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Old 01-14-2016, 01:15 PM   #17011
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I would have to sand the inserts a good amount to even get them close. I decided on my V3 to just run the stock hubs as the plastic inserts fit those nice and smoothly with no binding of the hinge pins.
hmm, I don't recall any binding on the pins on mine as I run the aluminum hubs as that what came with my first vehicle and I liked the bling lol.

I did however when I did my first tear down had to punch one out of the hub as it was stuck. But I think I did this with the front too for the plastic on plastic connection. Be cool if there was a way to make the inserts alloy and secured with a set screw setup of some kind that keys them together.

I think what I did to help was add some lubricant to the insert to keep it sliding well. I'll probably try that dry stuff I got here that I use on the durango 1/8 pivot balls.
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Old 01-14-2016, 02:27 PM   #17012
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hmm, I don't recall any binding on the pins on mine as I run the aluminum hubs as that what came with my first vehicle and I liked the bling lol.

I did however when I did my first tear down had to punch one out of the hub as it was stuck. But I think I did this with the front too for the plastic on plastic connection. Be cool if there was a way to make the inserts alloy and secured with a set screw setup of some kind that keys them together.

I think what I did to help was add some lubricant to the insert to keep it sliding well. I'll probably try that dry stuff I got here that I use on the durango 1/8 pivot balls.
I did stuff an insert in once and i lock my hinge so tight the arm wouldn't move up and down. I tried running a reamer thru and I could barely get it to go thru as it pinched the plastic insert. One day when I have nothing to do I will mess with them but for now I'm ok. I never had problem with stock hubs. Only put the alum on for the vertical ball stud setup but not a deal breaker for me.
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Old 01-14-2016, 02:51 PM   #17013
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Situation dependent. I generally prefer a ball diff, especially on low grip or dirt but there's a consistency problem with varying power levels on a ball diff. I generally have always run my diffs as loose as possible while not allowing them to slip at full throttle and even this is based on the surface being driven on. Let's say you have it set how you like it with a 17.5 motor. Let's say you decide to run mod and move to an 8.5 motor. Suddenly you'll slip that thing like crazy under power. You need to tighten it up to compensate. Suddenly you have a tighter diff. This may or may not be a bad thing in terms of performance and you may or may not notice it. This is something you never have to worry about with a gear diff. You could theoretically hit a point where you have lots of power and grip is so high that your diff will slip even if tightened all the way down. Keep in mind the tighter the diff, the faster it'll wear out and need to be rebuilt.

A gear diff is simple. It's setting doesn't generally change until you change it. Rebuilds are farther apart. The downside is that making changes is more of a headache as you need to remove the diff, take it apart, and rebuild it just to try a different weight oil. Once you've found the sweet spot, you're good but it may take longer to figure out. A ball diff is a quick adjustment here but as the balls wear your setting will change.

An issue with a gear diff is that you could face a situation where you need to run a fairly heavy oil in order to avoid diffing out in corners when the inside rear wheel is unloaded. A thicker oil will slow down the diff reaction to wheel speed bias and may hurt your cornering though so it's a balancing act. It might not be an issue at all.

There's no right or wrong here. It's all a trade off and personal preference. For high grip I'm probably going to switch over to a gear diff soon to see how it works. I've run a ball up to this point.
Quick question on what you think the plastic internals do to the resistance. If you go from metal to plastic do u think oil viscosity should go up or down to be the same?

Also I hear some people running 2 gears instead of 4 to decrease resistance?? Thoughts??

Thanks

Last edited by WallyRC; 01-14-2016 at 02:54 PM. Reason: Spelling grammar correction
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Old 01-14-2016, 03:20 PM   #17014
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The reason people are running plastic planetary gears was to hold weight and hence rotating mass down. That would also be why people are running only 2 vs 4 internal planetary gears. Running fewer planetary gears and/or plastic gears will reduce the overall strength of the system. Where that breaking point is, is unknown. You would most certainly need to go to a thicker oil with fewer gears to achieve the equivalent diff action. The fewer the gears, the quicker the wear to those gears which of course also means the quicker they fail.

for a 17.5 class, fewer gears or plastic gears is probably fine. Could you run 2 plastic gears and get away with it? Don't know. One way to find out! For a mod class with much more power, I'd probably stick with 4 metal gears. A fast car that can't finish a race due to breakage isn't going to do all that well.
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Old 01-14-2016, 05:39 PM   #17015
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I run a 6.5 on high grip carpet with the plastic gears in the diff and have yet to see any issues with running them. I pull them out and inspect them and their has been almost no wear on them either. I would say from the abuse I put in the plastic gears in both my 210 and my 410 the are very durable.

From a resistance side of things, I didn't really notice a difference switching from metal to plastic. The only benefit is saving that small amount of rotating mass that would probably only be felt in the stock class.
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Old 01-14-2016, 06:26 PM   #17016
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Good info all around, thanks guys.
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Old 01-14-2016, 07:13 PM   #17017
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The rtr gear diff has 2 gears instead of 4. 7k feels the same as 5k in my 13.5 stock class rides.

However powered by an 8.5 mod motor caused the 2 gear styled diff to diff out down the straight and generally be evil handling.
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Old 01-15-2016, 07:52 AM   #17018
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Originally Posted by wyd View Post
I did stuff an insert in once and i lock my hinge so tight the arm wouldn't move up and down. I tried running a reamer thru and I could barely get it to go thru as it pinched the plastic insert. One day when I have nothing to do I will mess with them but for now I'm ok. I never had problem with stock hubs. Only put the alum on for the vertical ball stud setup but not a deal breaker for me.
Funny I should have said knock on wood lol.

