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Old 01-13-2016, 12:23 PM   #16996
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Originally Posted by DaTaz View Post
I tried quickly aluminium hubs on my V1 because stock parts were really too easy to break on landings. And then, my second V1 (one is MM for carpet, the other is RM for dirt) got alu hubs, then my DEST... And no more rear hubs breaking. Are V2 and V3 parts stronger?
I have only ever broke 1x v1 Rear Hub have Alloy Exotek on my Dex210 now, but have Plastic on my Dest210 with no issue's, I also always put the longer Ballstud through and a nut as well as 2x grub screw's either side the ball stud in the holes to give it more strength.


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Originally Posted by wyd View Post
Very nicely done. I ran my esc in front of the battery and my receiver on the right side pod. Not 100% if that is where I will keep mine or not but like the extra weight up front with my shorty servo.

Think I will move my shocks around to the rear of the car as well so I can use more adjustments on my shock tower. Do I need to do anything other than flip the a arms around and the hubs?
I'm about to test Rear shock mounting on my 210, if you have v1 arms just flip them around or drill a hole in the back to mount the shocks you shouldn't have to flip hubs. V2 arms already have the holes.

I run my ESC's in the side pod makes wiring very neat, I had run my Esc's in front of battery in the past and honestly I couldn't notice any difference not Pro enough
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Old 01-13-2016, 12:28 PM   #16997
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I'm about to test Rear shock mounting on my 210, if you have v1 arms just flip them around or drill a hole in the back to mount the shocks you shouldn't have to flip hubs. V2 arms already have the holes.
I was wondering if mounting the shocks behind the arm was possible on the V1. And I was just thinking, "what if I switch the sides the A-arms are mounted? "
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Old 01-13-2016, 01:10 PM   #16998
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I was wondering if mounting the shocks behind the arm was possible on the V1. And I was just thinking, "what if I switch the sides the A-arms are mounted? "
It does work it will change the angle a little bit of the arms, I think off memory it reduces droop on the v1 chassis cause it makes contact with chassis but not on the Type B 's and v2 chassis.

If you cant get a v2 rear arm set, I would drill a hole in the arm, but swapping will work as well.
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Old 01-13-2016, 01:46 PM   #16999
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Originally Posted by Pittster View Post
It does work it will change the angle a little bit of the arms, I think off memory it reduces droop on the v1 chassis cause it makes contact with chassis but not on the Type B 's and v2 chassis.

If you cant get a v2 rear arm set, I would drill a hole in the arm, but swapping will work as well.
On my dex210 v1. I used to run my arms around backwards and worked good, but it changed the geometry of the car. I only just changed them back around to see how they work.
But when they break have a spare set of type b arms to replace them with. (Don't know were ill put the shocks after though)
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Old 01-13-2016, 03:58 PM   #17000
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Just an FYI for those that like to look at setups. JP RICHARDS posted his set up under Dex210v3 in Petitrc from this last weekends race.

Fred, not that I am one that copies setups. We should all balance our own cars with our electronics.
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Old 01-13-2016, 07:36 PM   #17001
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Need help trying to decide which mm gear set up to run 3or4 mainly dirt surface..
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Old 01-13-2016, 09:49 PM   #17002
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Originally Posted by offroader47 View Post
On my dex210 v1. I used to run my arms around backwards and worked good, but it changed the geometry of the car. I only just changed them back around to see how they work.
But when they break have a spare set of type b arms to replace them with. (Don't know were ill put the shocks after though)
Yup. I realized that tonight as I was putting my car back together. If you switch the arms, you now have to counter the fact that the natural toe will be 3* toe out.
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Old 01-13-2016, 10:42 PM   #17003
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Originally Posted by Iggy 102 View Post
Need help trying to decide which mm gear set up to run 3or4 mainly dirt surface..
That question will probably open up a whole can of worms. I will give you my opinion for what it is worth. I have tried both on an indoor dirt track. Med to high bite track.
4 gear gives you a little more forward bite but is much more sensitive to throttle and brake. Weight transfers forward and back are more abrubt. I had hard time controlling the rear on braking and some push on throttle.
3 gear is smoother and less twitchy. Can power a little harder into and out of corners. Easier to control in air. Wouldn't dive or nose up to easily. I prefer 3 gear.
Good luck.
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Old 01-14-2016, 10:06 AM   #17004
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Originally Posted by WallyRC View Post
That question will probably open up a whole can of worms. I will give you my opinion for what it is worth. I have tried both on an indoor dirt track. Med to high bite track.
4 gear gives you a little more forward bite but is much more sensitive to throttle and brake. Weight transfers forward and back are more abrubt. I had hard time controlling the rear on braking and some push on throttle.
3 gear is smoother and less twitchy. Can power a little harder into and out of corners. Easier to control in air. Wouldn't dive or nose up to easily. I prefer 3 gear.
Good luck.
I said this exact same thing a few years ago when mid motor was just starting to get popular. It's the whole reason I got rid of my Atomic Carbon Cr2 (4 gear mm) and my X-Factory X-6^2 (4 gear mm). I hated the way the 4 gear transferred weight. Back then everyone was saying that 4 gear mm was necessary to make mm work properly, something that X-Factory still holds as necessary. I argued that 4 gear was a bandaid to compensate for the fact that there wasn't enough weight on the rear wheels. I ordered an old X-Factory 3 gear box from X-Factory, against their warnings that it would suck. I also added rear weight and suddenly the car drove so much nicer and more predictable. Like 3 gear rear motor but with a different weight balance. It was easy and on power steering was improved. I sold that car because there were other things that I didn't like about the car, things that going to the X-6^3 wouldn't fix. I sold the Cr2 because the front end rake of 30 is too much for modern high grip tracks and on power steering suffers.

