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Old 02-24-2015, 09:02 PM   #16111
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hi iceman got a few more pic's I looking for some ideas that suit my painting ability and that looks pretty good what sort of speedy and motor did you put in it?

Cheers
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Old 02-24-2015, 09:12 PM   #16112
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After opinions on some motors
looking at the following options for the dex
LRP Flow speedy with one of the following motor's (all are preloved but in good cond d3.5 almost new)
Trinity D3.5 17.5
Orion vst2 pro 17.5
Rev tech kill shot beast 17.5 (high torque)

I will only be racing at local club in stock class so non ROAR should be fine
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Old 02-24-2015, 09:35 PM   #16113
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Originally Posted by sbv20j View Post
After opinions on some motors
looking at the following options for the dex
LRP Flow speedy with one of the following motor's (all are preloved but in good cond d3.5 almost new)
Trinity D3.5 17.5
Orion vst2 pro 17.5
Rev tech kill shot beast 17.5 (high torque)

I will only be racing at local club in stock class so non ROAR should be fine
Im running the SP Reventon S esc with 17.5r v3.0 and its been reliable and fast. I would get that or the d3
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Old 02-24-2015, 09:51 PM   #16114
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Thanks I was leaning towards the d3.5
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Old 02-24-2015, 11:20 PM   #16115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbv20j View Post
After opinions on some motors
looking at the following options for the dex
LRP Flow speedy with one of the following motor's (all are preloved but in good cond d3.5 almost new)
Trinity D3.5 17.5
Orion vst2 pro 17.5
Rev tech kill shot beast 17.5 (high torque)

I will only be racing at local club in stock class so non ROAR should be fine
If you are looking for a stock motor. I would look at a Trinity D4, or ORCA 17.5 With a 12.5mm rotor.
Or you can look at ones from Team Powers, or Shurr Speed with upgraded rotors and ceramics. They are either ORCA or D4 based cans.
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Old 02-24-2015, 11:24 PM   #16116
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Need some advice. Rebuilt the tranny from 3 gear back to 4 gear MM and I've noticed once the screws are tightend into the motor plate the tranny binds up a bit. If I loosen the screws it gets better but only slightly. Opened up the gearbox again to make sure nothing was binding and it seems good. Everything spins freely it's only when clamped down it seems to move stiffly for lack of a better term. Any ideas would be helpful.
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Old 02-24-2015, 11:52 PM   #16117
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Originally Posted by Laker67 View Post
Im not running any shims under the rear camber link in the rear. So just to be clear, I shouldn't have any under the link or I should? And I'll give the stiffer rear spring a try. I went really light on the car because I ran another track where its med/high bite. I'm also running the exotek FR suspension hanger. I was only running the red shim under the block but since changed it to the black shim. To be honest though, I don't really know what degree of anti-squat that changes it to. the directions aren't very clear.
I normally don't run any shims on the rear inner camber link.
More antisquat gives you more on power traction, while less antisquat gives you more off power traction or side bite. Not sure about the black or red shims.

Are you running LRC or HRC blocks?
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Old 02-24-2015, 11:53 PM   #16118
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Originally Posted by likea45 View Post
Need some advice. Rebuilt the tranny from 3 gear back to 4 gear MM and I've noticed once the screws are tightend into the motor plate the tranny binds up a bit. If I loosen the screws it gets better but only slightly. Opened up the gearbox again to make sure nothing was binding and it seems good. Everything spins freely it's only when clamped down it seems to move stiffly for lack of a better term. Any ideas would be helpful.
Check the spacer on the layshaft. Either it needs to be filed more or grinded down or shimmed with spacers. It depends on the gearbocx
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Old 02-25-2015, 06:49 AM   #16119
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Originally Posted by sbv20j View Post
hi iceman got a few more pic's I looking for some ideas that suit my painting ability and that looks pretty good what sort of speedy and motor did you put in it?

Cheers
It was a basic paint job pretty easy since I was using a rattle can. Not bad since I haven't painted one of these in 25 years!
I went with the D3.5 certified since my local track doesn't go by ROAR rules. I went with the speed passion R series(wanted to do adjustments from the phone)
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Old 02-25-2015, 06:50 AM   #16120
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Can't figure out how to add more then 1 pic! Sorry
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Old 02-25-2015, 06:53 AM   #16121
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There's one for $75 off eBay still I believe
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Old 02-25-2015, 06:54 AM   #16122
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Originally Posted by 71schaeffer View Post
Im running the SP Reventon S esc with 17.5r v3.0 and its been reliable and fast. I would get that or the d3
I was looking at the SP v3 mmm series as a backup motor how do you like your combo?
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Old 02-25-2015, 08:59 AM   #16123
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I'm also running the exotek FR suspension hanger. I was only running the red shim under the block but since changed it to the black shim. To be honest though, I don't really know what degree of anti-squat that changes it to. the directions aren't very clear.
You have 3 parts. You have the yellow block itself, a black shim and a red shim. Where it gets confusing is knowing that it's different if you are running the rear in HRC or LRC configuration.

Using the yellow block alone in LRC gives you 0 rear kick. Using it and the red shim in LRC gives you 1.5 rear kick. Using the yellow block and the black shim gives you 3 rear kick and if you could physically fit both the red and black shims in there together you'd get 4.5 rear kick.

In HRC mode, the yellow rear block plus the black shim gives you 0 rear kick. Using the red and black shims would give you 1.5 rear kick.

All options give you 3 rear inboard toe.

I personally never run any rear kick in MM3 mode but I would run some in MM4 if I ever ran MM4.
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Old 02-25-2015, 10:18 AM   #16124
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I'm running the stock RR -2 aluminum block, is that the HRC? If it is the HRC, and I was running just the red shim under the block, what would that give me? I just switched it over to the black shim on its own but haven't tried it yet.
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Old 02-25-2015, 11:16 AM   #16125
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You are running LRC so you went from 1.5 rear kick to 3.
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