged thrust. There is a set dimension of the bore that the thrust assembly goes into, defined by the outdrive and the circlip. There is also a set dimension of the thrust assembly- whether you have the larger washer in the hole first or last does not change the overall dimension, nor does it affect the depth at which the diff bolt rests. Maybe I'm missing something. I totally agree that the orientation of the circlip is crucial, but the way I see it the washers should not affect anything. Maybe I'm missing something..
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Old 11-10-2011, 11:34 AM   #1736
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You're not missing anything. If the bore is "X" deep the thickness of the overall thrust assembly will not change if the washers are on either side. The "X" will still measure the same length.
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Old 11-10-2011, 11:40 AM   #1737
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Yeah, my thought was the depth of the thrust bearing of other brands causing issues with the diff assembly being over tightened. Which may cause the circlip to fail prematurely. I have a sneaking suspicion that some peoples hands are not calibrated properly.
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Old 11-10-2011, 11:50 AM   #1738
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Ok, I'm not going crazy here....

Any Durango guys going to Trackside this Saturday? We're gonna go and try to get a headstart tuning for the Spektrum race- I have the SC10 with a big "5" on that the roof and Cush will be running his Durango buggies.
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Old 11-10-2011, 11:51 AM   #1739
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Ok, I'm not going crazy here....

Any Durango guys going to Trackside this Saturday? We're gonna go and try to get a headstart tuning for the Spektrum race- I have the SC10 with a big "5" on that the roof and Cush will be running his Durango buggies.
I'm in, I will be the guy with the black rangos. Only guy with Durangos recently.
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Old 11-10-2011, 02:13 PM   #1740
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jmuck69 View Post
Does the 210 come with simple tools like allenwrenches and the cross nutdriver?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
seesh.. im trying to remember if it comes with any tools at all... my failing old man's memory is telling me no. (but it does come with a turnbuckle wrench)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
You're not missing anything. If the bore is "X" deep the thickness of the overall thrust assembly will not change if the washers are on either side. The "X" will still measure the same length.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonny5 View Post
Would you care to explain why you think this? I'm not saying it isn't so, but the orientation of the washers should not matter provided that the races are pretty facing the caged thrust. There is a set dimension of the bore that the thrust assembly goes into, defined by the outdrive and the circlip. There is also a set dimension of the thrust assembly- whether you have the larger washer in the hole first or last does not change the overall dimension, nor does it affect the depth at which the diff bolt rests. Maybe I'm missing something. I totally agree that the orientation of the circlip is crucial, but the way I see it the washers should not affect anything. Maybe I'm missing something..
Quote:
Originally Posted by TAMAK View Post
Yeah, my thought was the depth of the thrust bearing of other brands causing issues with the diff assembly being over tightened. Which may cause the circlip to fail prematurely. I have a sneaking suspicion that some peoples hands are not calibrated properly.

I get what he meant by this..... the washers were a different DIAMETER, not thickness. If you put the bigger of the two washers in first, then the smaller diameter washer would push against the snap ring, but more towards the middle of the ring as opposed to out towards the outer edge where the ring enters the groove of the outdrive..the theory is that as pressure is applied to the thrust assembly, the smaller washer could make the snap ring flex enough that it could dislodge it from the groove. If the larger washer is pushing against the snap ring, then the pressure is applied closer to the "solid" part, where the ring rests in the groove of the outdrive. Little to no flex of the ring means, it shouldnt pop out of the groove.
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