The 210 gave me the options that I wanted. It had 3 gear mm and if grip got low enough I could go back to rm3. I don't like 4 gear anywhere whether in mid or rear motor. If I can't make mm3 work, it goes back to rm3.

Grip has increased here in the past couple of years. Our outdoor dirt track is now gone and a new indoor high grip clay track is here. The amount of rear weight necessary to make mm work is far lower now. To me that's what it really comes down to, weight on the drive wheels. You either need more or less of it regardless of track style but motor rotation direction in relation to the chassis should always stay the same. If you are running mid motor and find that you can't get enough rear grip, switch back to rear motor. Properly tuned, rear motor performs very well, even on high grip.
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Old 01-14-2016, 10:33 AM   #17005
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Fred, I realize this may open a different can of worms, but what are your views of gear vs ball diff?
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Old 01-14-2016, 11:58 AM   #17006
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Fred, I realize this may open a different can of worms, but what are your views of gear vs ball diff?
I second that..... Thanks in advance
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Old 01-14-2016, 12:05 PM   #17007
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Situation dependent. I generally prefer a ball diff, especially on low grip or dirt but there's a consistency problem with varying power levels on a ball diff. I generally have always run my diffs as loose as possible while not allowing them to slip at full throttle and even this is based on the surface being driven on. Let's say you have it set how you like it with a 17.5 motor. Let's say you decide to run mod and move to an 8.5 motor. Suddenly you'll slip that thing like crazy under power. You need to tighten it up to compensate. Suddenly you have a tighter diff. This may or may not be a bad thing in terms of performance and you may or may not notice it. This is something you never have to worry about with a gear diff. You could theoretically hit a point where you have lots of power and grip is so high that your diff will slip even if tightened all the way down. Keep in mind the tighter the diff, the faster it'll wear out and need to be rebuilt.

A gear diff is simple. It's setting doesn't generally change until you change it. Rebuilds are farther apart. The downside is that making changes is more of a headache as you need to remove the diff, take it apart, and rebuild it just to try a different weight oil. Once you've found the sweet spot, you're good but it may take longer to figure out. A ball diff is a quick adjustment here but as the balls wear your setting will change.

An issue with a gear diff is that you could face a situation where you need to run a fairly heavy oil in order to avoid diffing out in corners when the inside rear wheel is unloaded. A thicker oil will slow down the diff reaction to wheel speed bias and may hurt your cornering though so it's a balancing act. It might not be an issue at all.

There's no right or wrong here. It's all a trade off and personal preference. For high grip I'm probably going to switch over to a gear diff soon to see how it works. I've run a ball up to this point.
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Old 01-14-2016, 12:08 PM   #17008
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Originally Posted by Kremzeek View Post
I thought I was the only one that hated the aluminum hubs. I'd love to hear if someone has a trick to get the inserts out without destroying them.
I would have to sand the inserts a good amount to even get them close. I decided on my V3 to just run the stock hubs as the plastic inserts fit those nice and smoothly with no binding of the hinge pins.
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Old 01-14-2016, 12:09 PM   #17009
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good info on the gear choices. I think I am going to build mine MM3
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Old 01-14-2016, 12:12 PM   #17010
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Originally Posted by WallyRC View Post
That question will probably open up a whole can of worms. I will give you my opinion for what it is worth. I have tried both on an indoor dirt track. Med to high bite track.
4 gear gives you a little more forward bite but is much more sensitive to throttle and brake. Weight transfers forward and back are more abrubt. I had hard time controlling the rear on braking and some push on throttle.
3 gear is smoother and less twitchy. Can power a little harder into and out of corners. Easier to control in air. Wouldn't dive or nose up to easily. I prefer 3 gear.
Good luck.
I built my new V3 with the 3 gear MM configuration. The little test run I did make leads me to believe that I made the right choice as the car felt really good.
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