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Old 01-27-2016, 08:40 AM   #17131
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Originally Posted by Kremzeek View Post
Has anyone else looked at the setup sheet for the 210F? It looks like it has the same/similar RR hanger that Travis had on his car.

http://www.team-durango.com/pdf/setu...an%202016).pdf
yeah. Looking at the setup sheet and the manual, I am not seeing a clear breakdown of what the different pill inserts mean. May be worth discussing on the DEX210F thread and posting there what is found out. Heck, would be a cool way to get to use the alloy rear hubs again just put one pill, say zero, and go and just adjust on the the hanger the toe.
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Old 01-27-2016, 08:52 AM   #17132
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I saw the pics of Travis's car from the the Reedy Race and saw his front wing setup. Decided to print a picture of it and when I was at the hobby shop last night I messed around and put the front wing on. The only thing I can't tell in the picture is if he has some kind of angled spacer behind the wing. The front part of the wing angles down a little vs coming out straight. I ran it with the angle and didn't have any problems other than if you nose in the wing will hit first (his would also do the same). Took my car out on are clay indoor track that we didn't water in 2 weeks and is super dry compared to when we normally race and was able to run the same times I did when are track is wet (which is 3 to 5 tenths faster) so I was very pleased with my car and the front wing surely didn't hurt my car any. I have excellent steering and control on the straights and my low speed steering on are dusty track was excellent last night as I could really hug the corners. Going to leave the front wing setup on til we race on Sunday and see what kind of laps I turn. The new VRP pistons also feel really good in my car as well.
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Old 01-27-2016, 09:10 AM   #17133
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In my ongoing quest to find the correct amount of suspension up travel I've been using the truck front tower for a while with the 210v2 rear shocks on the front and white series springs. The handling is good but that's a lot of mass up high, not to mention a greater risk of breaking a tower in a crash. Going back to the shorter front shocks certainly alleviates some of the strength concerns but at the expense of full suspension up travel.

Since the 210 suspension is a carbon copy of the B4 geometry (which is the same as the B3 and now the B5), I decided to see if the B4 or B5 suffered from this same issue. They don't, which is weird. That really means that something is going on with the shocks. I took a set of Associated big bores and installed them on the front of my 210 and low and behold, it had enough up travel. I didn't however try them with bladders installed which is the only way I'll run my shocks but they do have more travel than the Durango shocks. Another thing I've noticed is that B5 steering hubs have no slop or play in them whatsoever. The Durango however do. I've also been fighting with bump steer on this car from day one. By the time I fix everything on this car to make me happy, it'll be an entirely different car.

I find the process a bit fun but at the same time frustrating. In the 80's I tried everything under the sun to make my RC10 do what I wanted. I finally just replaced it with a JRX2 and everything was right in the world. I wonder when I'll finally give in with this car?
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Old 01-27-2016, 10:47 AM   #17134
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Thanks, will check the bearings when I change to the gear diff. Will also swap the shocks around - if it's them it should start going right.

I think the zero wear on one output shaft and lots of wear on the other points to a diff problem but will check/rule out the other factors one by one.

My young son's and I are running three DEX210s and we have only gone through two spur gears (running too loose) and a fr carrier in 2 years of racing - tough little buggies.
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Old 01-27-2016, 11:37 AM   #17135
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Default New front shock tower

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Originally Posted by fredswain View Post
In my ongoing quest to find the correct amount of suspension up travel I've been using the truck front tower for a while with the 210v2 rear shocks on the front and white series springs. The handling is good but that's a lot of mass up high, not to mention a greater risk of breaking a tower in a crash. Going back to the shorter front shocks certainly alleviates some of the strength concerns but at the expense of full suspension up travel.

Since the 210 suspension is a carbon copy of the B4 geometry (which is the same as the B3 and now the B5), I decided to see if the B4 or B5 suffered from this same issue. They don't, which is weird. That really means that something is going on with the shocks. I took a set of Associated big bores and installed them on the front of my 210 and low and behold, it had enough up travel. I didn't however try them with bladders installed which is the only way I'll run my shocks but they do have more travel than the Durango shocks. Another thing I've noticed is that B5 steering hubs have no slop or play in them whatsoever. The Durango however do. I've also been fighting with bump steer on this car from day one. By the time I fix everything on this car to make me happy, it'll be an entirely different car.

