WallyRC

I would highly recommend the McKune slipper pads. Around 10 bucks at Amain. MDR10016. Very nice fitment. I have a few pairs of the RCshox ones as well. But I had to modify them a bit to make them fit. The McKune ones fit all the Spurs I had from different manufactures without modification.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

Good info. I saw someone post that in the carpet offroad thread as well when I was inquiring about what tires to use on carpet. So I'll just stick with 2.2s for now. See if I can find some mounted primes or maybe I'll see about baking some of these tires off the rims. Big thing to me would be not destroying the insert if possible as I heard the acetone method even with fumes only (not soaking it in it) can.

Looking at wheels, I saw some of the "stock" AE wheels for a bit cheaper price, not sure how good they are though in comparison to the DE racing wheels though, anyone got opinions?

I did go ahead and order some new servos for all my personal race durango vehicles. The hitec's have been excellent to me in my 1/8s, but I always like the speed of the JR9100s that emerilnut now has and the SC1251MG while good, I do notice the diff.

So I decided to go with this across all three vehicles, and new no less which in general I haven't done in a long time. Wife even said go for it! (darn valentines day close by, Its a Trap!):

http://www.bigsquidrc.com/futaba-s9372sv-servo/



the specs should work across the board regardless what vehicle type I go with other than a 1/5 scale or some stupid heavy MT:

280oz / .07sec transit at 6V
341oz / 0.06sec transit at 7.4V

I think it should handle the dex210 wheels fine

Also, the time I had a really nice futaba servo I really enjoyed it, so figured why not again since I like the radio gear lol.

I'll probably dump the SC1251MG into the "loner" DEX210. Nothing wrong with the servo, just miss the speed feel.

WallyRC also contacted me and is sending out a set of the steering hubs, big thanks!

wyd

iTrader: (51)

Cain you won't have any problems with that servo from Futaba. I ran one in my crawler and one in my B5M. I actually bought it for my 1/8th last yer but never did run it so I kept the servo and sold the 1/8th buggy.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

good stuff.

Right now I am debating rear wheels. I see exotek saying there conversion can use losi wheels, AE style wheels, etc.

I have a chance to get a deal on some jconcepts wheels but the rear are there losi ones.

What will I notice if I get Losi rear wheels?

wyd

iTrader: (51)

The DE Racing rims I use are for B5, 22 series or Rb5. I ran the rims on my B5 and now my Durango. My buddy has borrowed mine on the Serpent SRX2 as well so the rears fit many brands.

prosport

iTrader: (21)

It definitely makes a loud scream noise, I think I'm gonna have to go through the transmission and figure it out. I tried a few things tonite that should have tightened up the slipper and it still did the same thing.

wyd

iTrader: (51)

Too me then it really sounds like the diff. When you take the diff out of your car and before you take the diff apart hold both diff outdrives with like an allen wrench and try to turn the center diff gear. If you can turn it its too loose. When you build your new diff and have it together keep tightening the diff til you can turn gear. Durango has a great video of how to build your diff. Watch that before you build your new one. It will save you a lot of headaches

ekt

iTrader: (4)

Here's the ball diff video that wyd was talking about

+ YouTube Video

Kremzeek

iTrader: (8)

This video might be helpful if you're trying to figure out if its your slipper or your diff.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fjiMNTmtynU

prosport

iTrader: (21)

Great video, so all I have to do to tighten the diff is to remove the driveshafts and put an allen wrench into the outdrives and tighten them? Sounds too easy lol.

Pistol123

No need to take the driveshaft out, just poke the allen wrench through from behind and turn the other wheel until you hear it click into the slot.

prosport

iTrader: (21)

Ok thank you!

Cain

iTrader: (294)

for the whole issue with when you assemble the diff case and you find binding in the transmission, did anyone notice that it was prevalent with a 3 gear setup versus a 4 gear?

I have basically 4 diff cases here, including one that is an older style version 1 case.

when I went to do my rebuild, mind you the first build I noticed some binding but figured it would free up as the gears seated, I went ahead and did various things to try and identify where exactly the binding was coming from.

From what I could tell using both the stock top shaft and the exotek version, ball diff versus 2 different gear diffs (I have this like tan color one, as going to all black a change or is this not a durango gear diff?), and trying different middle gear, it appears that the binding seems to happen due to how the middle gear interacts between the diff and the top shaft.

cases shut an screwed with only the ball diff and the top gear (so no middle gear), they spin freely,so no odd binding.

In addition to that, when I added in a 4 gear setup, no binding either?

This was across 4 different cases. So curious is there something about the gear that maybe it frees up after usage?

Outside of that, got my vehicle reassembled and installed the hobbywing V3.1 stock spec esc. very nice.

wyd

iTrader: (51)

I had two original DEX210's and now my V3 version. All of them seemed to bind up a little if I tightened the case too tight. I just made sure I used thread lock on the screws going into the motor plate and just tightened them up tikl snug. Once the thread lock dries you won't need to worry about them backing out and the tranny won't bind. If you do that you won't have any problems

Cain

iTrader: (294)

yeah that is what I have done in the past with 4 gear, but not the case this time with 3 gear as far as fixing anything. Its like there is a certain point when it "turns" that you can feel it "nick" something. I thought maybe something was out of round and hence causing the issue but I don't see anything. Heck, wonder if I should tighten it down and run it in alot and then loosen lol.

I'll run it in this weekend and see how it goes. I got that Mid Motor bulkhead thing from Exotek on the way so will take the case apart to mod it up again anyway.

exotek did write me back and say B5 wheels are the way to go as far as offset, etc. they should take that losi part down from there site on the 12mm hex setup or state whats the best.