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Old 02-10-2016, 10:48 AM   #17326
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fredswain View Post
He built it as a 3 gear but put the spur and motor plate on the wrong side.
Yeah that would cause the problem for sure.
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Old 02-10-2016, 07:11 PM   #17327
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I wouldn't say I put it on the wrong side. I actually did it on purpose. I was curious if anyone else had possibly done this or what was the good and bad to it was all. Just seeing if there is other things out there to make it better working with the confines of what I have. It honestly just didn't seem right to go three gear as if I was going to be racing on an oval in the offroad buggy. So I opted to go this route and so far it seems to be working. I have enough stuff where I could in all honesty work out and make another buggy setup the other way to compare lol. I appreciate all the input as well though.

I am curious on one other thing, would it be advantage to run a shorty pack in this buggy or is the regular length pack the way to go at this point?
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Old 02-10-2016, 09:11 PM   #17328
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The thing is that by putting the motor on the other side, when you reversed motor direction, you actually just made it behave exactly like it would have in the correct direction on the correct side. If you were running sensored you couldn't have wired it backwards.

If you are running it oval, is it the bomber class? is it dirt oval or paved? Typically people just run rear motor for that class on dirt. If you've got enough traction for mid motor, you've got enough traction for 3 gear. 4 gear shifts weight off of the front wheels under hard acceleration. On ovals you are on power most of the time and a considerable amount of time is spent turning. Removing weight from the front wheels exiting a corner isn't doing you any favors. A 3 gear is more favorable for this use.
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Old 02-10-2016, 09:46 PM   #17329
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Hey Fred, I actually run one in the bomber class at Go Fast Raceway in Attica, IN. It is on facebook for the track page. Nice smooth dirt oval indoors. We use a spec foam tire and also 17.5 motor rule in that class. Really fun class my biggest issue I have to get out of it at the moment is the major chassis roll to the right rear. It causes the left front to lift completely off the ground in about middle of the turn and coming off. Problem with that is , the speed is compromised a bit too much with this happening. Some small things to work on that and it should be screaming.

I also use a kit made by bbmods aka brad brucker, for a sprint car as well for the dex210. Run a 13.5 in that as well. I will get some pictures of my setups tomorrow and post all three of them so you can kinda see what I am doing with my layouts. At the moment running on a tight budget hence trying to stretch the capabilities of the buggy as much as possible before having to do the upgrade to a new vehicle. One of the positives that I liked about the durango in the beginning was the fact I can go from either mid motor or rear motor, 3 or 4 gear, and also obviously run the motor plate on either side.
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Old 02-10-2016, 10:28 PM   #17330
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I had the front lifting on carpet when was running two washers under the rear inner ball studs and none at the front. From reading the camber link thread I worked out that by trying to control the roll soley on the front was making it too stiff compared to the rear.
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Old 02-11-2016, 08:55 AM   #17331
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Just finished building mine last nite. All I got left is paint the body. Question is... does the rear arms break easily? I search for spares all around the web and they seem to be sold out or back order everywhere. I am racing this weekend and I have a lot of spares except rear arms. It will suck if the only part that breaks is the one that I don't have.
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Old 02-11-2016, 09:16 AM   #17332
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Just finished building mine last nite. All I got left is paint the body. Question is... does the rear arms break easily? I search for spares all around the web and they seem to be sold out or back order everywhere. I am racing this weekend and I have a lot of spares except rear arms. It will suck if the only part that breaks is the one that I don't have.
My son clipped a tree trunk at the local park, didn't break the rear wishbone but pulled the hinge pin out of the fr hanger.
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Old 02-11-2016, 10:09 AM   #17333
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I've only broken one rear arm and it was when I was messing around in the street in front of my house. I clipped a curb at full speed on an 8.5T motor and it cartwheeled on concrete down the street end over end. I was shocked that it was only an arm that was broken.
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Old 02-11-2016, 10:13 AM   #17334
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Originally Posted by klowne View Post
Hey Fred, I actually run one in the bomber class at Go Fast Raceway in Attica, IN. It is on facebook for the track page. Nice smooth dirt oval indoors. We use a spec foam tire and also 17.5 motor rule in that class. Really fun class my biggest issue I have to get out of it at the moment is the major chassis roll to the right rear. It causes the left front to lift completely off the ground in about middle of the turn and coming off. Problem with that is , the speed is compromised a bit too much with this happening. Some small things to work on that and it should be screaming.

