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Old 09-06-2015, 05:22 AM   #16486
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Hey Fred.... Sorry if it comes across as me busting your balls...my apologies.. Sometimes we all forget this is a hobby and part if that is tinkering and thinking outside the box. Other than the Exotek 12mm rear hex has anyone tried a different brand?
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Old 09-06-2015, 08:25 AM   #16487
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kerby: thanks for the heads up on B5 front spindle. I will check that out.
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Old 09-06-2015, 08:36 AM   #16488
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No problem...perfect fit, no shimming and way cheaper than the kyosho mod
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Old 09-07-2015, 04:22 AM   #16489
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Hi and again a question. What weight-suggestions do you have for the Dingo?
I am running on carpet track outside. Grip is medium. MM3.
During my overhauling I pulled out 110 gram of weight. Next race will be at the Weekend.
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Old 09-07-2015, 05:29 AM   #16490
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Originally Posted by fredswain View Post
The shape of the arms actually has absolutely nothing to do with handling, as so many somehow believe. Gullwing arms don't give better cornering or vice versa. As you pointed out, ground clearance is one potentially affected aspect. The most important thing that shape does involved shock mounting locations. Draw an imaginary line from the inner hinge pin to the outer hinge pin. With a straight arm, the shock mounts somewhere on this line. With a gullwing arm, the shock mounts somewhere below it.

Durango didn't change the shock tower mounting points with the change in arms. Draw an imaginary line between the inner hinge pin and the shock mount location on the arm. Now draw an imaginary line through the center of the shock from mount point to mount point. You'll see that for the exact same location on the shock tower, the angle on the gullwing arm is greater. That's less leverage than on the straight arm. Associated figured this out with the B5. The straight arms use a tower that is slightly taller and narrower while the gullwing arms use a tower that is slightly wider and lower. They maintain the same shocks. The intent was never to mix and match as a tuning feature. It was all about fundamental geometry. The reason these different towers need to be used with different arms has to do with that angle between the imaginary lines from the inner hinge pin to shock mounting point vs the line through the shocks. With the proper arm and tower combination, two different cars with each setup will maintain the same equivalent shock angle and hence leverage. The only difference to handling coming from the fact that the gullwing arm equipped car has shocks that are mounted slightly lower but the upper part of the shocks are slightly farther out. By contrast, the straight arm car has the shocks mounted slightly higher but the tops are slightly closer in. That slight change in center of gravity of the shocks based on their location is the only thing that has any effect on handling. The rest is a placebo effect.

When Durango designed the 210, they copied the geometry of the B4. Even the prototype cars used the B4 suspension components. The shapes changed for production but the 210 has an Associated derived suspension geometry. A problem happened at the front end with the V1. The front arms became gullwing, following the lead of the then brand new 22 but taking the shape to more of an extreme. The shock tower shape was never changed to compensate as Associated did later on the B5. It should have been. When the V2 came out, the B4 geometry was restored but the shocks were just made shorter to account for the length difference between the mounting points. Durango and Associated shocks aren't quite the same length though so travel is slightly effected. The shock tower should have been lower and wider with the V1 than it was. The V2 tower should have been slightly taller and the original shocks maintained. My solution to the problem was to use the DESC front tower and longer shocks. This setup actually gives the perfect amount of travel and at the perfect angle to the arms.
BTW they did change the shocks for v2,, shorter shaft and body.
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Old 09-07-2015, 09:37 AM   #16491
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Yes they did. I removed them. I'd have rather seen them leave the V1 front shocks but provide a taller front tower. Neither car version has enough up travel in the front. Only the V1 has enough in the rear.
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Old 09-07-2015, 05:15 PM   #16492
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Well I need to confess I made a stupid mistake. My spring problem was because I let the bump stops get under the spring cups making my springs seem to long. Discovered it at the track today, now everything is fine with the springs. Big thanks to all the people on this part of the forum for all the help and advice.
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Old 09-09-2015, 02:39 PM   #16493
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Originally Posted by fredswain View Post
Yes they did. I removed them. I'd have rather seen them leave the V1 front shocks but provide a taller front tower. Neither car version has enough up travel in the front. Only the V1 has enough in the rear.
That makes me think back to those days when the Masami had those really extra long front shocks on the RC10 stealth car. Boy did that thing have travel. Tracks are getting so smooth that manufacturers are going back to shorter shocks.
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Old 09-09-2015, 02:41 PM   #16494
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Originally Posted by windstar View Post
Hi and again a question. What weight-suggestions do you have for the Dingo?
I am running on carpet track outside. Grip is medium. MM3.
During my overhauling I pulled out 110 gram of weight. Next race will be at the Weekend.
Where did you remove that much weight from?

Whats the total weight of your 210 now?
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Old 09-10-2015, 12:28 AM   #16495
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The weight now is 1680 gram, I could lose a Little more by using Short batteries.

I did take out 30 gram downunder the servo, 65 in the very front (Suspension Mount?) and in the very back 18 gram (Suspension Mount).
Yesterday I was checking the Buggy on the track and it felt good. Maybe a Little "lose" in the front when there are to much Little bumps of the carpet. This is just in one Corner when I don't be on the right line. Beside that, I am driving 13.5 Motor, blinky.
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Old 09-12-2015, 03:52 PM   #16496
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Have a dex210v2 that I am needing a new body for. Does the td402014 fit the v2?

Thanks.
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Old 09-12-2015, 05:05 PM   #16497
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According to TDs website, yes
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Old 09-12-2015, 08:44 PM   #16498
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Originally Posted by Jeff Werner View Post
Have a dex210v2 that I am needing a new body for. Does the td402014 fit the v2?

Thanks.
TD402014 is for the v1 chassis. For the v2, either TD402031 or TD402012.
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Old 09-15-2015, 05:59 AM   #16499
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Should I convert my 210 to front hexes for a cost of about 45 dollars, or keep buying Durango front wheels for about 5.25 dollars a pair. Already have the rear converted to 12mm hex. If I change the front then the 210 can use same wheels as my B5m .

thanks
I will Change to the Exotek 12mm Titanium Front Axels. About 22$.
http://www.exotekracing.com/dex210-1...-axles-1-pair/

For the rear I will use this Hex-Set (13$):

http://www.exotekracing.com/dex210-410-12mm-hex-set-2/
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Old 09-15-2015, 05:05 PM   #16500
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Anyone race on indoor carpet? I tried a couple times last winter and this time I will do a full change-over for my outdoor set-up.

Anyone have any ballpark ideas on what pinions and spurs I may need?

Pinions for:

1) The SCT has a 17.5 blinky class so I will do that

And Pinion gearings for:

The ST and buggy classes run a 13.5 blinky / open 17.5 class (it's the same class - they run against each other). Any idea on the gearing options for these

2) 13.5 blinky

or my other option

3) 17.5 open
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