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Old 01-27-2016, 01:04 PM   #17146
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Fred. If I would of won the lottery I would of asked you to design a new car!!!
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Old 01-27-2016, 01:05 PM   #17147
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Fred. If I would of won the lottery I would of asked you to design a new car!!!
I have one. It just only turns left!
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Old 01-27-2016, 01:14 PM   #17148
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I have one. It just only turns left!
That's right!!! I meant a new buggy.. Not oval... LOL!!!
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Old 01-27-2016, 06:03 PM   #17149
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As much as it sounds like I criticise this buggy, I actually really just want to make it perfect. I have no desire to tinker with other cars. One thing I generally don't mess with is the rear end of this car. It's fantastic.
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Old 01-27-2016, 08:54 PM   #17150
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As much as it sounds like I criticise this buggy, I actually really just want to make it perfect. I have no desire to tinker with other cars. One thing I generally don't mess with is the rear end of this car. It's fantastic.
Glad to hear it!!!
Fred, with your new indoor high bite track are you still running the HRC Block? I am too, have 2 mm spacer under the inner camber link and it's pretty smooth. May try 3mm next to see what it does??
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Old 01-27-2016, 10:06 PM   #17151
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Glad to hear it!!!
Fred, with your new indoor high bite track are you still running the HRC Block? I am too, have 2 mm spacer under the inner camber link and it's pretty smooth. May try 3mm next to see what it does??
I've never used the LRC block. On a high bite track you want to run a lower ride height. By moving the arm mounts down, you end up running a higher roll center per chassis ride height, hence the name of the block. However, at a low ride height you end up doing so with the chassis below arms level as measured from hinge pin to hinge pin. The force application point on the roll center goes to crap and your suspension loses control. Combine this with shocks that are nearly bottomed out or bottomed out in lean and there's no amount of adjustments that you can make to compensate for it. You'd want the LRC block on rougher dirt tracks. People have it backwards.

This is why I spend lots of time trying to correct things. If the geometry doesn't look right, tuning isn't going to do much. You'll end up trying everything and never getting it right. Unfortunately, my cars have more capability than my driving ability does!
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Old 01-27-2016, 11:21 PM   #17152
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Did that just bolt in?
Yes, the distance between the two arms/screws is exactly the same, as the dex210 one!
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Old 01-28-2016, 12:24 AM   #17153
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Two things I thought of. The plastic looks thick enough to just drill a hole in the left arm similar to the original Dex rack. Is the steering rack any higher? Can u still get the original servo and mount in? If you had an aluminum aftermarket on would be even stronger. ...

Or: in that last pick we could drill mounting holes right into the plastic to mount the servo flat and maybe grind away the other piece to put it back in...

Ohh my mind is spinning.
Thanks for the picks!!
Could work this way, too!?

The reason i was trying this mod was, that i wanted the servo down to the chassis, as low i can get.
I've bought some RPM universal servo mounts too and my thougts were, that i make a plate in between the two screws, or in my case two lock nuts, on the top and mount the servo on it, like a floating mount on TC car?
I have to grind some material off of those plastik side parts, to fit the servo in between.
May i find the time this upcomming weekend to do the servo mount, then i can post some pictures!
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Old 01-28-2016, 04:01 AM   #17154
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Default Chassis basic question?

I do have a basic question to those people, allready working with carbon fiber, as i want to make my own custom chassis for the dex210 out of carbon.

Many rc manufacturers have the option of an kit(standard) aluminum chassis and the option of an carbon chassis for more flex, but i do not belive, that a, lets say, 2.5 mm carbon plate does more flex, than an 2.5 mm aluminum plate, even its a 6065, or 7075 hard coated plate.
Everywhere i can read, on the website of carbon manufacturers, that it does have less flex, than aluminum!?

Does anyone work more often with cf and can explane/discribe that to me?


Thanks in advance and
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Old 01-28-2016, 08:59 AM   #17155
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Flex has to do with material thickness, not material. Ok it has a little to do with it but it's all based on the design. On carbon fiber, the carbon material has a grain direction to it. You can change the stiffness properties just by orienting the material in different directions. You can orient it for more flex side to side, front to back, or as rigid as possible. All with the same total thickness. The chassis for the car are 2.5mm or .098, which is thin. The aftermarket shock towers are anywhere from 3 to 4mm thick. On the carbon fiber plates that I have made, I orient the grain for max rigidity. I also have them laid up with a target of .115" thick. 3mm is .118 for reference. This results in a very rigid chassis. Add some side braces and it's not flexing. On high grip tracks, flex is BAD!!! Tuning with flex is a horrible idea today. On old soft and bumpy tracks, it can be used as an aid but everyone tuning with flex on modern tracks is doing it wrong.
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Old 01-28-2016, 09:53 AM   #17156
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curious, what if you tuned with flex but had some sort of shock absorber that you could use to tune it instead of relying on just the chassis itself?
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Old 01-28-2016, 10:07 AM   #17157
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You already have 4 of them. How many do you need?
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Old 01-28-2016, 11:07 AM   #17158
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You are right, that was me!
I had no time to finsh the servo mount yet, but will have some time at the weekend, so maybe can work on it!?

Here is a pic for fred, or other poeople, if he didn't see it before?
Where did you get those red shock spacers on your shock tower? Did you have some anodized?
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Old 01-28-2016, 11:25 AM   #17159
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Originally Posted by fredswain View Post
Flex has to do with material thickness, not material. Ok it has a little to do with it but it's all based on the design. On carbon fiber, the carbon material has a grain direction to it. You can change the stiffness properties just by orienting the material in different directions. You can orient it for more flex side to side, front to back, or as rigid as possible. All with the same total thickness. The chassis for the car are 2.5mm or .098, which is thin. The aftermarket shock towers are anywhere from 3 to 4mm thick. On the carbon fiber plates that I have made, I orient the grain for max rigidity. I also have them laid up with a target of .115" thick. 3mm is .118 for reference. This results in a very rigid chassis. Add some side braces and it's not flexing. On high grip tracks, flex is BAD!!! Tuning with flex is a horrible idea today. On old soft and bumpy tracks, it can be used as an aid but everyone tuning with flex on modern tracks is doing it wrong.
Hi fred,

I see what you mean!

Flex is that, what i dont want to have in the chassis, as you allready sayed often, therefore you have the supension.

I could get some 2.5 mm carbon, with 8 leyers and the direction would be 0/90, what do you think about that?
I was thinking about to use a 2 mm plate and screw it together with an 1 mm sheet and the plastic brace, so i have 3 mm complete chssis plate with the extra stiffener. I do think, that would be stiffen it up more too!?
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Old 01-28-2016, 11:32 AM   #17160
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Where did you get those red shock spacers on your shock tower? Did you have some anodized?
Actually i bought them incl. with my 210v1, i got for a real good price, second hand back 2-3 years allready, i do think that are tresrey, but not sure 100%?
There where many hop up parts comming with the car, as tresrey rear hubs, many carbon parts and the aluminum revolution design front and rear towers and brass weight parts, ....!
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