I also use a kit made by bbmods aka brad brucker, for a sprint car as well for the dex210. Run a 13.5 in that as well. I will get some pictures of my setups tomorrow and post all three of them so you can kinda see what I am doing with my layouts. At the moment running on a tight budget hence trying to stretch the capabilities of the buggy as much as possible before having to do the upgrade to a new vehicle. One of the positives that I liked about the durango in the beginning was the fact I can go from either mid motor or rear motor, 3 or 4 gear, and also obviously run the motor plate on either side.
I own Raborn Racing Originals. It is a dirt oval company that was founded in 1991 originally doing oval conversions for the offroad cars of the day as well as building our own car, the Invencer. I'd run 3 gear mid motor with the spur gear on the right side. I'd also stiffen up your spring rates. The goal of dirt oval tuning is to have the equivalent amount of force on each wheel. Since you spend most of your time turning left and lots of time on throttle, lots of that weight gets shifted to the right and the rear. You stiffen the springs up on those sides to compensate. It won't be optimal for a straight line but you aren't in a straight line very often. The balancing act comes into play where you may find that if you hit the brakes the rear end swings around quickly so there's some experimenting to do. Your suspension will end up much stiffer than for offroad.
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Old 02-11-2016, 02:39 PM   #17335
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Trying something a little different, sorta a dex210 3.0. Actually came out better than I thought. I'll post up more pics with everything mounted.

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Old 02-11-2016, 09:53 PM   #17336
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[QUOTE=Shawn_S;14386939]Trying something a little different, sorta a dex210 3.0. Actually came out better than I thought. I'll post up more pics with everything mounted.

Looks good thus far. I just ordered a B5 battery brace to do something similar. Can't wait to see finished product.
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Old 02-11-2016, 11:04 PM   #17337
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Basically what I did was notch the side pods in two places. The main rail down the center, and then the diagonal rib from the main rear post (where that brace/motor cover/body post piece mounts) to the edge. The second trim, was just to allow the MM braces to mount there that rib was. I wasn't sure the rear-most spot for the battery stop would clearance with the motor in MM. So I put the braces sort of forward, like in the 1st pic. I then cut up the RM brace for the left/right battery stops.

With the braces back, and the battery all the way back to the posts, you can see in the 2nd pic just how close the battery is to the motor.







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Old 02-12-2016, 01:01 AM   #17338
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Originally Posted by Shawn_S View Post
Basically what I did was notch the side pods in two places. The main rail down the center, and then the diagonal rib from the main rear post (where that brace/motor cover/body post piece mounts) to the edge. The second trim, was just to allow the MM braces to mount there that rib was. I wasn't sure the rear-most spot for the battery stop would clearance with the motor in MM. So I put the braces sort of forward, like in the 1st pic. I then cut up the RM brace for the left/right battery stops.

With the braces back, and the battery all the way back to the posts, you can see in the 2nd pic just how close the battery is to the motor.







nice work, iwill copy you
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Old 02-12-2016, 05:25 AM   #17339
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Questions?? Gear Diff Washers

I will be converting to a gear diff shortly and have purchase a second hand unit, however it hasn't got the washers that go on the ends of planet gear shafts.

Does anybody know the size I need, googling has thrown up 8mm by 4mm by 0.3mm? I tried to dry assemble last night with some spare washers I had and they appear to be too thick - which pushes the planet gears together too much and therefore will not allow the output gear to fit correctly.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 02-12-2016, 05:35 AM   #17340
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Sooooo I have a question I kinda imagine what the answer is. If I am running MM3 I cannot move the rear shocks past the second hole in the tower? I believe it would be the same in MM4? I looked over and over the manual to see if I did something wrong but I am guessing that that's the deal.
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