I find the process a bit fun but at the same time frustrating. In the 80's I tried everything under the sun to make my RC10 do what I wanted. I finally just replaced it with a JRX2 and everything was right in the world. I wonder when I'll finally give in with this car?
Fred, I hear ya loud and clear. But I do love this car as well. What if somebody could design a new front shock tower: 4 mm higher than the v2, go with the 23 mm stroke and 44mm shaft. Instead of 21.5 mm stroke and 42.5mm shaft. We should gain roughly 3mm of uptravel if I calculate that correctly. Should still be able to use bladders. Maybe somebody know someone at diggity designs or has access to milling machine.

As for steering rack. I saw someone on here, I think Micholix bolted in the B5 rack directly. Just need to figure out how to mount servo.
Just some thoughts.
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Old 01-27-2016, 11:47 AM   #17136
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Fred, I hear ya loud and clear. But I do love this car as well. What if somebody could design a new front shock tower: 4 mm higher than the v2, go with the 23 mm stroke and 44mm shaft. Instead of 21.5 mm stroke and 42.5mm shaft. We should gain roughly 3mm of uptravel if I calculate that correctly. Should still be able to use bladders. Maybe somebody know someone at diggity designs or has access to milling machine.

As for steering rack. I saw someone on here, I think Micholix bolted in the B5 rack directly. Just need to figure out how to mount servo.
Just some thoughts.
You are right, that was me!
I had no time to finsh the servo mount yet, but will have some time at the weekend, so maybe can work on it!?

Here is a pic for fred, or other poeople, if he didn't see it before?
Attached Thumbnails
Durango DEX210 Thread-image.jpg  
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Old 01-27-2016, 11:49 AM   #17137
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... And one from the side!

Edit: it is now a fully ball raced steering assambling, with no bushins running in plastics, that was my point i wanted to do/ have!

Edit2: if someone is interrested in, i can do a little chart, what is needed for those change!?
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Last edited by micholix; 01-27-2016 at 11:59 AM.
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Old 01-27-2016, 12:31 PM   #17138
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Originally Posted by micholix View Post
... And one from the side!

Edit: it is now a fully ball raced steering assambling, with no bushins running in plastics, that was my point i wanted to do/ have!

Edit2: if someone is interrested in, i can do a little chart, what is needed for those change!?
That's awesome! I dig the way the rack fits in there!

I really like the way this thread has come around, a lot of good information and interaction on it!
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Old 01-27-2016, 12:44 PM   #17139
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I'll disasamble the front end on friday and post some pics and a list of the parts that are needed, ok?
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Old 01-27-2016, 01:03 PM   #17140
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The bump steer problem is from the fact that I can't get the outer ball stud up high enough, or conversely the inner down lower. What is the inner stud location height compared to the stock 210 rack? If it's lower, that's a good thing.

Although my frustrations continue, I did just go ahead and buy the Exotek rear bulkhead and top shaft.
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Old 01-27-2016, 01:21 PM   #17141
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Originally Posted by fredswain View Post
The bump steer problem is from the fact that I can't get the outer ball stud up high enough, or conversely the inner down lower. What is the inner stud location height compared to the stock 210 rack? If it's lower, that's a good thing.

Although my frustrations continue, I did just go ahead and buy the Exotek rear bulkhead and top shaft.
Yes, it is lower by about 3 mm, i think?
I can do a correct messurement and compare to the stock on friday.
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Old 01-27-2016, 01:42 PM   #17142
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That's funny Fred. I've had that in my shopping cart for a week or so. Waiting to snap the gear box. Then pull the trigger.
What do I think of a custom front shock tower?
I have been using the RDRP rack and it is lower which helps with bump steer. I like the looks of the B5. It looks even lower and further rearward. Shouldn't run into the springs.
If u look at the pictures of the plan b Chasis where the aluminum post in the front is, we could probably substitute that with a aluminum servo mount and mount the servo flat on the Chasis. Looks like it would be the right distance?? Or do a custom aluminum piece to mount the servo and the front brace.. All in one. Would be clean.
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Old 01-27-2016, 01:52 PM   #17143
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Actually, i found a picture in my gallery, when i started the conversion, without all the other front parts, may you can see it better!
Anyways, i now have a view more of those little bearings, do do a photo side by side of the original and the b5 steering!

Here is the pic i found for the moment:
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Old 01-27-2016, 01:54 PM   #17144
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Did that just bolt in?
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Old 01-27-2016, 02:02 PM   #17145
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Two things I thought of. The plastic looks thick enough to just drill a hole in the left arm similar to the original Dex rack. Is the steering rack any higher? Can u still get the original servo and mount in? If you had an aluminum aftermarket on would be even stronger. ...

Or: in that last pick we could drill mounting holes right into the plastic to mount the servo flat and maybe grind away the other piece to put it back in...

Ohh my mind is spinning.
Thanks for the picks!!
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