Went through my rebuild with the plan b chassis and got to the rear hubs and whammo had one hub that decided the insert was part of it. I am not sure if its the inserts themselves as I did try another but I got to the point and said screw it and put on the stocker plastic.

Also, I wonder if the body mounting setup for the chassis could be slightly different on the rear. seems like you could almost run a body post of some sort on the pivot ball / graphite chassis peice connection that connects to the transmission case.

Also, as a side thing, anyone has a tip on securing the front of the body without using body clips with the plan b chassis. Its like a REAL pain to get a body clip in there with the shocks kind of in the way.

All in all though, happy with my purchase!

she is all together however, took the best parts or at least what I liked from my previous dex210 and combined that with the dex210v2s I got in and have my vehicle all ready to go.

Looking at the plan b chassis, its a really nice piece of machining. the only issue I had and I'll let them know is that when going to fit the "insert" that is almost under the servo where you can add weight, I couldn't get an insert to fit. It was like it was cut too small. At first I thought it was my TD weighted insert, but I pulled it and put it on the v2 chassis, no issues, same with the plastic one, no issues.

So I broke out the trusty dremel and opened it up a bit, wasn't much, and then it dropped in.

I thought of using the weighted front bulkhead I have here too (its cool you can use old or new style bulkheads unlike say the dime plastic chassis) but decided to just start with the weight in question.

I ended up putting the following on:

- Rear Aluminum shock caps (only had rears)
- Rear exotek alloy shock lower cups
- The steel upper shock mounts front and rear
- Lunsford titanium turnbuckles and the ballstuds I had for them
- Exotek slipper eliminator
- exotek lightweight topshaft
- alloy 14mm hexes
- Rear graphite shock tower (not sure the brand)
- Plastic gears for gear diff
- lightweight diff outdrives
- Rear mid motor tresrey weight
- Tresrey graphite steering link plate
- 3 gear diff

I did notice on my assembly I was getting that diff case binding issue I remember hearing about, so I am going to go and take a look and see what was the remedy for it.

My only real question is this, I want to use the lunsford link setup I have, but different ball studs like i have now. probably 1/3 of the studs I have don't however have a 2mm hex on them. The others do but I am not sure what brand studs these are that work with the lunsford cups. Any ideas on what I can order?

Tomorrow is the race date, indoor carpet, gonna try a a modified dino indoor setup that worked excellent last year, however was 4 gear.
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Last edited by Cain; 01-15-2016 at 08:03 AM.
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Old 01-15-2016, 08:01 AM   #17019
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Cain I feel for you. As much as they cost they should have better fit but the finish is awesome. Good luck this weekend.

I just ordered some of those Vision Racing pistons that JP Richards ran at CRCRC this weekend. Pretty trick looking from the website. A little expensive but what the hell if in the end my Durango works as good or better than my B5M then that is cool with me. Hate running the same as everyone else so the Durango is a nice change for me. I really like running something not as main stream and especailly when it works. Once I get it all wired and everything done neatly on it I will get a picture posted.
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Old 01-15-2016, 10:22 AM   #17020
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cool looking forward to it.

Yeah its a shame I like how they hubs look. Maybe I just set them up as "zeros" and do any toe adjustments on the block ...
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Old 01-15-2016, 10:56 AM   #17021
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Hello dex210 owners,

I decided now to make my own custom chassis for my 210 and i do have a question to you.
I wanted to do a custom chassis allready since 1 1/2 years, but never come further than some messurements and some drawings, because i was allways waiting for TD to come out with an chassis, with multiple battery configurations.

As i 'm still using an allmost complete original v1 car, just with some parts from the v2, i'm not 100% sure, what length for the chassis to go?
V2/v3 are using a +8mm chassis, compared to the original and after some search, i found out, the 210F must be a ~+11mm compared to the v1 one, so my question is, what length do you think, should be the best?
I think, a +8 would be a good middle as we don't have realy large tracks here and indoor carpet tracks are often tight and very technical.

What do you think?

I'm interrested in you thougths.

Thx in advance and
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Old 01-15-2016, 11:51 AM   #17022
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Cain,
I believe Lunsford cups are 4.8mm. Many companies make these. Some have the nut at the base instead of hex on top. Anything that is 4.8 will work. Kyosho, HPI, Losi..

Wyd,
I like being odd man out as well and racing something different. Everybody at my track has B5's and they all copy each other. Love to tune and figure it out myself.
Go Team Durango. This car was so far ahead of itself. Losi and associated are just catching up.
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Old 01-15-2016, 12:32 PM   #17023
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Also, as a side thing, anyone has a tip on securing the front of the body without using body clips with the plan b chassis. Its like a REAL pain to get a body clip in there with the shocks kind of in the way.
I'm using velcro. I put it on the front bulkhead, right in front of the body mount.
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Old 01-15-2016, 12:59 PM   #17024
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I'm using velcro. I put it on the front bulkhead, right in front of the body mount.
I second that. Works great.
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Old 01-15-2016, 01:56 PM   #17025
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Cain,
I believe Lunsford cups are 4.8mm. Many companies make these. Some have the nut at the base instead of hex on top. Anything that is 4.8 will work. Kyosho, HPI, Losi..
Thanks! Any particular one you recommend ? I think I had some losi's identified in the past but lost the link.

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I'm using velcro. I put it on the front bulkhead, right in front of the body mount.
Cool, I'll give that a look. I have one of those that has the body mount shaved down could use that.

that whole pin setup there is just rediculous. a twisty nut would have been better if you had to do it.
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