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Old 01-18-2016, 05:47 PM   #17041
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curious where are you seeing leaks exactly?
It leaks at the bottom. I have changed to new purple o-rings and also changed to aluminium bottom shocks cap but it still leaks. O-rings were coated with green slime and i am sure i had it build correctly and am not missing anything.
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Old 01-18-2016, 06:55 PM   #17042
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did you change all the parts that are part of the lower shock assembly? wondering if some if that "hat" or whatever its called could be tweaked?
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Old 01-18-2016, 09:23 PM   #17043
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Hello dex210 owners,

I decided now to make my own custom chassis for my 210 and i do have a question to you.
I wanted to do a custom chassis allready since 1 1/2 years, but never come further than some messurements and some drawings, because i was allways waiting for TD to come out with an chassis, with multiple battery configurations.

As i 'm still using an allmost complete original v1 car, just with some parts from the v2, i'm not 100% sure, what length for the chassis to go?
V2/v3 are using a +8mm chassis, compared to the original and after some search, i found out, the 210F must be a ~+11mm compared to the v1 one, so my question is, what length do you think, should be the best?
I think, a +8 would be a good middle as we don't have realy large tracks here and indoor carpet tracks are often tight and very technical.

What do you think?

I'm interrested in you thougths.

Thx in advance and
No-one?
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Old 01-19-2016, 01:36 AM   #17044
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It leaks at the bottom. I have changed to new purple o-rings and also changed to aluminium bottom shocks cap but it still leaks. O-rings were coated with green slime and i am sure i had it build correctly and am not missing anything.
And here I thought I was the only one! When I bought my 210, right out of the box with a fresh build the shocks leaked horribly, thought it may be just me. Then I bought a DEST210, and right out of the box with a fresh build, they also leaked horribly. I have built multiple brands of shocks through the years, Losi, Associated, Tamiya, as well as other brands and have never had this problem! The weird thing is, I also have a 410, a 2010 edition with the small bores and I never had a single issue with those. They use the exact same guides, O-rings and shock shafts that the Big bores do and they never leaked. the only thing different between the small bore and Big bore shocks is the internal bore for the piston size difference, the lower seal and guide assembly is the same. You can build the shocks fresh and pump them ten times afterwards and they will start to wick oil out of the seal hole onto the shock shafts. If you can figure out how to fix it, let me know! It would be nice if someone made machined guides for these shocks, maybe that would help or totally eliminate the issue.
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Old 01-19-2016, 03:14 AM   #17045
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I never had any problem with leaking on all of my TD Fat shocks.
What i do is, to countersink the plastic spacer between the o-rings a tiny bit at the inside hole, than put everything together with green slime per manual, but not fully tighten the lower shock cap, put some shock oil at the thread of the shock shaft and push the shaft in gently, than tighten the cap.
After tighening the lower cap, you can feel the gently friction from the o-rings.
Thats how i do, so nothing special.

Hope that helps!?
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Old 01-19-2016, 05:19 AM   #17046
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did you change all the parts that are part of the lower shock assembly? wondering if some if that "hat" or whatever its called could be tweaked?
Yes, i did changed everything new. I have almost gave up on looking for a solution. I think I am gonna rebuild it for one last time and just live with the fact that it leaks.

Oh, btw it only leaks at the rear.
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Old 01-19-2016, 07:51 AM   #17047
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hmm, would you say the leak is towards the oring / shaft area, or more towards the shock body and oring portion?

Maybe a batch batch of shock bodies?
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Old 01-19-2016, 12:00 PM   #17048
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No-one?
I think your right on. If most your tracks are tight technical, +8 would probably be good.
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Old 01-19-2016, 12:18 PM   #17049
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Heading to the hobby shop I work at and going to do some practicing tonight with my V3. Not going to change many things as my new pistons won't be here for another day or two so just mainly be some camber changes and then work on gearing/timing on my 17.5. Will be nice to actually get to practice as I hardly ever get to test anything other than race day and even then I normally get very little if any practice as I'm helping in the shop since we be averaging 120 to 165 the 6 weeks on are off road. Its a double edged sword as huge attendance is great but then even though I'm not working I do my part in helping out since my shop owner is so good to me.
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Old 01-19-2016, 12:51 PM   #17050
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what motor your running?
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Old 01-19-2016, 01:29 PM   #17051
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Wyd,
Are those the DE racing rims, are they B5's?
Thanks
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Old 01-20-2016, 06:10 AM   #17052
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Hey guys, I made up a page for the 210f in case anyone wants to chat it up about that car.
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Old 01-20-2016, 07:25 AM   #17053
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good stuff. will go check it out.

To be honest if it was possible to rock the dex210f for dirt and wheelers go going here, i'd be game to pick up both lol.

Hey question for your plan b guys, can you run square packs in the space provided? I am thinking yes, but curious from those who actually tried it.
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Old 01-20-2016, 11:25 AM   #17054
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WallyRC View Post
Wyd,
Are those the DE racing rims, are they B5's?
Thanks
Your correct. DE rims. Use them most of the time.
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Old 01-20-2016, 11:28 AM   #17055
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what motor your running?
I got my Revtech 24K figured out last night as I finally got some practice in. No overheating issues at all and can easily run 15 plus minutes and motor is still under 150 degrees and is fast so I'm very happy. I'm not a full blown hard core stock racer but for my car weighing in at 1646 grams its a little heavy vs are full on stock racers but yet my car is running times faster than all but 1 or 2 and that is just who drove in that heat so I'm super happy with my Durango.
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